[*Scotty*]

One more worthwhile parts substitution is change the Nichion Muse power supply caps to Nichicon Polymer Aluminum Solid Electrolytic Capacitors. This is the Nichicon equivalent of the Panasonic/SANYO OSCON capacitor. A good parts value to use would be a 330uF 25V capacitor in place of the 220uF 50V Nichicon Muse.
 Here a link to the cap . http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/RNU1E331MDN1PH/?qs=XWkdDCH0I5WEsbEzOc0DXg%3d%3d
Scotty

[jtwrace]

I can't make my iphone or gallery photo make that upright... Sorry.

 

[Folsom]

Scotty, it's not a DAC, I'd be surprised if those sound better than the Muse.

Good news, it's much quieter than my Bugle. It's better in the first minute, and my Bugle is tricked out. The RF is vastly lower.

The gain could be a bit more, but I wouldn't consider not replacing my Bugle because of that.

As you can see signal is LDR and PRP on this BH. It's not stock, which would be mediocure with cheap input resistors.

I can't comment on not burned in stuff to much, but it sounds like wonderful upgrade. Improved imaging and harmonics. Mids are laid back some, but voices are prominent.

By the way the seller is very good to communicate with.

P.S. The LDR power wires are longer because you have to unsolder one leg to set them.

[*Scotty*]

At about $12 delivered, this is a rather inexpensive experiment. I use these caps for all local decoupling applications to good effect. I have found these to be considerably better than Blackgates in power supply applications and they can be purchased for cheap, unlike the now discontinued Blackgates.
 They are also very good for coupling cap applications if leakage current is not a problem.
Scotty
 

[Folsom]

My question is how do they sound feeding signal transistors/amps/opamps? I wouldn't hesitate for a moment to use them for digital.

I guess I want examples. 

BH is sounding better after every minute. The least to say is I am impressed.

[jtwrace]

My question is how do they sound feeding signal transistors/amps/opamps? I wouldn't hesitate for a moment to use them for digital.

I guess I want examples. 

BH is sounding better after every minute. The least to say is I am impressed.

What cartridge are you using?

[Folsom]

What cartridge are you using?

Goldring 1012 I think. I've planned on getting one of Frank's green longhorns though. This one only sounds good without antiskate weight. It doesn't sound like much with it. I also got a thick Herbies under it (not a joke, huge upgrade).

Scotty I dug a little. I wouldn't use those because of chance of oscillation, in a circuit that dumps multiple frequency ranges to ground, and a few lengthy runs. I think they're better suited to digital and discrete non-jfet transistors and such that primarily do coupling in less of audio range (higher like RF).

[*Scotty*]

I am using them as the DC blocking caps in the feedback loop my phono stage and and in my power amp. The DC blocking cap takes the place of a DC servo in these circuit's feedback loop. My preamp and DAC also have these type of caps as the output stage coupling caps. I think they sound great in my all solid state system, one mans opinion of course. They are the most transparent coupling cap I have found so far for solid state circuits requiring a large value cap to preserve low frequency extension.
 When they are used as local decoupling caps in analogue circuits the highs have a better extension and cleaner reproduction than with other caps. There is also a more complete harmonic envelope present from top to bottom.  A good combination is Panasonic FM series caps for the bulk of the power supply value and then bypass them with the Nichicon OS-CON type caps if they are available in appropriate voltage rating.
Scotty

[Folsom]

I'll have to keep them in mind. But I'm thinking class D application.

At present I've decided to move toward other caps than panasonics. They're good and dirt cheap, but I'm so much more impressed with Gold/Super Tunes and Muse or Silmic II's for lower values.

[WireNut]

I think this would make for a good DIY build thread here on AC, especially with the LDR resistors 
What else do we have at this price range, Vista and Bugle.

[mgalusha]

One more worthwhile parts substitution is change the Nichion Muse power supply caps to Nichicon Polymer Aluminum Solid Electrolytic Capacitors. This is the Nichicon equivalent of the Panasonic/SANYO OSCON capacitor. A good parts value to use would be a 330uF 25V capacitor in place of the 220uF 50V Nichicon Muse.
 Here a link to the cap . http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/RNU1E331MDN1PH/?qs=XWkdDCH0I5WEsbEzOc0DXg%3d%3d
Scotty

My only concern is for those pushing against the maximum rail voltage. The allowable rail voltage on the BHL phono pre is 24V, a bit too close to the 25V limit of the listed cap. Might be fine but I like a little more margin.

[*Scotty*]

My recommendation assumed that the phono kit was being used with the Boozhound power supply kit which is an 18V DC supply rail.
Scotty

[mgalusha]

My recommendation assumed that the phono kit was being used with the Boozhound power supply kit which is an 18V DC supply rail.

I think most are, but since it said up to 24V, that is where I went, as much headroom as possible. Mine may be even be slightly more than that, I used a 24V LiFePO4 battery pack without a regulator, very low noise and ZOut but at full charge it may slightly exceed 24V, been some time since I've had the cover off and measured it so my old brain has fuzzed it out.

[Folsom]

I can tell you that 15v doesn't sound bad. That's what my current PSU is regulated to, but I think I might just let it run unregulated and see how it sounds at 17-18v.

[mgalusha]

I can tell you that 15v doesn't sound bad. That's what my current PSU is regulated to, but I think I might just let it run unregulated and see how it sounds at 17-18v.

It sounds good at most voltages, I initially used a HP lab supply and tried it between 12 and 24V. I just happen to have a "thing" for headroom.

[neobop]

How much current does this need?  You could probably power it off 2 - 9V smoke detector batteries? 

Maybe it would sound better with more juice, like 3 or 4 - 6V lantern batteries.  What about 2 - 12V car batteries, overkill?

I'm thinking about having the ability to recharge and the benefits of getting off the AC line.
neo

[mgalusha]

How much current does this need?  You could probably power it off 2 - 9V smoke detector batteries? 

Maybe it would sound better with more juice, like 3 or 4 - 6V lantern batteries.  What about 2 - 12V car batteries, overkill?

I'm thinking about having the ability to recharge and the benefits of getting off the AC line.
neo

It draws very little current, on the order of 20mA I think, that is why I'm using the LiFePO4 batteries, unless I forget to turn it off I don't have to charge it very often. Wikipedia mentions 9V alkaline batteries are specified at 565mAh, so at 20mA that is 28 hours and change. Lithium is listed as 1200, so about double the life of the alkaline version if one was going that way.

[jtwrace]

It draws very little current, on the order of 20mA I think, that is why I'm using the LiFePO4 batteries, unless I forget to turn it off I don't have to charge it very often. Wikipedia mentions 9V alkaline batteries are specified at 565mAh, so at 20mA that is 28 hours and change. Lithium is listed as 1200, so about double the life of the alkaline version if one was going that way.

Current draw is less than 50 mA accoridng to the data sheet.  Last page, thrid paragraph.  FWIW.   

[mgalusha]

Current draw is less than 50 mA accoridng to the data sheet.  Last page, thrid paragraph.  FWIW.   

Yes. It used to say 20mA. It will depend on the particular JFETs. Mine is actually closer to 15mA.

[jtwrace]

Yes. It used to say 20mA. It will depend on the particular JFETs. Mine is actually closer to 15mA.

What size AH battery are you using?