[EaRich]

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Hello Herbie circle.  I "discovered" is site about a week ago and I have to say I'm pretty excited because I think I'm at the right place to finally have an update solution to replacing the feet on my old Pioneer PL 560 turntable.  It is a direct drive TT and I've been searching, on and off for over a decade trying to find replacement feet that matched the original ones.   Then I thought,  why not look for some up to date vibration technology to get rid of the rumble.
Let me first say that until about 3 years ago I would not have had any focus on "vibration control" (other than turntable issues). That was until I listened to a Before and After of some high-end stereo amps using Stillpoints - I was convinced right then and there that controlling vibrations had a positive outcome on the final sound coming out of the speaker. BUT, I couldn't go for the price of focusing on that solution.  Anyway,  I have three areas that need vibration solutions:

My PL 560 TT will be sitting on a  just purchased  system rack, the details of the rack are at the top url).  I said a post somewhere about your product and a Ikea bamboo board, so that's what I want to do...what do you think?

I will come back later about vibration solutions for my rack and equipment for my main stereo system (l do intend to have IKEA bamboo boards on each shelf,  unless you say otherwise).

And then, I have my current system that I will give you details about later for your suggestions.  Right I just like to know if my turntable will be happy with some of your products on an Ikea bamboo board, on my new rack?  Thanks in advance.  Earl

[EaRich]

http://www.vinylengine.com/images/model/pioneer_pl-560.jpg


BTW, Here is some info about my turntable. ..

Description
The Pioneer PL-560 is an automatic, direct drive turntable with the same drive and metered speed control as the PL-630.

The Hall DC drive motor is supplemented with an independent second motor (warren motor) which handles automatic functions of lead-in, play, return, repeat and shut-off.

Low howl performance is guaranteed by use of a solid particle board base, big feet insulators and a special rubber decoupler for the S-shaped pipe arm and counterweight.

Other features include an oil-damped cueing device, record size selector, selector for automatic or manual cueing, strobe light and fine speed adjustment.

Specifications
Type: direct drive

Motor: quartz PLL Hall motor

Platter: 320mm alloy diecast

Speeds: 33 and 45rpm

Wow and flutter: 0.035%

Rumble: 73dB

Effective length: 221mm

Cartridge weight range: 4 to 10g

Dimensions: 440 x 145 x 365mm

Weight: 10.5kg

Any of your other TT products to bring this old baby back to life would be good...

[Herbie]

Your turntable should do very well on Tenderfeet, and combined with an upgrade to a Way Excellent II-4mm Turntable Mat should eliminate any rumble issues and other sonic anomalies. A bamboo board might be additionally beneficial but not really necessary. If using a bamboo (or maple or other material) platform, you'll want to use grungebuster Dots as a decoupling interface between platform and shelf, or Extra-Thick grungebuster Dots if you have particular macro-vibration issues like footfall.

Four Tenderfoot isolation feet under each of your other rack components should provide superb isolation and bring out more of the components' best potential. A bamboo board under each component really shouldn't be necessary though likely wouldn't do any harm. You'd want Tenderfeet between each component and board and grungebuster Dots between each board and shelf. (Regardless of the rack and/or platforms, you still need to upgrade from the stock feet and isolate each component individually for the components to achieve their best potential.)

Isolating the amp and loudspeakers is also essential. There's no need to spend a fortune with expensive devices; Herbie's Audio Lab's simple isolation and vibration-control products generally do as well or better than anything else you can try. It's mostly just a matter of having the right materials for the job.

Steve
Herbie's Audio Lab

[EaRich]

Thanks for the quick reply (although the main system won't be ready to put together for a few months down the road).  I will nix the boards and put that money towards the Tenderfeet. My amp, which is solid state,  will be on the bottom shelf and only weighs 33 pounds, so 4 Tenderfeet should do there, or should I maybe use your Iso-Balls? A hybrid solid state/ tube pre-amp will sit on the shelf above the power amp.  Then a Marantz CD changer will be on the third shelf, followed by the turntable.    My speakers (B&W 805 Nautilus) will be sitting on Sound Anchors made just for the 805s and will be screwed down onto the stands. (Per your site, I think I should use thin Grungebusters between the speakers and the Sound Anchors,  yes? What size do I need and how many per speaker? Will 3 per speaker do?)

And I think your cone decoupling gliders would be good for the three spikes of the Sound Anchors to move those 805s to the right position.  Question, would my system revel any difference between the brass ones compared to the titanium ones?  What about the three spikes of the rack?  They don't have to move....do I need the large decouplers for the rack spikes?

[EaRich]

Forgot to mention. ...this is on wooden floors.   

[Herbie]

Either Tenderfeet or Iso-Cups w/SuperSonic Hardballs will do very well under the amp. Fat Dots are usually most appropriate between speaker and stand. If you want to use thin grungebusters, I'd suggest using thin black grungebuster Dots, not the softer off-white; four or five 1"-diameter Dots should do. Most of our 805 customers use four Square Fat Dots between each speaker and stand with excellent results. If you are screwing the speakers to the stands, though, "Thin" Fat Dots would be beneficial, about four small ones would be ideal; though three should be sufficient. A Cone/Spike Decoupling Glider under each of the stand spikes is essential, especially if speakers are screwed to the stands, more for the sonic benefit than for the easy mobility of the speakers. Any audible sonic difference between titanium and brass Gliders will be subtle at most, though with either the sonic benefit should be quite substantial. For the rack, Cone/Spike Puckies or Fat Grounding Bases under the spikes should be beneficial and worthwhile, or Gliders of course if you should decide that you might want to be able to move the rack sometime. In any regard, you certainly wouldn't go wrong with a Giant Cone/Spike Decoupling Glider under each of the stand spikes.

Steve
Herbie's Audio Lab

[EaRich]

Thanks again Steve!  OK, thin Fat Dots between the speakers and stands....and I'll try the Iso-Balls under the power amp.  That would take care of my 'future', dream system.   (I'm just finishing paying for the amp, and the rest of my system will be picked up from my storage in Texas - I live in Los Angeles)  Now, I need to focus on your products for my current 5.1 system.

Please look at these pictures of one of my front speakers mounted on a light weight stand, the sub woofer (with the control unitssitting on top), and my Sony DVD player (with Google TV), a small DAC sitting on top, and an upgraded linear power supplyfor the DAC.

Your Baby Booties (4 a piece) for the DAC, DVD player, and power supply unit should do a good job (I hope).  Steve,  you see I have the Musical Fidelity V90 DAC sitting on top of the DVD player.  I'm hoping that having the Baby Booties between the Dac and Dvd units have the Dac act as a damper on top of the Dvd.....what do you suggest?  Should I maybe substitute Tenderfeet for the Booties between those two?

As for the sub woofer,  4 Iso-Balls should do the trick, yes?  And then those two front speakers mounted on the light weight stands.....the 'points' of the feet are about an inch wide.  Which footer for these?   These, I am ready to purchase now to see if I hear any Good change in the music.     Thanks for your help.  Earl

PS: Can't seem to upload photos right now. ...I'll post this and send them next...

[EaRich]

Let's see....






Hope these come out.

Thanks again!

[Herbie]

Baby Booties or Big Baby Booties should do very well under the DAC power supply. They would do very well under the DAC also if the DAC were sitting on the shelf or dedicated shelf. You don't want to use one rack component as damper for another, though. The player will induce all kinds of vibrational distortion into the DAC and vice versa. A dedicated shelf is always best, though components sharing a shelf laterally is usually okay, especially if each of the components is isolated with Booties or Tenderfeet. Something like a SuperSonic Stabilizer on top of a component is perfect for damping, working hand-in hand with the isolation feet under the component.

Sometimes because of space restrictions it's necessary to stack components. If so, placing Tenderfoot isolation feet between the components is the best thing you can do. TenderSoft Tenderfeet between DAC and DVD player should provide adequate isolation--and use four Tenderfeet under the DVD player also, not Booties. With Tenderfeet underneath, the DAC's additional mass might very well provide a vibration-damping function, but this should be a by-product of stacking by necessity and not by design. In many cases, trial-and-audition is the only way to know for sure.

IsoBalls would likely do very well under the sub, though they're not recommended for this application. Four Big Fat Dots would be my recommendation, compatible with our website's product descriptions and recommendations (Giant Fat Dots or Giant Fat Gliders would also be very good choices, giving you even more vibration absorbing-and-blocking "beef" for the job, more footfall/macro control. In most cases, regular Big Fat Dots should be more than sufficient, though, for a sub that's not too big like yours.

Several options would do very well with the speaker stands. Simply placing three Square Fat Dots or Big Fat Dots under each would be ideal sonically. For the sonic benefit plus easy mobility, three Little Fat Gliders w/adhesive or three Giant Fat Gliders (no adhesive needed) under each stand would be superb. If you want to keep a lower profile, regular "Thin" Fat Dots would do very well, though they might not provide quite the sonic benefit as thicker Fat Dots.

Steve
Herbie's Audio Lab

[ACHiPo]

Let's see....



Hope these come out.

Thanks again!

Looks like you're a drummer--Afro-Cuban I'd guess with that shekere and bell?

[EaRich]

...just a 'practice' hobby ACHiPo!  Yes, Afro-Cuban, Salsa, Jazz - it's all good!  Play along with the music, sit in with a couple of drum circles...

   You have to excuse the living room. ...been moved in for almost 7 months now but don't have enough space for my things and musical toys yet (and have more coming...)     I'll figure it out somehow. 

Thanks for the tips and shared experience Steve, will be putting in my first order soon...

[EaRich]

Hello Steve!  It's been almost a year and a half and I'm in a new apartment.  About a month ago, I was finally able to get all of my "dream" stereo components together and will be putting things together in a few weeks!    I will be ordering 8 of your Tenderfeet for my CD player and turntable (that have no feet) tomorrow.  I will also order six of the Cone/Spike Decoupling Gliders to start off with.  I will have to sit my B&W 805 Nautilus speakers back on the Sound Anchor speaker stands to determine how many "Thin" Fat Dots to use between the speakers and the stands....

You recommended the 4mm Way Excellent Mat for my old Pioneer PL 560 DIRECT DRIVE turntable, but I'm a bit unsure of the size option to get...please let me know, I'll get that later.  Hopefully, I'll have my system "humming" in the next month.    Thanks Steve!

[Herbie]

Pioneer PL-560 uses a 285mm-diameter mat.

Steve
Herbie's Audio Lab

[EaRich]

OK.  Thanks Steve!