[twon2is7]

I am in the process of deciding on which kit amp to purchase and was after some opinons from people who have built an ASKA amp and some others such as JLH, ZEN, P3A, self, curtis etc .

Which amp do you prefer and why?

I guess I there will be an overwhelming response to the ASKAs, but what I  am really after is reasons why ppl prefer the ASKA to the other amps, ie sound qualtiy (why you think it may sound better), reliability, qualtiy of kit, instructions, support, and any points that you feel are required

thanks for responses!

[AKSA]

Twon,

Have a gander at this thread here in DIYaudio:

http://diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=ee2c7eb8878a561f6608d3a17901bd92&threadid=21305&perpage=10&highlight=&pagenumber=4

Note particularly the ranking from David Stocks, who has researched the amplifier alongside its peers very carefully.

No subjective descriptors are given, but then, they can be whatever we interpret them to be, can't they?  Suffice to say that there are four elements to amplifier design - topology, dimensioning, layout, and component choice.  You can build a good amplifier on veroboard, but if the layout and component choice is optimized, it will sound much better.  This optimization is invaluable in a properly sorted kit, and any design which invites you to select components and apportion layout is compromised from the outset unless you are prepared to spend hundreds of hours carefully making choices.

Cheers,

Hugh

[twon2is7]

Twon,

Have a gander at this thread here in DIYaudio:

http://diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=ee2c7eb8878a561f6608d3a17901bd92&threadid=21305&perpage=10&highlight=&pagenumber=4

Note particularly what was said by David Stocks, who has researched the amplifier alongside its peers very carefully.

Cheers,

Hugh

Thanks Hugh, I have been over that list (you emailled it to me a few weeks ago), however it is limited in the number of ppl who have ranked an ASKA (all good tough).  I was hoping that more ppl on this list may have built an ASKA and some other DIY and have some comments regarding the differences

Cheers
twon2is7

[andyr]

Twon,

Have a gander ...

Suffice to say that there are four elements to amplifier design - topology, dimensioning, layout, and component choice. ...

Twon,

There is one more but Hugh, as the seller, cannot realistically say this ... the technical help you get from Hugh is without peer.  In other words, not only do you get an amplifier that few best - and only at an extravagent price-point - you get all the technical help you need to ensure you end up with an amp which works to spec.  This is not just the instructions - which are very detailed - but also the after-sales service.

Regards,

Andy

[Rocket]

Hi Twon,

Well in my opinion you are really in the box seat as you live in Melbourne.

I bought an aksa 100 (stock) and now have upgraded it to nirvana plus status it is an excellent sounding amplifier. I prefer it to my n.e.w. dc-66 amplifier which sold for $6500 in australia.

Why not ask hugh if you can have a listen to his amp or compare your current amplifier to his.   I'm sure you will be impressed.

I bought my amp as a 'leap of faith' and didn't have the opportunity to listen to it prior to buying it.

regards

rocket

[Greg Erskine]

Mate, you live in Melbourne, you don't really have a choice here. When you buy the AKSA you'll get free coffee and a nice chit chat with the designer. What more could you want?  

sound quality (why you think it may sound better), reliability, qualtiy of kit, instructions, support

My AKSA is at the top of my list in all these categories.

My list of DIY amps: AKSA 55, DIGI125, P3A, SC480, BriantGT GC, P2P NIGC LM3875 and NIGC LM1875.

I suppose the one thing that makes the AKSA stand out as the best choice is it comes "AS A COMPLETE KIT" (less toroids, case and a few other little bits) You are guaranteed an excellent outcome as Hugh provides high quality PCBs and components that have been matched for sonics.

Bye
Greg Erskine

[DVV]

I am in the process of deciding on which kit amp to purchase and was after some opinons from people who have built an ASKA amp and some others such as JLH, ZEN, P3A, self, curtis etc .

Which amp do you prefer and why?

I guess I there will be an overwhelming response to the ASKAs, but what I  am really after is reasons why ppl prefer the ASKA to the other amps, ie sound qualtiy (why you think it may sound better), reliability, qualtiy of kit, instructions, support, and any points that you feel are required

thanks for responses!

I just received an AKSA 50 kit from Hugh. There are just two reasons why I haven't started out on it yet:

1. My new soldering station is still locked up on the customs, and should be with me early next week, and

2. It takes time to read through all the material Hugh sent me. And unlike other such stuff, where out say 5 packages, only one is really important, the one on how to actially build it, this is WELL worth reading.

And I'm supposed to be the scribomaniac ...  )))

Cheers,
DVV

[Seano]

Hey bloke
As others have said......you're in Melbourne, you can get one-on-one after sales service with coffee thrown in.  In my experience, Hugh will bend over backwards (often, it seems, to the point of economic stupidity) to ensure one more AKSA comes into the world to the satisfaction of the client.

Construction wise, the AKSA was my first kit amplifier and only my third electronic kit project. The instructions that came with the amp plus the emails from Hugh left me in no doubt what extra components I required to finish the AKSA. Assembly is relatively straight forward - there's little if any fiddling or esoteric twiddling with components or boards when tooling up the boards - just soldering (unless you go to Nirvana Plus level). The testing requirements are fairly simple to manage too.  My only hint is to get a sheet of polystyrene and stick all the components in it against identifying labels and assembly step number.  That way everything is to hand when you need it and you can double check again that you have the right component right at the point of assembly.  And even if you, like me, destroy something then Hugh will rescue you quickly and fairly.

Sound wise...........well I'm not much of an audiophile.  I just like quality noise at an economic price.  Other punters tell me that the AKSA is comparable with some pretty pricey audio equipment. My own AKSA simply sank the Yamaha integrated that was already doing duty at my place which made me a very happy little blowfly since the AKSA 100w (at the time - I've since acquired the Plus pack and one of Hugh's bespoke cases) cost me less than the replacement value of the Yamaha.  I'm still using the Yammy as a pre amp but the taxman is lending me the money for a GK-1 very very soon!!

Reliability? Three years, four houses, innumerrable blackouts/brownouts/voltage variants due to dodgy rural power supply, four dust storms, many parties, over-enthusiastic friends, frequent use at high volume so we can hear music across 2 acres of garden, high ambient temperatures, amatuer assembler (I'm told it's still not properly earthed), no on/off switch (it's always on), unfinished case and absolutely no ongoing maintainence.........after all that it still rocks.  In other words, same sort of reliability you'd expect from production line audio equipment.

In other words, it's all good.

[CButterworth]

My experience with the AKSA is very positive.  I had a very cheap audio system and searched around the internet for ideas.  I cannot even remember how I found the AKSA.

I had previously built a couple of battery operated headphone amps, a 35W amp for my HAM radio and a lightning detector!

As you can imagine, I suffered considerable angst at the thought of undertaking the AKSA.  I needn't have worried.  Hugh's instructions are good and thorough and guide the building process in a logical step-by-step order.

Any questions that I had regarding the building were answered quickly and with courtesy by Hugh, or other forum members.

The amp sounds amazing, in my opinion.  I do not have any other high-end equipment to compare it with.  I am certainly not considering leaving the AKSA family of audiophiles.

Anyway, certainly take your time choosing the amp that you feel is right for you, and best of luck!

Charlie

[kyrill]

I am out for the best within budget which leaves reasonable room.
So I compared AKSA with the best
Before AKSA my best was a Klyne 7 preamp (www.Klyne.com)
a MELOS 400 triode tube (sounded better than Audio research and another ABsolute Sound editor's choice, in fact I heard from Melos because HP put it in his highest class editor's choice at that time) and
Martin Logan's Quest electrostatics.

Last year I replaced the system (as I could sell my system for 10.000,312 AU dollars) for:
 the DEQX digital preamp,
two GK-1
3 AKSA 55 N+
and self designed speakers (easy to do without crossovers  )
I picked the speakers with the help of this forum
Raven like ribbon tweeters and Focal Audiom mid and bass

The system is by no way finished yet but sounds already better
The price of the AKSA's is a tenth of the MElos and a fifth of the Klyne
The Melos equals the AKSA on musicality and overpass it with power but first I do not want tubes anymore for power amps and secondly the AKSA had much tighter bass.
But above all, I want to be fooled. I know I listen to an electronic system, but I want to hear a live performance in front of me.
I dont listen to a song, I listen to her, singing the song
I can hear from Rebecca Pidgeon in "The Raven" that she is nervous, from Leonard Cohen in Live Songs that he is sometimes a little drunk. That makes them three dimensional and alive
It is the very person who is singing or playing, that I want to hear and the Aspen family is capable of providing that .

[DVV]

Well, happy day! My new soldering station has FINALLY arrived (and I have no fingernails at all).

In the meanwhile, I literally studied Hugh's texts, trying to imagine how they would be digested by a relative novice.

The 19" rack case has been ordered, and should be with me in two or three days.

The toroids I am to pick up on Friday.

Then I give it a run for its money. It will be compared with a Harman/Kardon 6550, 2x50/70W into 8/4 ohms, a Harman/Kardon 680, 2x85/130W into 8/4 ohms (but capable of 542 watts into 2 ohms peak impulse power!), a Yamaha AX-592, 2x100W/8 ohms and Karan Acoustics KA-i180, 2x180/250W into 8/4 ohms.

It will be fed signals both from the CD variable output sockets direct, and a Rotel and an Audio Research preamp.

It will be asked to work into my current B&M Acoustics 1041 monitors (a VERY easy load, 8 ohms nominal, 6.5 ohms minimum, worst case phase shift at -25 degrees), JBL's Ti600 floorstanders, AR94 (rebuilt) and B&M Acoustics AP17 floorstanders (very cheap, but surprisingly good speakers for the price).

It will work direct from the socket, or via a DeZorel power line filter.

It will see Jamo, van den HUl CS122 and van den Hul 352 Hybrid cables.

And, Lord have mercy on its soul, it will see me. And my Dr Mengele lab.

I should be done in about three weeks' time.

Cheers,
DVV

[kyrill]

I would wish you succes Dejan, but after seeing yr website, I am sure you don't need it.

You have a very  impressive web site
What would help me is the date of yr articles or the update date of the articles.
Especially yr fine piece of tweaking with opamps is sensitive for "aging" when new (better) opamps come out. But  I can spend easily an hour on yr site and of course it is bookmarked  

[AKSA]

DVV aka Dr Mengele,

Sterilise your instruments........

The interrogation begins!!  

Cheers,

Hugh

[Lost81]

Hi fellow (and potential ) AKSAphiles,

This is a preliminary report (am tired, it is 1:30 AM and it is a school night), and I will write more later, but I'm stoked!
(I know my system sounds "nice" but this?)

A fellow audiophile, P__, came over to audition my system.
I must preface this with the admission that for the last 3 years I have been lusting after his set-up:
I.e.
Marantz CD63SE (as a transport)
ART sMart DIO (modified by Wayne of Bolder Cables)
Audible Illusions L1 Pre-Amplifier
Pass Aleph 3 Pure Class A Amplifier
B&W Nautilus 805 Speakers

P__'s system beat my previous set-up:
CAL Delta Transport (stock)
ART sMart DIO (modified by Wayne of Bolder Cables)
TLP Nirvana
Harman Kardon Signature 2.1  5x100W Amplifier
Mission 753 Freedoms Speakers (6 ohm)

In comparison to P__'s system, my previous set-up sounded less dynamic, the soundstage wasn't as open, and the highs seem muffled.

Fast-forward to my current system:
After P__ listened to my system:
I.e.
CAL Delta Transport (stock)
ART Mensa DIO (w/ Bybee Slipstream & WBT Nex-Gen 75 ohm connector- modified by Wayne of Bolder Cables)
TLP Nirvana (further improved w/ Tantalum / Riken Ohm resistors & Black Gate capacitors)
4 AKSA 100W Nirvana Monoblocks (w/ Mills Wirewound Emitter Resistors, Tantalum feedback resistor)
Mission 754 Freedom 5 Speakers (6 ohm)

it was his unreserved conclusion that the AKSA system is more dynamic, the soundstage is more open, the presentation is more "in-your-face," the separation of instruments more accurate, the resolution is higher, and most importantly, the music is more emotionally engaging.

Right now, as I haven't made up my mind yet, the monoblocks are temporarily using 1 feet of Original Monster Cable 12 AWG cable for internal chassis wiring for the speaker outputs, and $0.99 stainless steel (can you say hystersis?) Radio Shack binding posts. (Frankly, I'm amazed that with the currently poor quality of the output wiring and binding posts, the sound is THAT good). Recommendations for internal chassis speaker output wiring for the treble / mid-range monoblocks, and the bass monoblocks, anyone? I am thinking Cardas 11.5AWG Enamelled Litz for the bass. I am lost as to the treble / mid-range. Part of me is thinking braided silver, but the other part of me is telling me not to go there. The permanent binding posts will be WBT Mid-line.

He can't believe that the system can be improved any further.
(I guess I should tell him about Aspen's GK-1 and the Nirvana Plus, eh? )

I can't recall who said it, but what one of Wayne's customer's wrote is absolutely right--i.e. "If you have the sMart DIO, you will be insane not to upgrade it to the Mensa level!" Someone else also mentioned that the choice to upgrade from sMart to Mensa "...is a no brainer." I couldn't agree more! The increased resolution and bass have to be heard to be believed. No doubt the Mensa contributed greatly to the overall synergy and clarity of my system

I would like to express a huge "Thank You!" to Hugh and the AKSA community  for this incredible journey. I learnt A LOT in the process of constructing these babies and had the honor of getting to know many great individuals. It is an experience I will definitely recommend. What an introduction to audio DIY! You guys rock!


Cheers,
-benny

[andyr]

Hi, Benny,

So glad you've had your wise choice (to spend all that money and effort to build some AKSAs) confirmed by someone whose system you had lusted after!!  All you have to do now to completely tip him over the edge is invite him to listen when you've upgraded your 100Ns to 100N+s!!  You will certainly get MORE base, mate!!

Now, you asked for "Recommendations for internal chassis speaker output wiring for the treble / mid-range monoblocks, and the bass monoblocks, anyone?  I am thinking Cardas 11.5AWG Enamelled Litz for the bass.  I am lost as to the treble / mid-range.

Part of me is thinking braided silver, but the other part of me is telling me not to go there.  The permanent binding posts will be WBT Mid-line."

The main reason I am replying to you is you mentioned "Cardas" ... and I have some experience with it.  Unless you have a solder pot (which I don't) trying to get the bloody polyurethane coating off all the copper strands, so you can get a good solder connection, is a real PITA - so I say ... don't bother using it!

If you like litz (as I do) then use, say, 2 runs of 24awg solid core, teflon Cat 5 wire, just twisted all together to make it neat.  IE. 16 strands in all - this is equivalent to about 12awg.

If you want to try multi-strand then some wire which Malcolm Fear purchased recently may well be better.  This appears to be about an 18awg, teflon coated multi-strand Cu-Ag alloy and Mal has compared some ICs which he's made out of this with his previous fave which was braided teflon Cat5.  He prefers the Cu-Ag alloy!.  It's made with a shield but you can strip this off.  2 or 3 runs of this would be fine for the base with one for the mid/treble.

Regards,

Andy

[kyrill]

Hi
I must admit I am still reluctant to believe in the importance of wire over short lengths. On the other hand I am fiddling with cotton shoelaces..
This is my hierachical list of priorities ( after 30 years of listening) in effecting the sound I hear. # 1)being   most imortant.
Key characteristics are transparency and musicality and 3D and space of cd as input in a high end system with a given set of excellent speakers and starting from moderate mainstream hifi gear, not cheapies
1) cd transport  
2) pre-amp
3) quality of input: the cd itself
4)powerline conditioner (filters + balanced pwr) + shielded* power cords
5)DAC
6) poweramp
7) interconnects (shielded* )
speaker wires

Rationale behind it
Assuming a first class musical cd
1) immediately it will be ruined (relatively spoken, most "normal"listeners do not hear what you "forget" to give attention) by the high jitter of the transport like a bad damped turntable will do for the beloved LP's. Focus disappears together with 3D. Damping of transport, and in general will also help greatly
2) if 1) is good to excellent than you need a good to excellent preamp to be able to let you hear all the good that does come in, even when the DAC is of moderate quality. it will let you hear things like space and placement. A mainstream preamp is less "right" than a mainstream DAC
I am not thinking of dacs in 199 us dollars cd players
3) Now the input starts to play a role as good transport and preamp are a must
4) A good DAC will honour the preamp and cd even more and adds palpability and the happy loss of electronic sound
5) BOTH + pwr. amp will benefit more than greatly of clean power, the most underestimated property of higend. You will hear details that focuses the musical picture into a sharp defined gestalt.
6) A good poweramp On place 6 as a poweramp is less vulnerable than the preamp as the musical signal is much stronger than in a (pre) preamp
Now the effects become much more subtle
7) interconnects (less than 3,5 feet, 1 mtr)
speakercable (less than 8 feet)

If room correction would be included it would be on place 6 or on place 1, depending on preference. What is more important to you,
transparency and placement of instruments (place 6) or lineair freqency(1) ? phase response and time alignment are already part of the excellent speakers

*or folded in each other for common mode rejection

[Lost81]

The main reason I am replying to you is you mentioned "Cardas" ... and I have some experience with it. Unless you have a solder pot (which I don't) trying to get the bloody polyurethane coating off all the copper strands, so you can get a good solder connection, is a real PITA - so I say ... don't bother using it!

Hi andyr,

Thanks for your kind words and encouragement

Yes, I have heard horror stories about the difficulties of working with Cardas wire (and no, I don't have a solder pot). However, I am under the impression that Welborne Labs will tin each end for an added US$0.50 per end:

I.e. Cardas Audio Teflon Insulated Hookup Wire

Excellent hookup wire from Cardas Audio.  Individual strands are coated so this wire is difficult to work with as this coating must be removed before soldering (solder pot recommended).  The extra effort is worth it!  We will tin the ends of the wires for you for a nominal charge of 50 cents per end.  Just let us know the exact lengths you need.

I guess I should clarify with them if that service includes stripping some of the insulation off for me, or do they just tin the exposed ends. I am planning to use a thick gauge of copper wire for the bass monoblock speaker output (internal wiring) wires.

At this moment, I am curious about silver wiring for speaker output (internal wiring) for the mid-range / treble AKSA 100W Nirvana monoblocks. Welborne labs seems to have a reasonable price for their 18AWG teflon-insulated silver wires for $5/feet.

With regards to the bass monoblocks, I am still leaning towards copper for bass. I am under the impression that copper is still the best for bass. Maybe someone can correct me in this if I am wrong.


-Lost81

[Occam]

Los,

If you have your heart set on large gauge Cardas litz, and given your vast quatity of electronics (4 Nirvana monoblocs!!!), even if someone will tin @ $0.50/each end, you might consider your very own solder pot-
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/NewarkWebCommerce/mcm/en_US/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=21-3511&N=4

[Lost81]

Los,

If you have your heart set on large gauge Cardas litz, and given your vast quatity of electronics (4 Nirvana monoblocs!!!), even if someone will tin @ $0.50/each end, you might consider your very own solder pot-
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/NewarkWebCommerce/mcm/en_US/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=21-3511&N=4

Wow! That looks like a great deal, Occam

Thanks! I will certainly look into it.
It is definitely more affordable than the Hakko solder pot ($160).


Cheers,
-Lost81

[Lost81]

Hi fellow (and potential ) AKSAphiles,

This is a preliminary report... and I will write more later...

As promised, here's the rest.

I thought it would be better if the rest of the "impressions" are stated in P___'s own words (brackets [] inserted by me for clarification):

Hey dood.

I think I came home possessed or sumthin. I am really craving to hear more of the leonard cohen music ...
 
My preamp is the [Audible Illusions] L1. The L1 goes through tubes quite quickly, but it'll be a good 6 months with 2-3 hour daily music playing before you have to change it. It's like a good car's engine, giving it synthetic oil change at regular intervals is expensive and might be overkill, but it will let the engine perform its best. I think it's totally worth it.

However, I think the Aspen preamps are jewels that will hold their own against [the Audible Illusions] Mod L1 or 3A.

The guy [on Audiogon] is selling a Mod 3. .not a 3A.. which is supposed to be drastically different. Costs different too.

I think overall my system loses out to yours in overall clarity and dynamics. I thought that my system sounded smoother, which I think for some club music is actually a detriment.

I thought your system resolved imaging and soundstaging superbly. Maybe it's thanks to all the sound treatments you have in place?


 
-Lost81