If you can build IKEA furniture, these will be a breeze. H Frame Flat Packs

TomS · « **Reply #200 on:** 17 Apr 2015, 01:01 pm »

Quote from: HAL on 17 Apr 2015, 12:05 pm

Guy13,
That is my mom's old apartment that is attached to our house. It was her living room. When friends come to visit they stay there now. All one level so easy to get around.

Time to start moving it all to the listening room downstairs for driver installation.

I was beginning to wonder what was going on there. It seemed like you had speakers under construction in every room of your house!

Guy 13 · « **Reply #201 on:** 17 Apr 2015, 01:30 pm »

Quote from: HAL on 17 Apr 2015, 12:05 pm

Guy13,
That is my mom's old apartment that is attached to our house. It was her living room. When friends come to visit they stay there now. All one level so easy to get around.

Time to start moving it all to the listening room downstairs for driver installation.

Hi (Again) HAL,
thanks for the precision.
You will have to move it like it was a LEGO toy,
piece by piece...

Guy 13

HAL · « **Reply #202 on:** 17 Apr 2015, 01:34 pm »

Guy13,
That is why I had Ruben build it as a modular sub. No way to move the entire stack built due to the height in my house. Lego sub blocks!

Guy 13 · « **Reply #203 on:** 17 Apr 2015, 01:37 pm »

Quote from: HAL on 17 Apr 2015, 01:34 pm

Guy13,
That is why I had Ruben build it as a modular sub. No way to move the entire stack built due to the height in my house. Lego sub blocks!

Hi (Again - again) HAL,
so you will have to do 12 trips to get all of those (LEGO) blocks
to their final resting destination.

Guy 13

rollo · « **Reply #204 on:** 17 Apr 2015, 01:40 pm »

Woofer-saurus I say. Ya better reinforce your home.

charles

HAL · « **Reply #205 on:** 17 Apr 2015, 03:19 pm »

Charles,
The room reinforcement was done at the time I built the house 20 years ago.

The room is 10' x 16'x 25.2'. All four walls are 14" thick. There is a 9" block outer wall sitting on a 6" slab. Then a 1" airgap between that and the 2"x4" interior wall with two pieces of 1/2" gypsum board at 90deg angles. It is my audio bunker as 1/2 of the room is underground. No problem developing low frequency bass and I have also treated it with ASC tube traps in the four corners of the room. First reflection points have Sonex, RPG foam or RPG abfusors.

The OB servo subs should solve the base modes that are left after careful original room planning.

Captainhemo · « **Reply #206 on:** 17 Apr 2015, 03:50 pm »

Hal, Ruben

How are the modules held together when final assembly is done ?

jay

HAL · « **Reply #207 on:** 17 Apr 2015, 03:53 pm »

There are two bolt holes on the top and bottom of each module. Only top and bottom have one pair. Came with enough bolts, washers and nuts to hold them all together once stacked.

The thin relief shims that go between layers do need to be drilled to match up with the holes. Those are needed so the grill will fit on front. If no grills, then bolt away.

Captainhemo · « **Reply #208 on:** 17 Apr 2015, 04:09 pm »

Quote from: HAL on 17 Apr 2015, 03:53 pm

There are two bolt holes on the top and bottom of each module. Only top and bottom have one pair. Came with enough bolts, washers and nuts to hold them all together once stacked.

The thin relief shims that go between layers do need to be drilled to match up with the holes. Those are needed so the grill will fit on front. If no grills, then bolt away.

Got ya ! I see the holes now, missed them before

HAL · « **Reply #209 on:** 17 Apr 2015, 04:35 pm »

Nice pair of... Woofers!

Complete with mounting screws in the box!

bdp24 · « **Reply #210 on:** 17 Apr 2015, 06:04 pm »

Quote from: HAL on 17 Apr 2015, 03:19 pm

Charles,
The room reinforcement was done at the time I built the house 20 years ago.

The room is 10' x 16'x 25.2'. All four walls are 14" thick. There is a 9" block outer wall sitting on a 6" slab. Then a 1" airgap between that and the 2"x4" interior wall with two pieces of 1/2" gypsum board at 90deg angles. It is my audio bunker as 1/2 of the room is underground. No problem developing low frequency bass and I have also treated it with ASC tube traps in the four corners of the room. First reflection points have Sonex, RPG foam or RPG abfusors.

The OB servo subs should solve the base modes that are left after careful original room planning.

Oh man, what I wouldn't give for a room with those dimensions! Very close to the Golden Ratio ideal of 1 X 1.6 X 2.6. All the room modes will be as even and mild as possible in a sealed room, and the OB sub's inherent qualities are going to be clearly apparent!

HAL · « **Reply #211 on:** 17 Apr 2015, 06:09 pm »

Those were the dimensions I was trying for, but the building materials would only let me get close.

Still, very even bass response and extremely quiet in the room.

HAL · « **Reply #212 on:** 17 Apr 2015, 07:28 pm »

Drivers installed into the bottom two H-Frames to start the stacks. Making sure I have all the screws lined up before fully tightening them down.

Four more after that, once I get them out of the Super-V's and bring down the extra modules.

Guy 13 · « **Reply #213 on:** 18 Apr 2015, 12:24 pm »

Hi HAL,
wow, that driver fit pretty snuggly in there,
not much room around it.
Some screws must have been a little dificult to screw in ?

Guy 13

HAL · « **Reply #214 on:** 18 Apr 2015, 12:35 pm »

Guy13,
No, all the screws are easy to start and fully seat with a hex head driver. I have a ratcheting driver that has a hex head set for this type of work. It is tight, but enough room to work easily.

HAL · « **Reply #215 on:** 18 Apr 2015, 12:41 pm »

Ruben really did make these easy to assemble with markings on each 1x12" module for correct orientation of all the pieces and numbered in order of install from 1-6. I am just a guy with the clamps and glue he sent to use doing the easy parts. The flat packs are well packed against damage just like the 3x8" H-Frames were.

Just glue up the entire 1x12" module at one time and clamp it, so everything goes together and fits before drying. It really is that simple.

Now to figure out what finish to eventually put on them. Not really needed in my listening area, but would make them look cool.

Guy 13 · « **Reply #216 on:** 19 Apr 2015, 01:25 pm »

Quote from: HAL on 18 Apr 2015, 12:41 pm

Ruben really did make these easy to assemble with markings on each 1x12" module for correct orientation of all the pieces and numbered in order of install from 1-6. I am just a guy with the clamps and glue he sent to use doing the easy parts. The flat packs are well packed against damage just like the 3x8" H-Frames were.

Just glue up the entire 1x12" module at one time and clamp it, so everything goes together and fits before drying. It really is that simple.

Now to figure out what finish to eventually put on them. Not really needed in my listening area, but would make them look cool.

Hi HAL,
what do you mean " Now to figure out what finish to eventually put on them.
Not really needed in my listening area "
You cannot do that !

Those work of art from Ruben deserve to be dess-up with some nice paint,
don't you think so ?

Guy 13

HAL · « **Reply #217 on:** 19 Apr 2015, 02:01 pm »

Guy13,
I am talking to folks about doing the cabinet finishing. I asked Ruben about what to use and will be talking to them after going to Axpona this week. All depends on price and timeframe at this point.

Still thinking about Ferrari Red with Racing stripes for my pair. If not, maybe black Duratex like Danny sells. Very durable finish.

Guy 13 · « **Reply #218 on:** 19 Apr 2015, 02:23 pm »

Quote from: HAL on 19 Apr 2015, 02:01 pm

Guy13,
I am talking to folks about doing the cabinet finishing. I asked Ruben about what to use and will be talking to them after going to Axpona this week. All depends on price and timeframe at this point.

Still thinking about Ferrari Red with Racing stripes for my pair. If not, maybe black Duratex like Danny sells. Very durable finish.

Hi HAL, that's good to read.
Here it's 9.30pm, so now after reading what you wrote,
I can go to bed and sleep tight...

Guy 13

Ferrari Red, Ferrari Red, Ferrari Red....

Outofthewoods · « **Reply #219 on:** 19 Apr 2015, 03:00 pm »

Quote from: HAL on 17 Apr 2015, 03:53 pm

There are two bolt holes on the top and bottom of each module. Only top and bottom have one pair. Came with enough bolts, washers and nuts to hold them all together once stacked.

The thin relief shims that go between layers do need to be drilled to match up with the holes. Those are needed so the grill will fit on front. If no grills, then bolt away.

Hi Rich,

Actually, those holes are for the wire runs. You will need to drill the bolt holes. 2 bolts in front and 2 in back. Drill the holes approx. 1 1/4" in from the front edge and 1 1/4" out from inside face of the side panels. The exact location in either direction isn't critical. Just make sure you can get the drill at a 90 degree angle before you lay out the hole locations. The straighter you drill the holes, the flatter the bolt/nuts will sit on the washers. I decided not to drill them before shipping because there is a little play in the dowel holes and dadoes. If I drilled them here with everything lined up perfectly and there was a little variation once you got them glued up, the side panels would not line up the same way once bolted together. Leaving them un-drilled allows some forgiveness in your glue up. If they weren't perfectly aligned during assembly it doesn't matter. You just need to line up the side panels, clamp one module to the one below it and drill your holes.

The 3/32" set back on the 3/4" top and bottoms from the face of the side panels and the 1/8" reveal between each module not only look nice, but are designed to allow some slight misalignment without being noticeable.

Thanks for taking us all through the build process, Rich. It's fun to watch.

Really looking forward to seeing them finished and reading about your impressions on how they sound.

Ruben