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There are those over on the AVS forum who say that all amps sound the same. You might as well go with the cheapest amp because the only important spec. is the power output. Pro amps like the iNuke are the favorite over there. Many also claim that tubes just add distortion so SS is the only way to go.
I can't provide a specific link without devoting more time than I want. However, at least in this thread, http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1291022-hey-guys-we-need-little-rallying-here.html, there have been many posts that imply that amps aren't that important as long as they have enough power. Definitely, the very inexpensive iNuke is a favorite there. $150 gets you 2 x 300 Watts into 4 Ohms. http://www.behringer.com/EN/Products/NU1000.aspx. I'm not saying I agree with this, to my thinking an extreme position, but it's a highly prevalent opinion among those in the home theater crowd. They tend to think that the speaker is by far the most important component.
The DIY Subwoofer guys use Pro Sound Amps (Crown etc.). For subs they're fine (assuming high damping factor), except for the fan noise.
I suppose it is tempting, if the only tool you have is a hammer, to treat everything as if it were a nail. by Abraham Maslow, The Psychology of Science, 1966.http://positive-feedback.com/Issue74/duelund.htmBest,Anand.
Considering the dollar value of that "upgrade", I would think the next step would be to compare the change to fully active bi-amp with an external xover. That should be a plug and play exchange with just minor tweaking.
Wow. I just breezed through the article. I can't imagine why anyone would want to spend that kind of money to build a passive crossover. Two quality amps like Music Reference and an active crossover just makes a lot more sense. I don't know why audiophiles are so hung up on passive crossovers.
I agree that an active crossover is a far better solution and requires less money and less effort, though a different kind of effort. My take on it is that people dont really understand active crossovers. The main concern I hear is that they fear the electronics in the crossover will add coloration, that they will not be as good as a neutral line amp. What people don't understand is that the electronics in a crossover are more neutral than a line amp as they usually have no gain at all. It is well established that speaker crossover components have serious drawbacks by their nature. Coils have resistance which reduces woofer damping. If they are wound on iron they have hysteresis and saturation problems. Capacitors have dialectical absorption and ESR problems. All these problems are eliminated by the electronic crossover. A further advantage of electronic crossovers is that they have level controls for the individual drivers which allow one to tune the system to his room and preferences. I trim my levels at will just a bit for different recordings. If something is too bright I turn down the tweeter. If I want more bass I turn up the woofer. Inter-modulation distortion is almost eliminated and one can now choose amplifiers for their characteristics to please the individual drivers. The woofer amp should have high damping and more power than the tweeter amp which can now be something single ended if that is desired. Single ended amps have certain virtues in the mid range and highs. They are generally not preferable for woofers. I think the main reason is laziness. It is easier to replace a few crossover parts than buy and wire up a bi-amp system. However in the case of the PF article over $18,000 and considerable effort was expended for a less than perfect solution. I would love to hear from others who modify speaker crossovers what keeps them from going to active crossovers.
OK. In theory, active crossovers make a lot of sense. Speakers such as those by Meridian and ATC have active powered models, and are widely recognized as some of the best sounding speakers available. So, it makes me wonder: Why is it speaker companies do not offer a active crossover to go with their speakers?I am interested in making a quality two way crossover (at 80 Hz) for my tube setup. I would then have a lower powered tube amp made for the HF to go with the ATC SCM 19 speakers. There really isn't many available on the commercial market. The only one I can think of that is reasonably priced is this one:http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/high-end-crossover.htmlGuess I should look for a good schematic for a tube crossover.
I have the RM-3 which is a good SS crossover capable of slopes up to 24 dB/octave, any alignment as the crossover components are on plug in cards. The high pass is all discrete push pull transistor and the low pass is IC. If you are sold on tube crossovers you should check our Marchand Electronics. His crossover is modular and you can buy just the boards or kits for less. It is a good unit, I have worked on one. For simple 6 dB per octave you can just put caps and resistors at the input jacks of the amps. A tube active crossover is easy to build. You just need a few cathode followers and appropriate filter components. As to your question: Speaker companies are not electronics companies. They really don't know much about active circuits, they live in a passive world. If one approached me I would be happy to make what they needed.
For simple 6 dB per octave you can just put caps and resistors at the input jacks of the amps.
I think I know the answer to this, but just for confirmation:Suppose I wanted to put the highpass (6 dB) on one of the outputs of the pre-amp, instead of inside the amp. Do I need to consider the characteristics of the interconnect as part of the calculation, or is that just noise. Also, since the pre outputs are just a parallel circuit, will the change in the aggregate load at low freqs affect the other output?
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