[murphy11]

Thanks for saving me some money and time Glad I asked.

[Brad]

My TPA 3110 board and parts to assemble arrived yesterday from PartsExpress.
The pictures just don't clearly show how TINY this board is.

Cool ideas and thanks for this post to everyone who contributed 

[shadowlight]

If you are using shielded cable as hookup cable do you have to do anything special with shield portion or just solder the same way as +/-?

[mboxler]

The pictures just don't clearly show how TINY this board is.

I bought a "cheap plastic" 6" X 4" x 2" project box from Radioshack ($6).  Volume control and power switch on the front.  Rca's, binding posts, and DC power connector on the back.  12V laptop PS from Ebay ($9). 

Drives my little $80 Pioneers very well.

Mix in a  $250 Squeezebox Touch ...great little setup.

Mike
 

 

[rhing]

If you are using shielded cable as hookup cable do you have to do anything special with shield portion or just solder the same way as +/-?

For using shielded hookup wire, you connect the shield and ground together at the input RCA connectors. At the other end (presumably at the volume pot), you do not connect the shield to ground. Just leave it free, but connect your ground to the ground connections at the volume pot or at the amp module inputs if you not using a volume pot. This will help avoid ground loops with the shielding.

I have not had a problem with excessive RFI, but if the problem persists even with using shielded hookup, Jon Risch recommends inserting a 0.1uF ceramic cap between the shield and ground at the amplifier input end (volume pot or amp board input).

[Brad]

Got the 3110 wired up and playing tonight.
For what it cost to build, this thing has no right to sound this good.   

Plenty of power for the Pioneer '41 bookshelves.

The IEC plugged into the laptop-style power supply was 4x the cost of the whole amp.

I'll give it a couple of days to play in, then report back.
Cool stuff.

[rhing]

I've been in contact with Kevin of K&K Audio regarding the use of line level input transformers to balance the inputs, LINP, LINN, RINP, and RINN. This is what he had to recommend: either the Lundahl LL1592 or the Lundahl LL1690. The LL1592 has a somewhat warmer, but less detailed sound then the LL1690, which is very transparent. So after experimenting with the $10 Sure Electronics TPA3110 amp, I am seriously considering trying a pair out at the inputs for better noise rejection and improved sound quality. One interesting thing that Kevin recommended was to keep the input caps as DC blockers to avoid any DC core saturation of the input transformers. I am going to post on the Texas Instruments Web forum and ask their opinion about balancing the inputs with transformers. The idea would also be applicable to the TPA3116D2 amps as well.

[wushuliu]

I've been in contact with Kevin of K&K Audio regarding the use of line level input transformers to balance the inputs, LINP, LINN, RINP, and RINN. This is what he had to recommend: either the Lundahl LL1592 or the Lundahl LL1690. The LL1592 has a somewhat warmer, but less detailed sound then the LL1690, which is very transparent. So after experimenting with the $10 Sure Electronics TPA3110 amp, I am seriously considering trying a pair out at the inputs for better noise rejection and improved sound quality. One interesting thing that Kevin recommended was to keep the input caps as DC blockers to avoid any DC core saturation of the input transformers. I am going to post on the Texas Instruments Web forum and ask their opinion about balancing the inputs with transformers. The idea would also be applicable to the TPA3116D2 amps as well.

Oof, I'll definitely wait til you report back on that - them transformers ain't cheap.

I'll also be picking your brain soon about a certain belt-idler turntable coming my way...

[rhing]

Belt-idler turntable? Dude, you will love your vinyl collection all over again. They just have a special way of conveying the vibe of music from vinyl grooves that neither belt drive nor direct drive turntables can reproduce.

I know it sounds ludicrous that I would use input transformers that each cost 10x more than the Sure Electronics amp board, but I've been able to get great sound quality in my main system with the TPA3110D2. I just put two matched pairs of Genelex Gold Lion ECC88/6922 tubes in my Audio Research PH5 phono stage and I'm using my TDA7297 chip amp and TPA3110D2 Class D amp. The TPA3110D2 is an amazing performer and if putting two Lundahl transformers on the inputs will give me sound that closely mimics a good tube amp, I'm still ahead on overall costs. A good KT88 push-pull amp DIY project would still set me back $600 to $700. I already have one of those nice brushed Aluminum faceplate Modushop chassis that would be perfect for housing a TPA3110 or TPA3116 amps with input transformers. It wouldn't be cheap, but it would definitely be cheerful.

[lacro]

The higher PS cap values improve low end response for a more fuller sound in my experience. Others have reported the same. I've also found PS caps to have a more tonal impact than say input cap mods, etc. I prefer Nichicon Muse myself for clean and clear and microdynamics. Elna Silmics are very warm. It's easy to try out on the 3110 board since it has surface pads making it very simple to solder and desolder. And PS caps are so inexpensive. Worth trying out.

Wushuliu,
 I must thank you for introducing me to the possibilities of this little amp. I am on my 3rd board! I tried the Panasonic caps first, and the Elna Silmics next, and today I am trying the Nichicon Muse caps that you prefer. the latest board is being powered by my lawn mowers 12v battery.
 The sound difference using different caps is astounding! The stock board sounds good, but the cheap and cheerful cap swaps are like buying another much more expensive amp! I do like the warm sound of the Elna Silmics, but I do get what you describe as"clean and clear and microdynamics" with the Muse caps. Even my wife commented on the "clear sound" of the Muse caped board. I can see me liking both mods depending on the music, but I think I am liking the Muse caps more even though they have only been playing an hour.
 Maybe the battery power is part of it. I will have to give the Elna Silmics board a try with the battery power. 




 

[rhing]

Wow! Now I have to go out and get a battery power supply for my TPA3110D2 amp.

I just finished this build today, and the unit is playing now. It will take some time before everything settles in, but so far it sounds very promising.







It has the following components:

• 2X 1,000uF / 25V Elna Silmic II electrolytic caps
• 1X 2,200uF / 25V Panasonic FM electrolytic cap on thru-holes where the power supply is connected to the board
• 4X Bourns 43-Type Ferrite beads from Digikey
• 1X Panasonic EVJ 50kohm audio taper volume pot
• 2X custom-made shielded hook-up wires using twisted pairs of 0.5mm Mundorf Silver-Gold solid core wire in Teflon tubing, next wrapped in Teflon tape, inserted into 12AWG Teflon thin wall tubing, covered with Tinned Copper braided shielding and finished in Techflex cable sleeving.
• Vampire CM1F RCA connectors
• Vampire CM-HEX 5-way binding posts
• NKK SPST 6A power switch
• Switchcraft 722A DC power connector, 2.1mm x 5.5mm
• Context Engineering split Aluminum enclosure, black anodized, brushed surface finish
• Kilo Silver-finish machined Aluminum knob from Digikey

The shielded wiring is pretty stiff after building it up, but I have no noise issues.

My next project is this Yuan Jing TPA3116D2 amp. I just ordered it yesterday.

http://www.yuan-jing.com/tpa3116-class-d-2-0-stereo-amplifier-board-50w-50w

The fun never ends.

[Brad]

Lacro,

Are you sure the amp board is still under there somewhere?   

[wushuliu]

Wow! Now I have to go out and get a battery power supply for my TPA3110D2 amp.

I just finished this build today, and the unit is playing now. It will take some time before everything settles in, but so far it sounds very promising.

It has the following components:

• 2X 1,000uF / 25V Elna Silmic II electrolytic caps
• 1X 2,200uF / 25V Panasonic FM electrolytic cap on thru-holes where the power supply is connected to the board
• 4X Bourns 43-Type Ferrite beads from Digikey
• 1X Panasonic EVJ 50kohm audio taper volume pot
• 2X custom-made shielded hook-up wires using twisted pairs of 0.5mm Mundorf Silver-Gold solid core wire in Teflon tubing, next wrapped in Teflon tape, inserted into 12AWG Teflon thin wall tubing, covered with Tinned Copper braided shielding and finished in Techflex cable sleeving.
• Vampire CM1F RCA connectors
• Vampire CM-HEX 5-way binding posts
• NKK SPST 6A power switch
• Switchcraft 722A DC power connector, 2.1mm x 5.5mm
• Context Engineering split Aluminum enclosure, black anodized, brushed surface finish
• Kilo Silver-finish machined Aluminum knob from Digikey

The shielded wiring is pretty stiff after building it up, but I have no noise issues.

My next project is this Yuan Jing TPA3116D2 amp. I just ordered it yesterday.

http://www.yuan-jing.com/tpa3116-class-d-2-0-stereo-amplifier-board-50w-50w

The fun never ends.

Very nice...

Btw what was the shipping cost on the YJ board?

[lacro]

Wow! Now I have to go out and get a battery power supply for my TPA3110D2 amp.

I just finished this build today, and the unit is playing now. It will take some time before everything settles in, but so far it sounds very promising.







It has the following components:

• 2X 1,000uF / 25V Elna Silmic II electrolytic caps
• 1X 2,200uF / 25V Panasonic FM electrolytic cap on thru-holes where the power supply is connected to the board
• 4X Bourns 43-Type Ferrite beads from Digikey
• 1X Panasonic EVJ 50kohm audio taper volume pot
• 2X custom-made shielded hook-up wires using twisted pairs of 0.5mm Mundorf Silver-Gold solid core wire in Teflon tubing, next wrapped in Teflon tape, inserted into 12AWG Teflon thin wall tubing, covered with Tinned Copper braided shielding and finished in Techflex cable sleeving.
• Vampire CM1F RCA connectors
• Vampire CM-HEX 5-way binding posts
• NKK SPST 6A power switch
• Switchcraft 722A DC power connector, 2.1mm x 5.5mm
• Context Engineering split Aluminum enclosure, black anodized, brushed surface finish
• Kilo Silver-finish machined Aluminum knob from Digikey

The shielded wiring is pretty stiff after building it up, but I have no noise issues.

My next project is this Yuan Jing TPA3116D2 amp. I just ordered it yesterday.

http://www.yuan-jing.com/tpa3116-class-d-2-0-stereo-amplifier-board-50w-50w

The fun never ends.

Nice work again! I hope to do the same quality some day... May I add: "the cheap and cheerful fun never ends"

[lacro]

Lacro,

Are you sure the amp board is still under there somewhere?   

Please forgive my Rats Nest! I just wanted to hear my new creation before putting it in/on some type box... I am pleased to say the least, even without a box!

[Brad]

Lacro - just kidding.  The sound is the important thing.

Mine is in a box, but I need to buy some parts before I can put the lid on it.
Plus the amp board is just sitting on the bottom - not physically connected.

Ordered some caps from Mouser tonight to try that upgrade.
Panny and Nichicon in a couple of different values.

Still really enjoying the sound.  Piano especially has a nice tone and bite to it.

 

[Taterworks]

I just finished this build today, and the unit is playing now. It will take some time before everything settles in, but so far it sounds very promising.







It has the following components:

• 2X 1,000uF / 25V Elna Silmic II electrolytic caps
• 1X 2,200uF / 25V Panasonic FM electrolytic cap on thru-holes where the power supply is connected to the board
• 4X Bourns 43-Type Ferrite beads from Digikey
• 1X Panasonic EVJ 50kohm audio taper volume pot
• 2X custom-made shielded hook-up wires using twisted pairs of 0.5mm Mundorf Silver-Gold solid core wire in Teflon tubing, next wrapped in Teflon tape, inserted into 12AWG Teflon thin wall tubing, covered with Tinned Copper braided shielding and finished in Techflex cable sleeving.
• Vampire CM1F RCA connectors
• Vampire CM-HEX 5-way binding posts
• NKK SPST 6A power switch
• Switchcraft 722A DC power connector, 2.1mm x 5.5mm
• Context Engineering split Aluminum enclosure, black anodized, brushed surface finish
• Kilo Silver-finish machined Aluminum knob from Digikey

The shielded wiring is pretty stiff after building it up, but I have no noise issues.

That's a very impressive build. All the tweaks are present, and I'd say you've added a good $150 of value to that amp. The shielded input wiring in particular shows a lot of know-how. This will be a tough act to follow.

[rhing]

I only share these photos and experiences, because I used to wonder how people got into DIY audio. Hopefully, this will help others as they try to extract the best performance from these bargain-priced amps. The parts including the amp board cost about $100. I bought the Mundorf Silver-Gold wire in bulk a while ago to make my own interconnect cables, and I still have a few feet left. The Tinned Copper braided shielding car from a local surplus electronics store along with the Techflex sleeving and some of the Teflon tubing. The most expensive parts are the binding posts and RCA connectors. I usually buy stuff like this when sellers like Parts Connexion and Sonic Craft have their sales. I did score on a bunch of Vampire CM1F RCA connectors from some guy on eBay.

If anyone wants to know the recipe for the shielded hookup wire, just PM me. I might use the same recipe to make shielded interconnects between my phono stage and line stage.

Anyway, I highly doubt that I could find an amp for $100 to $150 new that sounds this good. After learning DIY audio through modding Sonic Impact T-amps and Magnavox console tube amps, I can hardly bring myself to go into audio dealerships knowing how much their goods are marked up.

[lacro]

I only share these photos and experiences, because I used to wonder how people got into DIY audio. Hopefully, this will help others as they try to extract the best performance from these bargain-priced amps. The parts including the amp board cost about $100. I bought the Mundorf Silver-Gold wire in bulk a while ago to make my own interconnect cables, and I still have a few feet left. The Tinned Copper braided shielding car from a local surplus electronics store along with the Techflex sleeving and some of the Teflon tubing. The most expensive parts are the binding posts and RCA connectors. I usually buy stuff like this when sellers like Parts Connexion and Sonic Craft have their sales. I did score on a bunch if Vampire CM1F RCA connectors from some guy on eBay.

I highly doubt that I could find an amp for $100 new that sounds this good. After learning DIY audio through modding Sonic Impact T-amps and Magnavox console tube amps, I can hardly bring myself to go into audio dealerships knowing how much their goods are marked up.

 Is that a different (larger) box than you used previously? I know you mentioned you couldn't fit the Panasonic 2200uf cap in a previous build because it was too tall.

[rhing]

Is that a different (larger) box than you used previously? I know you mentioned you couldn't fit the Panasonic 2200uf cap in a previous build because it was too tall.

Actually, it is the same Context Engineering P/N 3008 split body enclosure I used in my previous TPA3110 build. I had to use my Dremel tool to grind out some of the extruded ribs in the upper corner of the top half of the box to accommodate the height of the 2,200uF Panasonic FM. I lined the surrounding areas with plenty of masking tape to avoid scratching anything. A Dremel tool works wonders until you slip up and damage something else nearby. After I ground away a nice rounded clearance, I touched it up with a black Sharpie marker. My Dremel tool is actually a Chinese clone I bought from Harbor Freight for $20. For this DIY hobby, Harbor Freight is a great resource for very affordable power tools like a desktop drill press or table saw and hand tools like center punches.

I should also mention that Morgan Jones' "Building Valve Amplifiers" is an excellent and practical book for DIY construction techniques. Even though the book is about building tube audio amplifiers, many of the construction techniques and tools covered in the book can be used for all things audio electronics. His other book "Valve Amplifiers" has plenty of math for EE wannabes (like me), but it also has some great information about selecting capacitors and resistors, and other components.

BTW, thanks for sharing photos of your projects, even in raw form. I wish more people would share photos of their projects no matter what they look like. It helps others learn and inspires people to jump into DIY audio and try new things.