[alfajim]

Hello I am new to the forum but am one of the JVC DD guys.
My questions are I picked up near mint JVC QL-5 with out tone arm off the bay a while back for $25.00 then got a complete QL-A7 tonearm assembly for $180.00 am working to mount the arm on the plinth now.
I have been reading the posts about filling in the plinth with plasticene to deaden the deck. The plinth on this TT appears to be solid particle board wood not the laminate like the others plus it is solid front to back from the tone arm cutout forward. There is a fair amount of open area around the platter assembly that could be filled if necessary.
Does this model have the same ringing tendency's as the other QL decks?
Also I need the metal ID plate for the top that goes under the que lever for the setting marking's
So I am looking for advice and assistance for modding and setting up this TT.

Jim     

[S Clark]

Welcome Jim.  I've got a QL6 with lots of plasticene, but have never owned the 5 or the 7.  Regardless, I don't think you can go wrong with adding mass and deadening at the same time.  The previous moderator of this circle even added it to the surface of his QL6- making a very quiet and ugly turntable.  Also, the feet of these were known to be problem area.  I use Herbies tenderfeet.  Good luck with your project.  It should make you a very nice table.

Scott

[alfajim]

Thanks Scott the subject block was a typo couldn't find the edit button to change it should of said QL-5.

I was hoping he was still around as it looked as though he has had a lot of experience with the JVC tables, and besides I am in the San Francisco Bay area myself.

Jim

[S Clark]

I'm very sad to say that John the Chair Guy, expert in all things JVC, died about a year or so back.  He is still missed by many of us.   

[alfajim]

Yea so sorry to hear that I caught the tread on that, after reading all the JVC posts he did it will be a large loss of expertise and advice.
The feet on this deck are like the rest of it virually new, also the tonearm, even the weight rubber does not even sag a little. I will have to machine out the solid piece in front of the arm cavity to install the tonearm controls as there is no provision for them.
Thinking to leave them off and make it manual but not real handy that way to much baby sitting.
Does anyone here know where to get any parts? need the QL-A7 data plate on the top.

Thanks all
Jim

[alfajim]

With John's passing who has taken over being the chief guru of the JVC gang now?

[S Clark]

Although there may be other JVC users I suspect that most are like me, with one table and limited experience.  Have you checked over on Vinyl Engine?  You might have better luck there.
Oh, another thing.  Ditch the rubber pad that came with the table and get something better.  Again, Herbies silicon foam pads work very well.  It's not a subtle upgrade.

[alfajim]

Made numerous posts on VE about this got few to none reply's about this only the modeling clay suggestion.

Same over on SH tv, much more info and JVC'er posters here glad I came across this site linked off a thread on SH.tv one thing i saw here was a picture of the compartment for the tonearm control cavity as I have to machine out the solid wood part there to fit every thing in so big help there. Just wish I could find the top ID setting plate for the QL-A7 TT so I have the index and size lines.
Caught a mention on one post that the QL-5 plinth is HDF not MDF it is mentioned in the flyer or brochure too I believe.

Jim

[neobop]

Hello I am new to the forum but am one of the JVC DD guys.
My questions are I picked up near mint JVC QL-5 with out tone arm off the bay a while back for $25.00 then got a complete QL-A7 tonearm assembly for $180.00 am working to mount the arm on the plinth now.
I have been reading the posts about filling in the plinth with plasticene to deaden the deck. The plinth on this TT appears to be solid particle board wood not the laminate like the others plus it is solid front to back from the tone arm cutout forward. There is a fair amount of open area around the platter assembly that could be filled if necessary.
Does this model have the same ringing tendency's as the other QL decks?
Also I need the metal ID plate for the top that goes under the que lever for the setting marking's
So I am looking for advice and assistance for modding and setting up this TT.

Jim   

Hi Jim welcome,
If the plinth is solid except for around the motor, you're not going to benefit as much from clay.  Also, you have to leave some space around the motor so it can breath (cool).  You would benefit from adding some sheet metal or sheet lead, and/or corner braces inside the plinth.  BTW, on some of these decks the worst offender is said to be the bottom panel.

That plate might be hard to find except if you find a parts deck.  Maybe you can find it here:
http://organdonorparts.com/main.sc

Sometimes on epay there's someone parting out a table, but you might have to improvise.  Any chance you can get it where you got the arm?

Does the new arm have the same dimensions as the A5 arm?  By that I mean is the mounting distance correct?  I suggest being sure of this before proceeding.   Although there is no "official" JVC fan boy club, we might be able to help figure it out.
neo

[alfajim]

Thanks Neo,
                   Was reading about the bottom plate problems on the Y55, 66, 77 TT's the bottom plate on this one is just a thin piece of masonite with a lot of holes in it and a metal box for the transformer. The tonearm side just has a square cavity cut out for the lower arm parts and the solder strip for the leads. It is solid from all the way to the front. It has the rubber feet 6mm screws mine are just like new, actually the whole table is. It originally had the JVC ua7045 arm but the last owner changed it out for another one, he had to oval the hole for it as it was shorter.
Both arms are the same length 245mm I would like to get a drawing, tracing of the cut out for the A7 arm hole and hold down screw pattern. Also do you or anyone on here know what the screw anchors are made of or how they are held in the deck and lastly the centers for the arm hole to the que lever hole. I can set it up in the mill and and machine out all wood I need to remove.
Does the metal plate on the A7 covering the control mechanism have anything attached to it?

Thanks guy's
Jim  

[neobop]

Hi Jim,
I checked the VE database and I see the mounting distance is the same (230mm).  I don't have either of these decks, so I'm clueless about the bolts etc.

There's a service manual for the QL-A7 in the VE library.  You can probably find some answers there.  There should be an expanded diagram of the tonearm and mount, and instructions for arm removal and instillation.  If the original hole has been changed it's important that you verify correct mounting distance.  That's from the middle of the spindle to the hole center.  It's often easier to measure with the platter off, but that depends on the plinth.  Maybe the original mounting holes are still there and they're the same as the QL-5.

Let us know how you're making out.
neo

[alfajim]

Neo good day mate,
I have down loaded all the manuals for the A7 and QL-5 plus got a complete printed one for the QL-5.
There is enough of the original hole for the tonearm that I can get a diameter and use masking tape to layout a pattern to mount the A7 arm. I got lucky that the original tonearm lock was there so it will set the arm in the right place after I get arm base down, have to grind away some around the center base hole to allow the A7 bumps on the arm base to clear so the base will set down so I can drill the mounting screw holes. Once that is done then open up the hole so all the parts on the bottom of the arm will go in after reassembling the arm then can lock it withe the A7 arm lock which is on the arm base and the QL-5 lock and bolt it down all done.
I can either leave the que and size controls off and use manual or machine away the wood and install them too for utilizing the semi auto functions, I really like the lift shut off function so don't have to always be primed to jump up and lift arm and shut off. Thats the reason I got the arm plus it was virtually like new.
Haven't gone forward yet as I was hoping someone could get me a layout drawing for the A7 deck first, so I will just jump in and go for it. Will keep all advised. Checked out the link you gave me no QL-A7 TT's shown will send an e mail asking though.

Thanks Jim

[John Rivera]

a bit of a  bump on this - (apologies mods - i signed up to send a message but since account is limited as a new user can't. I am a regular poster over on audiokarma but stumbled upon this thread in my great search for this post/rest!))

Jim, when you added the A7 tonearm assembly onto your QL-5  did you continue using/keep your tonearm post/rest from the QL-5?

have a QL-7 we are rebuilding and purchased it with that missing and have had a doozy of a time hunting one down.    might have to break down and just pick up a parts unit the next time one pops up but figured I'd join up here and post up in case you did have it and would part with it! since the 5 and 7 share the same post!

[Cheeseboy]

I have a QL-8 and love it.

[Johnny2Bad]

Looks like a nice deck.

At the time this table was manufactured, JVC was a subsidiary of Matshushita Electric, parent of Technics. The short answer there is the technology is shared (in other words, the JVC decks are the equal to the Technics decks technology-wise) and the cosmetics, etc are a step up on the JVC gear ... think of it as a Toyota / Lexus thing, or a Ford / Mercury thing, or a VW / Audi thing ... you get the idea).

Any of the Japanese tables with aluminum platters can be improved somewhat by applying a solution to minimize ringing. There are many, so I won't get into specifics but do some research and take your time before you decide on anything permanent. One note if anyone is reading this for general information rather than specific JVC 5 information ... DO NOT modify an AC motor DENON platter without careful reading. In particular avoid anything that interferes with the magnetic stripe on the underside of the platter ... Do Not even attempt to clean it with a wipe of a clean cloth; that is a mistake ... . For the DC motor Direct Drives, there is little to worry about here.

The better Japanese DC DD tables incorporated engineered rubber mats that addressed the ringing issue ... they are not "generic" even though they may seem so ... and therefore the first thing to think about is you can either run the 'table with the OEM mat and no mods for ringing platters, or if you change the OEM rubber mat to anything else, you need to address the platter ringing at the same time ... they go hand in hand.

I ran across an eBay vendor, based (I believe) in Poland, who makes plinths for various vintage tables considered worthy of attention. They are not expensive ... maybe $200 ... and would probably address some of the issues you feel should be addressed. I say eMail him and see what he says ... probably all you would need would be a template sketched out from your particular unit and it looks to me like it would be no problem beyond that.

eBay username / store:

valeriabond

The tonearm you have chosen looks very capable of extracting the best from a medium or low compliance Moving Coil cartridge, like the venerable Denon 103 family, but also many others. I think you have a very decent setup ... I was going to say "start" but you are actually well beyond that; you could use that table and arm as-is and still be quite happy it seems to me.

[WireNut]

I have a QL-7 and its a keeper. I like the fact that it is a manual table, very simple, and I need the exercise getting up and flipping the album over. Love my QL-7.

[sanlanman]

Alfajim, Just to be sure, you have a QL5, not a QL50, right? These two are almost the same except the QL50 is the armless version with the interchangeable arm boards. I have both, with a Sumiko Premier MMT tonearm on the 50. The QL50, with Premier MMT arm and Ortofon 2M Bronze is my primary table upstairs and the QL50 is a backup, or to experiment with other cartridges.

If you can precision drill aluminum, you might want to consider mounting the arm you have in a plate, by putting a center mark on the plate. Getting your offset distance from spindle to a mark on the plate, then mark the plate position on the table. Then drill the plate, mount the arm to plate, then mount the plate to align with the marks on your turntable. Just a thought.

If you want something to lift the stylus off the record at end of play, look for an old but still good AT6006e. They are finicky to install in the proper position, but work great once properly set up. Unfortunately they are getting costly on the used market.

[Wire Nut]

Guys, love the JVC QL-5 and have modified several, they make a VERY musical table for a low investment. I use B-Quiet on the top and bottom of the deck, leave plenty of room so the sound stays "lively" as you don't want to over damp it.
Here is what the top side of one of my mods looks like:


Here is a platter of a different QL-5 table- they need damping too:



I own the site Cryo-Parts and sell a lot of modified vintage tables and these mods do make an audible difference, I do at least a a couple of dozen a year. I have several posts over on the VE with step by step on how to upgrade vintage tables.