[Luigi]

Hello out there
I was reading some of the ravings of Gizmo  the other day, and he mentioned that subs sound best on stands. Which was news to me.

So I grabbed my small sealed sub (it has a downfacing Lambda 1204 driver) and popped it on to of my equipment rack. It looks a little alien   up there but the boominess typical of a sub in a corner has gone, and is replaced by what sounds more like tight punchy bass, ie, the bass is less obviously from a standalone sub. There's not the room loading effect like there was in the corner, but the quality seems much better. It may be that the difference is just that the sub is between the speakers but really I think Gizmo may have been onto something here. More experimenting with subs on stands seems in order.

Im building another sealed sub at present to see how stereo units sound, supposedly the best way to go. Meantime, all you subs… get up stand up, stand up for more life.

[Kenobi]

Hi there,

I too have found that my subs (B&W ASW800, Sunfire Tru Sub IV) sounds fast and non-boomy when set on a set of Lovan 6" Jazz speaker stand.  One tends to hear the signal and not the smearing and repercussion of the bass notes as compared to when placed on the floor w/ even their own footers.  Overall effect is great--bass note starts and stops quickly, distinctly and unobtrusively.  Makes my system sound a whole lot cleaner and much more enjoyable.

 

[Red Dragon Audio]

I think the reason it may sound less boomy is because you have taken it from a corner on the floor (this is probably where most bass boom comes from) and just removed some of the "corner loading" you were used to.

I know ASC has a stand specifically for subwoofers that is also a bass trap (same for speakers too I think).  ASC says you can calculate the best elevation from the floor for any sub.

http://www.asc-home-theater.com/subtrap.htm

ASC article on subtrap theories and explanations:
http://www.acousticsciences.com/subtrap.pdf

Anyway, I think that is a fun experiment to try and cheap!

[John Casler]

Luigi,

I think much of the "new thinking" on subs is to load at ear level and then treat the room well.

That's why a few days ago I posted about my SUBWOOFER fantasy of stacking 3 pair of VMPS Larger subs.

That would raise the highest sub over 46" high.

But what is also important in a stand is that the front of the stand is "solid" all the way to the floor.  This will save your deep bass impact without adding boominess, by providing a boundary for the energy wave to follow.

[mcgsxr]

Interesting.

I have a sub that I am currently using in my room, that used to live in my car.  It is a sealed 12 in a 1.5 ft box.  It is rectangular, with the driver on the long face, but at one end.

Theoretically I could turn the box, so that the 12 is up near my Totems (on their 24 inch stands) and gain some of the benefits you are discussing?

It is not shielded, and close to my TV, so presently, I have it close to the ground.  I will experiment, and see if the driver's proximity affects my screen - if not, I will play with this configuration, and see if it makes a difference in my room.

Mark

[Gordy]

Hello All,

Not all of the reduction in boominess is due simply to less cornerloading apparently.  I placed my downfiring sub on a 18"x22"x3" faux granite slab (a former analytical scale tabletop) and found a big increase in bass clarity.  The granite slab is floated on a 3/4" plywood board using tennis balls (which need replacing! superballs maybe?). The sub was/is located about 3 ft. from the front wall and 5 ft./8ft. from the side walls.  

Keep in mind that I have suspended and carpeted floors, but I've been assuming the improvements to a better sound board, increased effective mass(?), a slight increase in height, and decoupling from the floor.  So far I'm of the belief that the decoupling is hugely important as vibration is greatly reduced to both the main speakers and all my electronics, including tube cd and pre.

Comments?  Rebuttals?

Heavystarch, Thanks for the ACS link   The bass stands/traps look easy to build using cardboard tube cement forms available at Lowe's etc. and fiberglass insulation

Gordy

[Red Dragon Audio]

Gordy,

I'm planning to do a couple of these subtraps myself (a little DIY project that should cost more than $40-$50 at most I figure).

Corner loading can be good and bad.  It helps boost the bass but can add boom like you said.  This why these subtraps are such a good idea; they lift the subs to lessen the boom, as well as absorb some of the remaining boom.

If I have time this weekend I will post how it goes.

 

[Gordy]

I'll be looking forward to your impressions!  I'm putting together a front firing sub and will eventually decide my preference and go active/stereo.  Those stands are lookin' very cool if the front firing subs win out

As the outer shell is a 'resonator', do you plan on making it of relatively thin plywood/mdf, say 1/2"?

Thanks!
Gordy

[Kenobi]

My subwoofer positions remained unchanged (still in the corner) but boom is gone due to the Lovan stands being the only addition/change.