[JP78]

Would there be a possible to have a reduction in price by deleting the side panels?  They're obviously very good looking and it's clear there's quite a bit that goes into making them. Some sort of Exotica basic model with simple finishes?

[jsalk]

Would there be a possible to have a reduction in price by deleting the side panels?  They're obviously very good looking and it's clear there's quite a bit that goes into making them. Some sort of Exotica basic model with simple finishes?

That might be possible, although the main reason for them is to simplify and build of the internal cabinets and thicken the walls in the woofer section (to make the cabinet more inert). 

We could possibly build cabinets like the SS8's, but it wouldn't lower the costs all that much.  The drivers are more expensive as is the powered woofer section.

- Jim

[jdoyle]

That might be possible, although the main reason for them is to simplify and build of the internal cabinets and thicken the walls in the woofer section (to make the cabinet more inert). 

We could possibly build cabinets like the SS8's, but it wouldn't lower the costs all that much.  The drivers are more expensive as is the powered woofer section.

- Jim

Another vote for making them more "SS8" like,  regardless of what the cost turns out to be...  I just prefer box speakers and your veneer selections are awesome on those styles

~jd

[ricardojoa]

I know i wont be able to afford the exoctica3, but i would give my IMO,
How about switching the tweeter and mid, so that the tweeter would be at the bottom, this way, the tower can be made a little higher. The gold one at axpona give me an impression of shortness specially when the bottom side are wider. To me, towers that stand tall are very nice looking. As far as stiffening the cabinets with simplify cabinet works, how about some birch ply. I think they are a little more expensive then mdf, but could be jutified in the exoctica.

[sfox7076]

If you come up with an SS8 design, I think you get my order.  I think that the thickness doesn't bother me.  It's the side panels...  Don't love the look.

[JonnyFive]

I already sit slightly above the tweeter in my SS8s, so it doesn't make sense for me to go shorter.  I would want an SS8-like cabinet for the E3s.

The SS8 has a nice looking cabinet, IMO.  If you could get multiple speakers re-using that same body, a less-skilled employee could produce the same cabinet all day long.  That would be very efficient.

I'm curious about the WMT vs WTM design.  Maybe Dennis could chime in a bit about this?

[jsalk]

If you come up with an SS8 design, I think you get my order.  I think that the thickness doesn't bother me.  It's the side panels...  Don't love the look.

Well, there is absolutely nothing preventing us from producing a pair with SS8-type cabinets.  They would work just fine and we could do that now. 

In fact, that seems to be the consensus as to what people would prefer.  In that case, it is probably the direction we will go on these. 

The only other thought expressed in this thread was to separate the tweeter/midrange and woofer sections.  We can certainly do that on a custom basis as well.  But that means four cabinets vs. two, so the cost would be slightly higher.

- Jim

[jsalk]

I'm curious about the WMT vs WTM design.  Maybe Dennis could chime in a bit about this?

I would have to do some math to see if that would work.  The spacing between the midrange and the woofers is critical and is based on the crossover frequency.  With the midrange on top, the woofers may have to be moved up creating more of a floor bounce issue.  I would have to model it to see if this is a viable option.

That said, there is nothing preventing us from increasing the height of a cabinet like the SS8 cabinet so that a top mounted tweeter could be higher with respect to ear level.  That is not an issue and may even be a benefit in terms of providing additional woofer section volume.

- Jim

[Big Red Machine]

Can you rework my cabinets, seal the woofer section, plug the passives, fit the tweeter and midrange?

[DMurphy]

I would have to do some math to see if that would work.  The spacing between the midrange and the woofers is critical and is based on the crossover frequency.  With the midrange on top, the woofers may have to be moved up creating more of a floor bounce issue.  I would have to model it to see if this is a viable option.

That said, there is nothing preventing us from increasing the height of a cabinet like the SS8 cabinet so that a top mounted tweeter could be higher with respect to ear level.  That is not an issue and may even be a benefit in terms of providing additional woofer section volume.

- Jim

Jim is absolutely correct about the midrange-woofer distance issue.  I'm not sure where the crossover is set now (it's not part of the passive network, which only applies to the mid-tweet cross).  The lower the cross, the less of an issue it is.  But if the distance is too wide, it's very difficult to get the woofer-mid phase relationships correct over a range of listening distances.   The phase can flip on you, causing a disjointed presentation that just doesn't sound right.   On the other hand, it's not a good idea to end up with a listening position that is much above the tweeter.  That causes the mid and tweet to go our of phase with each other, causing a hole at the crossover frequency.   Jim is also correct about the floor bounce issue.  He sent me a frequency response plot that showed virtually no floor bounce cancellation with the current woofer location.  Putting all this together, the best solution is to move the mid-tweet assembly up a little, but not so much that there is an issue with the woofer-mid spread. 

[jsalk]

Can you rework my cabinets, seal the woofer section, plug the passives, fit the tweeter and midrange?

I don't know if the midrange/tweeter section of the cabinet is tall enough to accommodate an 8" midrange.  And I'm not sure if there would be enough volume in the woofer section.  So it may not be possible. 

But that is a moot point.  It would probably be more work to do this than simply build a new cabinet.

- Jim

[Vulcan00]

I saw this photo here on AC and copied it to compare:



1. So are the EX-3's going to match SS8 in height? or 1 or 2 inch higher?
2. The EX-3's look to be 2" greater in width?
3. Change the EX-3's to SS8 plinths? Looks like the plinth change would add an inch to height?

This looks like a winner to me.

[JonnyFive]

Can you rework my cabinets, seal the woofer section, plug the passives, fit the tweeter and midrange?

This would probably be more expensive than selling the SS8s, taking a loss, and buying new E3s? 

[jsalk]

This would probably be more expensive than selling the SS8s, taking a loss, and buying new E3s? 

I don't know.  But it is a moot point anyway.  I just measured the height of the midrange/tweeter section in the SS8's and it is about 6" shorter than it needs to be to accommodate the E3 drivers.  So it wouldn't work anyway.

- Jim

[Vulcan00]

Ive been thinking about the cabinet.

I think I would like a modular arrangement best. Not sure how to implement the wires between the cabinet and if the tweeter -mid range cabinet sits on top you would need a suitable material to protect surfaces. Being able to better handle the weight by distributing between two cabinets is an attractive option. Also maybe some advantage to placement. Different wall thicknesses of the cabinet could be an advantage.

The single box would be less expensive and most will opt for this design.

[sfox7076]

What would be the dimensions of a box speaker version?   

[jackman]

A modular design would be easier to transport (lighter individual boxes) but would be more costly to produce and would require you to ship more boxes.  As far as what to put between the monitor cabs and woofers, I have a modular system and use those half moon sorbothane balls. They dampen energy from the woofer cabinets and protect the finish.  They are also inexpensive  and unobtrusive. I've tried several things in the past including sheets if sorbothane and spikes. Sorbothane half balls (round side up, flat side down) work very well. 

Jim is a master craftsman and I'm certain a modular version of this speaker would look as stunning as any of Jim's creations. I'm curious as to how it would affect the price.

[Gzerro]

A modular design would be easier to transport (lighter individual boxes) but would be more costly to produce and would require you to ship more boxes.  As far as what to put between the monitor cabs and woofers, I have a modular system and use those half moon sorbothane balls. They dampen energy from the woofer cabinets and protect the finish.  They are also inexpensive  and unobtrusive. I've tried several things in the past including sheets if sorbothane and spikes. Sorbothane half balls (round side up, flat side down) work very well. 

Jim is a master craftsman and I'm certain a modular version of this speaker would look as stunning as any of Jim's creations. I'm curious as to how it would affect the price.

Just a note of caution to NOT use Sorbothane directly on finished wood surfaces. Over time it will leave a mark. The bottom of my (Salk) center speaker has permanent damage from using pieces of a sorbothane sheet underneath.

Some barrier between the sorbothane and wood veneer finish will prevent the problem (plastic wrap, foam, thick paper etc). Some sorbothane products may be treated and work without causing damage, but definitely not all.

Tom

[mdfoy]

I find the that the use of Herbie's products is the way to go for most isolation related ills

[robcentola]

Chatter on this project has died down a bit.  Are there any updates? I'm a couple of upgrades away, but still very curious as to how this model turns out. I find it very interesting to witness this process and everyone's thoughts on the design, not to mention the designer open to feedback. I'm really looking forward to the outcome!