Sonic Impact Class T $39 amplifier review at 6moons

maxwalrath · « **Reply #80 on:** 12 Dec 2004, 12:21 am »

Check out this thread...

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=14587

Vinnie R. · « **Reply #81 on:** 12 Dec 2004, 03:53 am »

Quote from: pboser

Hi,
I just found this thread - Vinnie, how about an update?

Also, are you saying if you remove the 50k pot you just take the signal straight into the board? Is there any need for a 50k resistor per channel to ground?

Thanks,
Pete

Hi Pete,

I am working on finishing a webpage for my new product called the
Clari-T-Amp. I will post the link for everyone real soon.

>>Also, are you saying if you remove the 50k pot you just take the signal straight into the board? Is there any need for a 50k resistor per channel to ground?

I convert the pot into a "shunt-mode" pot, and wire from the RCA jacks directly to the pot, and then from the pot directly to the TA2024 board. There are no connectors in the signal path. I also do a whole bunch of other tweaks

Regards,

Vinnie

tianguis · « **Reply #82 on:** 12 Dec 2004, 10:09 pm »

All:
After using a couple of these since October, I decided to try some mods to see how the're changed, with an eye (ear?) to perhaps getting one of Vinnie's Clari-T's. So far, here's what I've done to my "Larry-T" (apologies to Vinnie) :
1. SLA 7AH battery
2. All connectors and plugs removed
3. Pot changed
4. Inputs wired direct to pot (about 1")
5. All wire changed to 24 AWG single-conductor copper in Teflon
6. Speaker cables wired direct to the board
7. 2200 uF Nichicon PS cp, bypassed with 0.1 uF AudioCap Theta
I had all this stuff kicking around, so the cap and wire aren't ideal and a better volume control would be good. Obviously, this is no Clari-T. I'm not about to mess with SMT components. However, this one and the original are two totally different beasts. I've never had better detail, dynamics, bass and slam in my system (I'm using 98 db/w/m speaks). So far, I'm putting up with swapping inputs in and out, as it trounces my modded Panny XR50, which had retired some very good tube gear.
I've got to hear a ClariT!

Regards,
Larry Welsh

Vinnie R. · « **Reply #83 on:** 13 Dec 2004, 03:09 am »

Quote from: Vinnie R.

Hi Pete,

I am working on finishing a webpage for my new product called the
Clari-T-Amp. I will post the link for everyone real soon.

Regards,

Vinnie

All,

I have a webpage for the Clari-T-Amp up and running :

http://www.geocities.com/vinnie822

Here you will find a detailed product description, ordering info, as well as a FAQ section (which I will add Q+A's to as I get questions).

Just X out the annoying pop up that you get . I don't plan to use geocites forever

Again, I really appreciate everyones support and feedback!

-Vinnie

tyee · « **Reply #84 on:** 23 Dec 2004, 02:52 am »

Vinnie R.
Just a quick question on the shunt pot configuration. Since I am a telecom tech I do understand there are a lot of ways to describe this but of course a schematic tells all. I just wanted to try modding mine to see what difference it makes and then may order one of your full blown units.

So just to clear up how the configuration of the pot is, do you go from the input RCAs thru to a series 10K resistor then to the wiper of the pot, with the other end of the pot grounded, then take another wire from the wiper to the tripath input, not using the top pot connection. Like this --

-------/\/\/\/\/-------
10K |
|
\ |
/ |
\ |
/ |
\---|----------> To Tripath input
/
\
/
|

|
|
GND

this is not coming out properly but I hope you get it.

Vinnie R. · « **Reply #85 on:** 23 Dec 2004, 02:58 am »

Quote from: tyee

Vinnie R.
Just a quick question on the shunt pot configuration. Since I am a telecom tech I do understand there are a lot of ways to describe this but of course a schematic tells all. I just wanted to try modding mine to see what difference it makes and then may order one of your full blown units.

So just to clear up how the configuration of the pot is, do you go from the input RCAs thru to a series 10K resistor then to the wiper of the pot, with the other end of the pot grounded, then take another ...

Tyee,

I'm not sure I follow your drawing, but let me try to explain.

The pot has 3 terminals per channel: INPUT, OUTPUT, and GND

1) The input from the RCA goes to a series 10k resistor, and the other end of that resistor goes to the INPUT of the pot.

2) Now, short the INPUT and OUTPUT of the pot together. Nothing gets shorted to GND.

Does this make sense?

-Vinnie

tyee · « **Reply #86 on:** 23 Dec 2004, 03:47 am »

Yes, thanks Vinnie. It works the same as the schematic I was trying to draw except mine had the input of the pot open circuit. Yours works the same way because of the short between input and output (no current can internally flow between the input and output due to either my open circuit or your external short circuit).

Thanks.

RichterDi · « **Reply #87 on:** 2 Jan 2005, 06:01 pm »

Hi, could anyone post the correct plus / minus configuration by using an external power supply

C- Plus inside or outside

Regards, Reiner

tianguis · « **Reply #88 on:** 3 Jan 2005, 02:43 am »

Reiner:
If I understand your question correctly, the external power jack is positive (+) on the center pin.

Regards,
Larry Welsh

RichterDi · « **Reply #89 on:** 3 Jan 2005, 12:26 pm »

Hi Larry,

thanks. Center Pin positive. I was unsure, since I have both possibilities with my external power jack.

Regards, Reiner

RichterDi · « **Reply #90 on:** 3 Jan 2005, 12:27 pm »

Hi Larry,

thanks. Center Pin positive. I was unsure, since I have both possibilities with my external power jack.

Regards, Reiner

corwin99 · « **Reply #91 on:** 9 Jan 2005, 08:11 am »

I've had one of these amps for a while, but was unimpressed with it at first and really never got around to modding it... today i ripped it apart and re-chassis'd it into a blue translucent Hammond case and some chunky RCAs and Binding Posts... also removed the Pot and wired the inputs directly to RCAs with silver wire. Hooked up the binding posts with long grain copper magnet wire, and am planning on swapping out the Cap and stuff.

I wanted to ask you guys, what type of AC-DC transformer type power supply seems to work the best? i definately don't want to bother with a rechargable battery.. too much work. I want switch on/off operation, and i don't know if batteries work or not on my unit.. i was told they sound better, but when i plugged mine in, the LED came on but i had no music... it was odd. I am using a 1A 12v transformer from Partsexpress but the thing doesn't sound great to me.. definately not as good as the results you guys are getting... i'm hoping some mods will improve it. Seems to play okay with my Klipsch RB-5's, but i don't listen to them much anymore so i'm not sure.

Here's a pic of it:

RichterDi · « **Reply #92 on:** 9 Jan 2005, 12:01 pm »

Quote from: corwin99

I wanted to ask you guys, what type of AC-DC transformer type power supply seems to work the best?

Hi,

nice modding.

I am using a 13,8 V/4 A.
Sounds great. Deeper bass response than before.

Regards, Reiner

albee · « **Reply #93 on:** 9 Jan 2005, 05:45 pm »

99: I used a Pyramid 12V/2amp power supply and it worked perfectly. My Powerwave came with a 12V/500ma wall wart--so your 1amp should have worked.

I asked Tripath about the 2025 board (Powerwave/SI) and they said 13.8V is not recommended and I should stick to 12V. Some people may 13.8V with great results but I bought the 12V Pyramid just for the 2025 stuff just to be "safe".

My question to the pros: Aren't most fully charged 12V batteries showing 13V+ anyway?

corwin99 · « **Reply #94 on:** 9 Jan 2005, 06:27 pm »

The 1A wall wart i have does work, just doesn't sound fantastic.. If so many people are raving about the sound, i'm pretty sure its not the sound i'm getting is what i'm getting at

I was thinking about using that Pyramid, i've heard that adding the extra amp of power might help it.. I'll check into that. I also installed a 1000uF cap this morning... haven't tested it yet tho.

tianguis · « **Reply #95 on:** 9 Jan 2005, 06:50 pm »

Nelson:
I tried 2 or 3 wall warts while awaiting delivery of a SLA battery. None of them sounded nearly as good as the battery power. Of course, they all bested the internal batteries dynamically.

Regards,
Larry Welsh

Dmason · « **Reply #96 on:** 9 Jan 2005, 07:02 pm »

www.batterymart.com has everything you need.

mca · « **Reply #97 on:** 9 Jan 2005, 10:03 pm »

I would like to pick up a SLA battery for my little SI amp. I checked out Batterymart.com, but there are too many 12v batteries to choose from. Which one have you guys found to work best?

Dmason · « **Reply #98 on:** 10 Jan 2005, 12:32 am »

The 1.3Ah 12V SLA will be more than enough. They have a trickle charger that plugs into the wall with green and red LED indicators. Works a charm.

corwin99 · « **Reply #99 on:** 10 Jan 2005, 03:42 am »

Quote from: Dmason

The 1.3Ah 12V SLA will be more than enough. They have a trickle charger that plugs into the wall with green and red LED indicators. Works a charm.

1.3Ah? That doesn't sound like a lot of charge (for most applications, anyway

.. how long will that last in the Sonic Impact?