[Mr. Oczka]

I absolutely love this thread!  Lots of good info and ideas.  A while back I ordered a 3116 board with the volume control but failed to order a pre terminated rca cable.  I figured,  "what the heck, I'll solder the leads on to the board and connect it to my own RCA jacks."   Needless to say, I was successful, but the board looks really bad.  I'm very much a beginner......  I now would like to order a couple of the Yaun Jing 2.0 blue amp boards but would like to use a pre terminated rca cable to connect to my own RCA jacks.   Does anyone know where I can find an rca cable that has the required plastic connector?   Or better yet,  a store that I could order just the plastic connector?

The website shows 2 pre-terminated cables available, but I was hoping to use my own RCA Jacks.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,

Tom     

[rhing]

Rhing, it looks like it is a lot cleaner to use on on-board power supply rather than a laptop charger. Which power supply did you end up using? Was it hard to install? You finished enclosure looks great! I may end up building two amps, one with preamp and one without.

Anybody tried building a 6-channel amp (blue board) using one power supply?

I use an Astron RS-12A 13.8V regulated linear power supply that I purchased used through Craigslist. It's a great power supply that is built to last and it can put out up to 9A current continuously.

For multi-channel use off a single power supply, you will need to connect one amp as a master and the other amps as slaves. This is not very easily implemented and you would need to understand the physical layout of the Yuan Jing amp boards to make the correct connections if you felt it was worth the effort. I'm a 2-channel music lover and I have not had any need to go with a multi-channel application.

Why not replace the other 2 1ufs? FWIW I have some Radio Shacks in mine. They're a good PP cap FTM.

That's a great idea. I will implement this on my first amp. The one in your post is going to a friend who asked me to build one of these amps.

I absolutely love this thread!  Lots of good info and ideas.  A while back I ordered a 3116 board with the volume control but failed to order a pre terminated rca cable.  I figured,  "what the heck, I'll solder the leads on to the board and connect it to my own RCA jacks."   Needless to say, I was successful, but the board looks really bad.  I'm very much a beginner......  I now would like to order a couple of the Yaun Jing 2.0 blue amp boards but would like to use a pre terminated rca cable to connect to my own RCA jacks.   Does anyone know where I can find an rca cable that has the required plastic connector?   Or better yet,  a store that I could order just the plastic connector?

The website shows 2 pre-terminated cables available, but I was hoping to use my own RCA Jacks.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,

Tom   

Don't know about a cable, but you can buy the connectors and crimp terminations by searching the Web for "JST XH 3 Pin Connector" and "JST Crimp Connector," or you can purchase them from a reputable source like Digikey:

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=455-2219-ND
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=455-1135-1-ND

[OzarkTom]

Does anyone know of some world class diy linear powersupplies that would work well with these amps?

 

I have spent the last two years with the TBI Millenia amp. I tried all sorts of batteries and power supplies, 12v and 24v. The better sound is with a 12v battery than the 24v battery, the absolute best sound is with the Ten Tec 937 12v ham radio power supply. This is a linear power supply. They usually sell used for $35-65 on Ebay. There is one currently for sale at $65 or best offer. This PSU gives the biggest soundstage and most transparency than anything else I tried.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ten-Tec-Power-Supply-Model-937-Ham-Radio-/331150287159?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d1a186137

[Mr. Oczka]

Rhing,

Thank you for the information! 

tom

[OzarkTom]

And BTW, this Ten Tec linear power supply weighs a whopping 10 pounds for such a tiny unit. My buddy Rex has a $450 King Rex power supply we compared it to and the Ten Tec smoked it. The Ten Tec 937 puts out 11 amps. You need a very high quality linear power supply for ham radios. If this was built for audio, no doubt it would have a $500 price tag on it.

These TPA amps with the Ten Tec is absolutely incredible with Dennis Murphy's modded Pioneers. It makes you wonder, why ever spend more? TPA 3116 Amp $88, Ten Tec-$60 Murphy's Pioneers-$150, Oppo 980H $75-$100. For well less than $500 you have a complete killer system.

[wushuliu]

And BTW, this Ten Tec linear power supply weighs a whopping 10 pounds for such a tiny unit. My buddy Rex has a $450 King Rex power supply we compared it to and the Ten Tec smoked it. The Ten Tec 937 puts out 11 amps. You need a very high quality linear power supply for ham radios. If this was built for audio, no doubt it would have a $500 price tag on it.

These TPA amps with the Ten Tec is absolutely incredible with Dennis Murphy's modded Pioneers. It makes you wonder, why ever spend more? TPA 3116 Amp $88, Ten Tec-$60 Murphy's Pioneers-$150, Oppo 980H $75-$100. For well less than $500 you have a complete killer system.

Thanks for the heads up Tom

[Nick77]

Wildly curious about how these budget modules compare to the ClassD Audio SDS series amps??

Better chip?

[wushuliu]

Wildly curious about how these budget modules compare to the ClassD Audio SDS series amps??

Better chip?

Power differences aside, yes the TPA is an overall cleaner and clearer sounding amp - though I could see others preferring the CDA/SDS presentation.

[rajacat]

Are the TPA3110 and  TPS3116 obviously the best of the new modules? What about some of the higher powered options?

I'm in the process of building some bass bins which will use the AE TD15M 15" driver. These will be midbass drivers in sealed boxes which I'll actively cross to subs. However I will probably want to force extension of their reach down lower than the winISD numbers (f3 ~ 70hz) project for ~ 3.25 cu ft box. This will require some power. I'm not sure if the TPS3116 would run out gas in this application or not. The TD15M's are 98db efficient so in most cases the TPS3116 would supply plenty of power but since I'm doing the active crossover thing more oomph may be needed. I generally listen at moderate levels but like plenty of headroom.

I don't want to get too OT here but I'm looking for guidance on what's hot among the higher power modules with SQ being paramount. If I do get a higher powered unit, I'll start a separate thread.

[wushuliu]

Are the TPA3110 and  TPS3116 obviously the best of the new modules? What about some of the higher powered options?

I'm in the process of building some bass bins which will use the AE TD15M 15" driver. These will be midbass drivers in sealed boxes which I'll actively cross to subs. However I will probably want to force extension of their reach down lower than the winISD numbers (f3 ~ 70hz) project for ~ 3.25 cu ft box. This will require some power. I'm not sure if the TPS3116 would run out gas in this application or not. The TD15M's are 98db efficient so in most cases the TPS3116 would supply plenty of power but since I'm doing the active crossover thing more oomph may be needed. I generally listen at moderate levels but like plenty of headroom.

I don't want to get too OT here but I'm looking for guidance on what's hot among the higher power modules with SQ being paramount. If I do get a higher powered unit, I'll start a separate thread.

Not much out there on the higher output TI amps. Happyrabbit is building a TAS5xxx in the The Lab, you can check in with him.

[matt_garman]

So my 3116 YJ blue board has this issue: if the amp is powered on, but there are no inputs (or the input source is powered off), there is an audible hiss coming out of the speakers.  On the diyaudio forum, it was suggested to put 100k resistors across the inputs.  I did that, but the hiss remains.

My 3110 doesn't do this; in fact, since it draws so little power, I just leave it turned on all the time.  I was hoping to do the same with the 3116, but don't want to do that with the hiss.  Any suggestions on where I might look to trouble shoot this?  It completely goes away when the inputs are connected and the input source (DAC) is powered on (even if there is no actual music playing).

[wushuliu]

So here's my 3116 build. Pretty sloppy but since I am always tinkering I tend to leave things messy.




The sound quality of these amps can't be overstated.

[mboxler]

So here's my 3116 build. Pretty sloppy but since I am always tinkering I tend to leave things messy.




The sound quality of these amps can't be overstated.

Did you mention earlier that you bought those 1uf input caps from Radioshack?

[wushuliu]

Did you mention earlier that you bought those 1uf input caps from Radioshack?

Yes. I don't see them listed online anymore but there may still be some at a local store. I can't imagine anyone running to RS for polyprop caps so you maybe in luck. I have a fourth one somewhere but couldn't find it.

Might try some fancy caps later.

[wushuliu]

So my 3116 YJ blue board has this issue: if the amp is powered on, but there are no inputs (or the input source is powered off), there is an audible hiss coming out of the speakers.  On the diyaudio forum, it was suggested to put 100k resistors across the inputs.  I did that, but the hiss remains.

My 3110 doesn't do this; in fact, since it draws so little power, I just leave it turned on all the time.  I was hoping to do the same with the 3116, but don't want to do that with the hiss.  Any suggestions on where I might look to trouble shoot this?  It completely goes away when the inputs are connected and the input source (DAC) is powered on (even if there is no actual music playing).

Hm, dunno. You're saying it the hissing stops when the inputs are connected but the source is off as well?

[matt_garman]

Hm, dunno. You're saying it the hissing stops when the inputs are connected but the source is off as well?

No, the hissing stops when the source is on (regardless of music playing or not).  In other words:

No input connection = hiss
Input connection, source off = hiss
Input connection, source on = no hiss

Presumably, source connected but turned off is the same electrically as not connected, but I'm not 100% that's the case.  (Source is an original Cambridge Audio DACMagic FWIW.)

[flavo]

wushuliu
can I get a birds eye view of your build please?

[simoon]

So....

If there is a 2.1 version (2x50 watt + 1x100 watt) why is there no 100watt version?

Either a 2x100 or 1x100 mono version?

[wushuliu]

So....

If there is a 2.1 version (2x50 watt + 1x100 watt) why is there no 100watt version?

Either a 2x100 or 1x100 mono version?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TPA3116-Class-D-Power-Amplifier-Board-Support-STEREO-50Wx2-or-MONO-PBTL-100W-/121294927725?pt=US_Amplifier_Parts_Components&hash=item1c3dbdb76d

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Amplifier-board-TPA3116-Class-D-2x50W-The-only-with-speaker-protection-/161254188864?pt=US_Amplifier_Parts_Components&hash=item258b7fa740

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TPA3116-Class-D-Power-Amplifier-Board-DIY-KIT-STEREO-50Wx2-or-MONO-PBTL-100W-/121294940702?pt=US_Amplifier_Parts_Components&hash=item1c3dbdea1e

[wushuliu]

wushuliu
can I get a birds eye view of your build please?

If I'm feeling less lazy I'll pull it out and take a pic.

We're talking about my amp right?

ba dum bum!