[Taterworks]

Hello lacro,

What is the value of your two Silmic II caps?

[Letitroll98]

I think they're about $6.99 each.


Sorry, couldn't resist, maybe because they're capacitors and have very little resistance.


Please, stop me. 

[mboxler]

I finished my Sure TPA3110 amp last week, and was using a 12V SLA battery for the PS.  I found and ordered this 12V laptop PS from Ebay...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/290727815800?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Measured 12.5 volts, so I plugged it in.  A big improvement driving my little Pioneers, and my wife's request to "get that big-ass battery out of the living room" has been fullfilled.

Mike

[lacro]

Hello lacro,

What is the value of your two Silmic II caps?

Taterworks:

1,000uF / 25V.

[Folsom]

Well if they are not going to provide good parts on-board, at least now there's a board so you can swap stuff easily.

[Letitroll98]

Well if they are not going to provide good parts on-board, at least now there's a board so you can swap stuff easily.

FYI: Due to the Chinese New Year Holiday, our factory will be closed from 25 JAN - 8 FEB 2014.
You can place the order during this period. However, all our orders will be started to ship out form 12 FEB.

[Folsom]

Ya but it takes 2-3 weeks anyway.

[Letitroll98]

Pretty kewl site regardless.

[raysracing]

I love my  (red board) TPA3116 board, but want to eliminate the volume control. Should I just buy another one (I believe the one with the green board has no volume pot).  Is there a way to remove it? if I remove it then what mods do I then need to do to hook it to a pre-amp?  Sorry, very low knowledge on power amp design.

Ray

[mboxler]

I love my  (red board) TPA3116 board, but want to eliminate the volume control. Should I just buy another one (I believe the one with the green board has no volume pot).  Is there a way to remove it? if I remove it then what mods do I then need to do to hook it to a pre-amp?  Sorry, very low knowledge on power amp design.

Ray

Hi Ray

Removing the pot is fairly easy, if you have either a solder vacuum or solder wick.  I use the vacuum (radioshack), heat each for the six joints 'til the solder melts, and suck it off the board.  After a few passes, the pot will get loose and pull out.

You can then wire your RCA's to the vacant pot holes.  Salis Audio posted a picture showing a similar board

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=122152.0

The middle holes are from the + pin of the RCA, the left holes from the - pin.

Solder wires from the two RCA jacks to the four holes marked in the picture.  Make sure to twist the + and - wires from each RCA to the board.  Connect your preamp to the RCA's, and you are ready for tunes  .

Hope that helps.

Mike

[Folsom]

If you like the current input location, but have removed the pot, yoou can also jumper with wire the far right front with middle front, and far right back with middle back. That would leave ground disconnected at the old pots location but doesn't matter as ground is connected where you have inputs now.

[Mr. Oczka]

Question about the tpa3116.  Received mine in the mail and was going to put in a box.  I want to connect it to some RCA jacks, so I removed the plastic connector exposing three prongs on the front of the board.  Right input, Ground and Left input.   When hooking them up, do I use the same ground for both the right and left inputs?  I would have thought there would be 2 separate grounds, one for the right input and one for the left input.  I prefer not to cook the board before I get to listen to it.  Thank you for any advise.

Tom

[raysracing]

Hi Ray

Removing the pot is fairly easy, if you have either a solder vacuum or solder wick.  I use the vacuum (radioshack), heat each for the six joints 'til the solder melts, and suck it off the board.  After a few passes, the pot will get loose and pull out.

You can then wire your RCA's to the vacant pot holes.  Salis Audio posted a picture showing a similar board

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=122152.0

The middle holes are from the + pin of the RCA, the left holes from the - pin.

Solder wires from the two RCA jacks to the four holes marked in the picture.  Make sure to twist the + and - wires from each RCA to the board.  Connect your preamp to the RCA's, and you are ready for tunes  .

Hope that helps.

Mike

  Very helpful-thanks.  I hope it improves the sound even if a little bit.

[raysracing]

If you like the current input location, but have removed the pot, yoou can also jumper with wire the far right front with middle front, and far right back with middle back. That would leave ground disconnected at the old pots location but doesn't matter as ground is connected where you have inputs now.

  I am using the crappy RCA dongle that you buy separately and it is already broken.  The RCA plugs I use are so tight that I removed them once and the plugs separated so I will likely replace them with something sturdier.

[mboxler]

When hooking them up, do I use the same ground for both the right and left inputs?

Tom

Hey Tom

Yes, you can use the same ground for both.  If the board had two grounds, they would be connected anyway. 

Mike

[Mr. Oczka]

Mike,

Thank you!  I'll wire it up tonite and give the amp a try.

Thanks,

Tom

[murphy11]

Would one of these amps work with a strata mini speaker at lower volumes?  http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_13_4/onix-strata-mini-speakers-12-2006-part-1.html   I'm using a ONIX A60 amp and never push the volume past 9AM.  http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=81177.0

[rhing]

I would be surprised if any if these amps could drive the Mini Stratas with any reasonable headroom. Those crossovers are current-eaters.

[Folsom]

Some multiway speakers also have load impedences that class D will often puke out as some kinda joke. The AB amps will do better.

[rhing]

Good point. The Mini Stratas have a crazy impedance curve, and probably would sound shrill with a TPA3110/TPA3116 Class D amp.