[Lost81]

Hi guys / gals,

As I need to replace the 5/16" stock binding posts on my floor standing speakers in order to use my speaker cables (1/4"), does anyone have any tips on desoldering and resoldering speaker leads into the speaker binding posts?

Will I need clip-on heatsinks to protect the drivers / passive crossover components from the heat?

I won't want to wreck anything.

FWIW, the soldering equipment I have are:
Hakko 936 25W Temperature-controlled Soldering station,
Hakko 40W Soldering iron
Hakko 60W Soldering iron
Cardas solder
Manual solder sucker

Thanks for your expertise!


-Lost81

[ASi_TEK]

Hi,

You can try the heatsinks, but I doubt youll need them, I have replaced or deleted binding posts so many times and not had one issue with heat or any driver issues. Its probably best to just cut the wire and then restrip and retin it for the new post if theres enough wire in the chassis

Seeing what you have I would use the 60w iron for this. It takes some good heat to get the solder to melt on binding posts. Another trick is to keep moving the soldering iron around and keep putting solder on the mess, if you only keep it on one spot it will not necessary heat everything up.  I would use a 100w+ dedicated gun for binding posts, these little 40-60w irons are usually not the best to use and cause a headache.

When you put the new binding posts on, really get them ratched down tight and use some of that loktite stuff on the threads for further protection.

[Lost81]

Wow!

Thanks for the tips, Doug!


Cheers,
-Lost81

[StevenACNJ]

I just went through this installing 10 pair of Cardas binding posts on my speakers. I had about a year ago installed 5 pair of the Cardas posts in my mono block amps and was not looking forward to this job.

The Cardas posts are tough to solder because they are constructed very thick copper.

Reading over at DIY Audio forums, I saw that using a Radio Shack butain soldering iron / torch makes the job much easier.

http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=64-2188

Used as a torch, the unit produces a very hot - pin point flame. It is compact & refillable. Best yet, it only costs $20.

Also get yourself some Wonder Solder - simply the best out there.

[Lost81]

How do you like the Cardas binding posts?

The posts I am installing are the WBT fully insulated mid-line.
Well, by the time my machinist and I are through with them, they won't be fully insulated

He found out that the transparent plastic WBT uses on their binding posts aren't polysterene or even acrylic, but Lexan™ polycarbonate (yep, the same stuff used to make bullet-resistant glass ). We had to use a lathe to machine them off.

At one point, I overheard him muttering, "Those crazy Germans..."


 
-Lost81

[randytsuch]

One thing I have found for soldering things with a big thermal mass (like a big binding post) is to get a big a tip as you can for your soldering iron.  Reall does help, if you can get a big, fat tip.

Randy

[StevenACNJ]

How do you like the Cardas binding posts?

I use the Cardas CCBP unplated copper binding posts. They are a very good value for the money.

I am sure that the WBT posts are good too.

[ASi_TEK]

Hi Lost81,

I have used the Cardas CCGR-S Premium binding posts and they worked great for me in units I replaced them with.

Also, the WBT Midline Posts that come on the PS Audio HCA-2 are decent.

[elektratig]

There is no need to desolder the internal wire from the speaker leads.  Instead:

1.  Cut the internal wires close to the speaker binding posts and strip and tin the ends (assuming they're stranded).

2.  Solder short runs of new internal wire onto the new binding posts and strip and tin the ends.

3.  Attach the wires running from the drivers to the wires running from the binding posts using Radio Shack European Style terminal strips: http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F011%5F003%5F009%5F000&product%5Fid=274%2D677

I use this  technique all the time because it allows you to replace drivers without soldering or desoldering anything: http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=130

I too am a big fan of the Cardas unplated copper binding posts.

[StevenACNJ]

I also tried Jon Casler's tip with good results.

Unscrew the binding post outer lug-nut and apply Walker SST to the binding post threads, then reassemble.

[mgalusha]

I have an ancient Weller gun for projects like this. The current version is the 8200 and runs about $35.00 USD. I don't use it on a daily basis but when you really need some heat it rocks.