[Poultrygeist]

My latest TPA3110 in a case I picked up at Michael's. 

Originally it was in a bamboo enclosure I now use for a TPA3116.

In my haste to try out the 3116 I discounted the 3110 but that was a mistake. With the 93db Fostex's the 3110 is remarkable.

[Poultrygeist]

I elevated the tiny board so it's good looks are not lost inside.

[Poultrygeist]

[murphy11]

I elevated the tiny board so it's good looks are not lost inside.

That silver face plate matching the elevated board and High Fidelity lettering looks really cool! Nice attention to detail.

[MCM_Fan]

Well, I finally got my first TPA3116 blue/black board up and running this morning.  This is a modded board that has Radio Shack input caps, Panasonic supply caps and Bourns inductors.

To speed things up, I didn't bother hooking up the on/off switch or volume pot. I set it up in the guest bedroom driving a pair of vintage Dynaco A25 speakers.  I was streaming to an Airport Express through a FiiO Taishan D03K DAC.

This amp (and the Airport Express and FiiO DAC) will be a birthday gift for my youngest daughter and will be dedicated to streaming.  There will be no other sources used with this amp.

With the amp gain set at the default 26dB, here's what I noticed.  Using the volume control on my tablet, 50% volume level would be a comfortable "normal" listening level for a medium size bedroom (intended location), 75% is quite loud and 100% would drive my ex-wife crazy.

And that's driving the 8 ohm, rather inefficient Dynacos (not sure of the exact efficiency rating, but I've seen numbers in the 82 - 86 dB 1W@1m range).  She will be using them with a pair of Monitor Audio Bronze B1 speakers (6 ohm, 88 dB 1W@1m) - VERY nice sounding bookshelf speakers BTW.  I got them at Goodwill for $9.99 about a year ago and gave them to her (definitely a cheap and cheerful score).

I have the Panasonic potentiometer recommended by lacro and rhing, and the knob for the volume control, but given the application, I am considering making this build knobless.  Anyone else running their TPA3116 without a volume control knob (or preamp) and just using the volume control on their tablet/phone/iPod to adjust the volume?

If I hadn't already drilled the hole in the back panel for the toggle switch, I'd also consider leaving that off as well.  I could either power it off a power strip with a built-in switch, or just leave it on 24/7.   Any drawback to doing so?  I assume idle current is quite low, probably lower than a nightlight.

That would be a true minimum build with no knob or switch.

I may leave the front face plate completely blank, or maybe add a small green LED to match the green LED on the Airport Express.

My first impression was favorable.  I let it run for about 45 minutes at 85% volume and the heat sink on the TPA3116 wasn't even mildly warm.  Good to know, as this will be going in a small case (Context Engineering 3008) with no ventilation.  It sounds great so far, but I'm anxious to see how it sounds after burn-in (if it makes any difference).  I also listened to it a little using my Sansui TU-919 as a source (it has a front mounted output level control knob).  I may build a separate volume control box like lacro, or just wait until I complete the next build, but I really want to hear how this little amp sounds with SACD source material.

Here's a (crappy cell phone) photo of this work in progress...



I still need to shorten and twist the leads and mount the board in the case.  Should finish that tonight.  I'll post a better photo once I do.

[rhing]

Nice looking start MCM_Fan. You should be okay with using a tablet as a source. Just be sure the amp is not powered on when you're connecting and disconnecting the tablet. Otherwise, you'll hear ugly ground loops and loud pops. That's usually good enough reason to have a volume pot to protect your speakers.

Here is a photo of my ChengZhi-made 2.0 TPA3116D2 amp compliments of shadowlight--thanks. I used the Leviton binding posts from Lowes that Poultrygeist recommended and added some spare RCA jacks from a Chinese tube amp I had modded a few years ago. The cable and 3-pin connector came with the amp. Anyway, this amp sounds pretty good, maybe as good as the stock YJ blue amp. I have no idea how much this amp costs, or even if it's still available overseas through Aliexpress. I was tempted to put in some new electrolytic caps to replace the Sanyo Oscon-like purple caps and stick in some other input coupling caps, but this unit sounds pretty good as-is, so I'll leave it alone for the time being. I just got a bunch of high-end vinyl from Acoustic Sounds, and it sounds great playing through this amp in my system.



Not sure what all the extra circuitry is with the two small electrolytic caps and additional resistors, but I believe someone on another forum mentioned it might be a circuit to reduce the turn-on/turn-off thump problem that some have experienced with other TPA3116 amps. I don't hear any turn-on/turn-off thumps with this amp, so maybe it really is working.

Thanks again shadowlight. I delayed building this, but now I'm glad I finally put some parts together.

[DaveC113]

Hi guys, I was considering getting a couple of these 3116 that are bridged to drive a pair of JBL 2226 15" woofers at 97 dB and 8 ohms... what do you think? Seems like it'll work but I wonder if I should just get something with more power. It'll be used in a biamped system with a very clean sounding SET amp and either active or speaker level crossovers, I will experiment with both over time.

What I'm seeing is that the power level of 100W is given at 2 ohms, so I may only get 25W at 8 ohms? If so I may look at some more powerful boards. Any recs for something 100W at 8ohms or more?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121294927725?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

[Markvdv]

Rhing: can you post a picture of lower part of Chengzhi board taken from straight above it? Or could you tell to what pins of tpa chip the added transistors (circuitry) lead?

[Poultrygeist]

Hi guys, I was considering getting a couple of these 3116 that are bridged to drive a pair of JBL 2226 15" woofers at 97 dB and 8 ohms... what do you think? Seems like it'll work but I wonder if I should just get something with more power. It'll be used in a biamped system with a very clean sounding SET amp and either active or speaker level crossovers, I will experiment with both over time.

What I'm seeing is that the power level of 100W is given at 2 ohms, so I may only get 25W at 8 ohms? If so I may look at some more powerful boards. Any recs for something 100W at 8ohms or more?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121294927725?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

For my 97db woofers in a bi-amped system I need more power than two 3116 can produce. You'd be better off with a 200 watt plate amp.

[rhing]

Rhing: can you post a picture of lower part of Chengzhi board taken from straight above it? Or could you tell to what pins of tpa chip the added transistors (circuitry) lead?

I'll take one this evening, but my main camera is my iPhone 5, so I can't guarantee the clearest photo. This amp sounds pretty good in stock form. It's too bad the manufacturer -- ChengZhi or Feixang -- doesn't offer this through eBay. Some people on another forum had purchased these amps from a certain seller on either Aliexpress or Tao Bao, and they were later notified the amp wasn't shipping due to technical problems. I'm not sure if this really was the case, because I didn't hear any problems with this amp. I thought the 470uF DC decoupling caps might not provide enough bass and dynamics, but this amp has plenty of low end. It's not the tightest bass, and it can probably be improved. I'll give this amp more time to settle in.

[DaveC113]

For my 97db woofers in a bi-amped system I need more power than two 3116 can produce. You'd be better off with a 200 watt plate amp.

Thanks, that was what I was thinking...

[Markvdv]

 Txs rhing. And here is another I didn't notice before, cheap 2.0 boxed, sure to come to ebay soon I guess:

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=38444593863

[Doublej]

Txs rhing. And here is another I didn't notice before, cheap 2.0 boxed, sure to come to ebay soon I guess:

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=38444593863

Already there, Amazon too!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SMSL-SA-36A-TA2020-High-grade-HIFI-Digital-Amplifier-S-/120708040057

http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-SA-36A-Tripath-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00A2QLC0O

[MCM_Fan]

Txs rhing. And here is another I didn't notice before, cheap 2.0 boxed, sure to come to ebay soon I guess:

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=38444593863

That looks really interesting.  The connector placement is exactly the same as the little TPA3116 I just finished last night, but this is a totally different PCB design, with placement optimized for connectors in those locations.  The ONLY thing I could read in the product description is "Texas Instruments TDA3118D2DAP".  So, this isn' t an assembled version of the TPA3116 many of us are building/modding in this thread.

A quick check at the TI web site shows that the TPA3118 is lower power (30W) than the TPA3116 that does not require a heat sink.  It seems like most people jumped from the even lower power TPA3110 all the way up to the TPA3116.  The TPA3118 offers an lower power option for those running fairly efficient speakers.

For now, I'm happy with my DIY TPA3116, but the amp listed at the link above looks like a good option for those who aren't comfortable with the DIY approach.

[MCM_Fan]

Already there, Amazon too!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SMSL-SA-36A-TA2020-High-grade-HIFI-Digital-Amplifier-S-/120708040057

http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-SA-36A-Tripath-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00A2QLC0O

Same brand, and similar appearance, but these are both class T Tripath amps, not class D designs based on the TI TPA311* series.  Compact, inexpensive assembled class T Tripath amps have been available for several years from several brands (Lepai, being the most ubiquitous) and several sources (Parts Express, eBay, Amazon, etc.).  What many here are anxiously waiting for are similar products based on the class D TI TPA311* series.

[Markvdv]

SMSL PRO version of 36A is TPA311x family, 3118's heatsink pad is on pcb side. Under some conditions the heat may limit power, but it is the same chip as 3116 otherwise. My 3116 (3110 also) never gets warm even, so for me 3118=3116 I guess. Powergraphs in TI datasheets are for 3118 and 3116, same graph!!!

SMSL 36A PRO in Taobao link throught an taobao-agent is $35 including shipping, excluded laptopbrick. I wait for ebay because I trust ebay more.

[shadowlight]

I have no idea how much this amp costs, or even if it's still available overseas through Aliexpress.

I paid just under 11 dollars shipped to US and I bought it through buychina.com Taoboa agent.

http://www.buychina.com/products/18668674029

[Folsom]

For my 97db woofers in a bi-amped system I need more power than two 3116 can produce. You'd be better off with a 200 watt plate amp.

Perhaps, or a gain change might do it. Theoretically the amp would produce somewhere around 112db with them. The current needed won't be achieved with the stock capacitance however. 

[rajacat]

Hi guys, I was considering getting a couple of these 3116 that are bridged to drive a pair of JBL 2226 15" woofers at 97 dB and 8 ohms... what do you think? Seems like it'll work but I wonder if I should just get something with more power. It'll be used in a biamped system with a very clean sounding SET amp and either active or speaker level crossovers, I will experiment with both over time.

What I'm seeing is that the power level of 100W is given at 2 ohms, so I may only get 25W at 8 ohms? If so I may look at some more powerful boards. Any recs for something 100W at 8ohms or more?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121294927725?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

How about classDaudio?
http://classdaudio.com/amplifier-modules/cda-254-audio-amplifier-125w-x-2-8-ohm-250w-x-2-4-ohm.html

[MCM_Fan]

SMSL PRO version of 36A is TPA311x family, 3118's heatsink pad is on pcb side. Under some conditions the heat may limit power, but it is the same chip as 3116 otherwise. My 3116 (3110 also) never gets warm even, so for me 3118=3116 I guess. Powergraphs in TI datasheets are for 3118 and 3116, same graph!!!

SMSL 36A PRO in Taobao link throught an taobao-agent is $35 including shipping, excluded laptopbrick. I wait for ebay because I trust ebay more.

For the SMSL products, I was going by the links the OP posted.  The products at those links are both Tripath TA2020 based amps, not TI TPA311* products.

Interesting data on the TPA3118.  So, basically the same die as the TPA3116, but packaged and marketed differently.  Is there something in the design (either on chip, or on board) that limits the power/current so it doesn't overheat.  They claim 30W with no heat sink versus 50W with heat sink for the TPA3116.  Of course, I prefer the higher power and heat sink for my application.  The input and supply caps both dwarf the heat sink on my boards.  So, giong without heat sink wouldn't buy me anything.  But, I can see portable, handheld applications where a low profile design without a heat sink would be preferable.