Strata mini improvement - No res\GR Tweeters

emac · « **Reply #20 on:** 28 Nov 2013, 02:47 pm »

Sounds like a reasonable plan. I've found that the Mini's are pretty sensitive to placement. Some speakers you can do some basic tinkering with the placement, and they sound great. With the Mini's, it takes some work, but the results are well worth it.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #21 on:** 28 Nov 2013, 03:02 pm »

Taking some measurements to see where they are is a good idea.

And be sure to measure left and right channels independently and not both at the same time.

murphy11 · « **Reply #22 on:** 12 Dec 2013, 10:21 pm »

Hey Danny,

I know the NoRez makes an audible difference but will it make a difference in REW measurements and if so where would it show up? Below is a waterfall I plotted today and I am a rookie with REW so not sure if lining Onix mini strata woofer would show difference in waterfall plot.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #23 on:** 12 Dec 2013, 10:31 pm »

Quote from: murphy11 on 12 Dec 2013, 10:21 pm

Hey Danny,

I know the NoRez makes an audible difference but will it make a difference in REW measurements and if so where would it show up? Below is a waterfall I plotted today and I am a rookie with REW so not sure if lining Onix mini strata woofer would show difference in waterfall plot.

Where it would show up is if you took an accelerometer reading on a panel before and after. It will keep you panels from resonating so you hear the music and not box noise.

It won't change your speakers frequency response.

And also, you have to do a gated time window to take that waterfall plot and get any real data. But it will not give you accurate data in the low ranges and typically just cuts off the lower end.

murphy11 · « **Reply #24 on:** 23 Dec 2013, 03:59 pm »

So I was measuring and tweaking placement trying to get smoothest response before I consider adding noRez. I am kinda horrified when I realized my graphs were only showing low end and not top end. Both left and right independently show huge rolloff around 4K regardless of speaker or mike placement.

Any ideas on how to troubleshoot what might be the root cause?

Danny Richie · « **Reply #25 on:** 23 Dec 2013, 05:36 pm »

The tweeters on those things cross at 4.2kHz. You may have a couple of dead tweeters man.

SoCalWJS · « **Reply #26 on:** 23 Dec 2013, 06:35 pm »

Quote from: Danny Richie on 23 Dec 2013, 05:36 pm

The tweeters on those things cross at 4.2kHz. You may have a couple of dead tweeters man.

That was my first thought too, but didn't want to state the obvious.

Maybe wires came loose from the back of the tweeters or the crossover board? (fingers crossed)

murphy11 · « **Reply #27 on:** 23 Dec 2013, 10:16 pm »

Quote from: Danny Richie on 23 Dec 2013, 05:36 pm

The tweeters on those things cross at 4.2kHz. You may have a couple of dead tweeters man.

I am really bummed.

I took the top back part of the speaker off and the wires are still soldered to the tweeter (I assume the round one right?)

I took out the amp on one of the speakers and can see both or what I assume are crossovers but can't see a loose wire anywhere. Any additional things I can check to see if it's wiring or something else?

Danny Richie · « **Reply #28 on:** 24 Dec 2013, 12:45 am »

You can put an ohm meter on the tweeter to see if it is still good.

murphy11 · « **Reply #29 on:** 26 Dec 2013, 08:47 pm »

Quote from: Danny Richie on 24 Dec 2013, 12:45 am

You can put an ohm meter on the tweeter to see if it is still good.

An Ohm meter connected to the wires connected to the circular tweeter reads 5.7 (dances around a bit across numbers but settles on 5.7 or 5.8 ) The planar magnetic reads 2.7 or 2.8. Hmm... not sure what that means

I was really hoping something stupid like a bad mike\cal file or amp could be the culprit but connected an Energy bookshelf speaker to current setup and it reads properly to slight dip just before 20K and huge roll off at 80 as expected.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #30 on:** 26 Dec 2013, 09:47 pm »

Quote

An Ohm meter connected to the wires connected to the circular tweeter reads 5.7 (dances around a bit across numbers but settles on 5.7 or 5.8 ) The planar magnetic reads 2.7 or 2.8. Hmm... not sure what that means

There are shunt resistors in the circuit too, so to get a real reading on them you will have to un-solder one leg (+ or -) and then take a reading.

murphy11 · « **Reply #31 on:** 26 Dec 2013, 11:21 pm »

Would one of your replacement tweeters work? It looks like the tweeter is approx 4" wide and has 3 screw holes. If it would work, would I just usolder the old tweeter, unscrew, screw in new one and resolder?

Danny Richie · « **Reply #32 on:** 27 Dec 2013, 04:03 am »

Can you get me an exact measurement of the face plate of that tweeter?

murphy11 · « **Reply #33 on:** 27 Dec 2013, 02:13 pm »

Quote from: Danny Richie on 27 Dec 2013, 04:03 am

Can you get me an exact measurement of the face plate of that tweeter?
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To my eyes, looks like 3-3/4" looking down onto the face of the tweeter.

murphy11 · « **Reply #34 on:** 30 Dec 2013, 02:09 pm »

When you get a chance Danny please let me know - PM is OK if needed. Never soldered before but would be willing to buy one tweeter for now to see if it fixes the problem and another tweeter later if resolved. Also will need a recommendation for a solder iron and solder but could get that recommendation elsewhere if needed.

AKLegal · « **Reply #35 on:** 30 Dec 2013, 02:47 pm »

Quote from: murphy11 on 30 Dec 2013, 02:09 pm

Also will need a recommendation for a solder iron and solder but could get that recommendation elsewhere if needed.

I have the older version of this one. http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-FX-888D/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1388414507&sr=1-3

Trust me, even if you are inexperienced you don't want to go cheap with a soldering iron, especially when working with tweeters. Otherwise find someone with a high quality soldering iron who can do it for you.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #36 on:** 30 Dec 2013, 04:07 pm »

Electrically my GR-T3 is not a bad candidate for a replacement.

http://gr-research.com/gr-t3tweeter.aspx

And since the crossover point is so high, we aren't looking at a real noticeable response change.

Just the face plate is different. I have a lot of extra face plates. So one could make a jig for a router to be used to reduce the diameter of the plastic face plate. Then drill a couple of new mounting holes in it.

It mounts from the back anyway so it would hide any scratches on the edges of the face plate.

Hmmm......

murphy11 · « **Reply #37 on:** 30 Dec 2013, 05:18 pm »

Danny,

I realize this is not a big sale so I really appreciate your time and feedback. Considering my minis rolloff a huge amount at 4K, if my current tweeters are blown and I replace with your tweeters and it fixes the problem - that should make a big sonic improvement? I probably have been missing a lot and don't know what I'm missing so just wonerding if investing another $100 for a solder gun and $40 for a tweeter shipped would be a good use of money. Maybe if I buy a solder gun I could sell it later or buy a used one? Don;t see myself using it again after this potential project.

Also, I don't care much or at all about how it looks. I have no plans to sell the minis and they have a few nicks in them and they are in a basement man cave so no worries.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #38 on:** 30 Dec 2013, 05:42 pm »

You can always just buy an inexpensive soldering gun.

Here is a cheap one: http://www.sears.com/craftsman-medium-duty-soldering-gun-100-140-watt/p-00954045000P?prdNo=3&blockNo=3&blockType=G3

This one is actually my favorite and I use one all the time: http://www.sears.com/craftsman-professional-dual-heat-soldering-gun/p-00927320000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2

murphy11 · « **Reply #39 on:** 30 Dec 2013, 11:27 pm »

I just placed an order for the tweeters - Thanks! Now need to get an iron and solder