N3TL Build and Questions - Update - Finished Finally!!!

mlundy57 · « **on:** 30 Oct 2013, 01:25 am »

How do you cut out the port opening on the N3"s? A jigsaw would be simple but not a very good cut. A router would make a better cut but I'm not sure how to come up with a jig/guide for a rectangular opening. Freehanding with a router didn't work very well on a practice piece.

Mike

Peter J · « **Reply #1 on:** 30 Oct 2013, 01:44 am »

Mike, I like template guides. Jigs I use are often made from 1/4" scraps. The corner radius also looks better to my eye than a square cutout. You could also use a top bearing cutter with a template. I think you'd end up with 1/2" bearing and consequently 1/2" bit. With that diameter I'd probably rough it out with jigsaw and finish with router.

If you look at some of my build threads, you'll get a better idea of what I'm talking about.

S Clark · « **Reply #2 on:** 30 Oct 2013, 02:25 am »

You can make your own templates, but if you think you will ever do another project that will require cutting circles, buy a Jasper Jig. They are pretty cheap and work really well. I have used mine on probably 30-40 speaker projects with success.

http://www.amazon.com/Jasper-200J-Circle-Cutting-Plunge/dp/B00009K77A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1383099766&sr=8-1&keywords=jasper+circle+jigs

Captainhemo · « **Reply #3 on:** 30 Oct 2013, 06:09 am »

Mike, just glue the rear baffle on prior to cutting the TL opening. The opening is the same dimensions that are between the floor (top bottom plate) , the botom side of the lowest brace, and the 2 side walls. You can use a flush trim bit all the way around , the nternal structure of the cabinet is your guide.
Just be sure the bearing is fastened tightly , bet you can't guess how I know that

-jay

mlundy57 · « **Reply #4 on:** 30 Oct 2013, 08:51 pm »

Thanks everybody.

Jay,

Nope, no idea how you would have learned that

I haven't laid out the internal braces yet so I did not catch the fact that the port opening matched the spacing. A flush trim bit after glue up will be the easiest way.

Thanks

Mike

Danny Richie · « **Reply #5 on:** 30 Oct 2013, 10:59 pm »

Quote

A flush trim bit after glue up will be the easiest way.

Yep, that's the thing to do.

mlundy57 · « **Reply #6 on:** 30 Oct 2013, 11:12 pm »

I just ordered an N3 kit from Danny with all the trimmings (Sonicaps, mills resistors, platinum by-pass caps in the tweeter circuits, Gen II by-pass caps in the woofer circuits, and NoRez). I have also ordered the veneer, Rosewood Santos.

I have the parts cut and woofers routed out. I'm holding up on cutting the tweeter openings until I get the veneer in so I can get a measurement on the thickness. That way I can determine the depth for the recess.

That's why I renamed the thread to a build thread.

Now for the next question. Does anybody have any ideas about a different design for the base? Here's a design I'm thinking of:

The actual dimensions of the base in the plans is still here. I have just added rounded extensions at the corners with a curve connecting them together. In the center of each side the curve mates with the original base. The floor spikes would be attached in the center of each "foot". That would move the floor spikes farther out and wider apart than with the plan base.

Mike

mlundy57 · « **Reply #7 on:** 5 Nov 2013, 02:23 am »

The N3 kit arrived today. The cabinet build is underway. There sure is a lot of joints to keep track of in this thing!

Mike

mlundy57 · « **Reply #8 on:** 8 Nov 2013, 11:02 pm »

The build is underway so it is time to post some pictures. Like all builds this one started by cutting out the parts. I also cut the parts for an N3S center channel while I was at it.

Instead of trying to cut out a bunch of half circles for the Brace B's I decided to cut them out of one long strip. That way I could cut complete circles for most of the openings and leave additional material for the two end openings. That way I had a solid piece of material for the center pin.

I also cut long strips of the proper width for each of the other braces, rounded over a long edge then cut them to length on the miter saw. This way I didn't have to try and round over the edges on small pieces. I forgot to take pictures of this part though.

When I got ready to start cutting out the openings I set up the Router Buddy circle jig

Then I countersunk screw holes in the waste area of the openings to be cut out

This let me secure the pieces to the backer board and, along with clamps on the outside of the piece insured the router would not run out when I cut through a hole.

Next I cut out the openings for the woofers and for the Brace B's. No pictures for the woofer openings, just the brace B's

Then I rounded over the backs of the woofers and both sides of the braces. Again, no pics of the woofers

Then I used a 12" sliding miter saw to cut out the individual brace B's

Mike

mlundy57 · « **Reply #9 on:** 8 Nov 2013, 11:23 pm »

After getting the small pieces cut out I marked up the four long panels of each speaker. I marked off one panel then lined all four up, clamped them down and used a long T-square to transfer the positioning marks for the braces to the other panels.

Once the positions were marked I cut slots for the biscuits

Once I had all the slots cut I dry fit the pieces together

When I was sure everything fit the way I wanted it to I glued the braces to one of the side panels. I had to do this in three steps so I had room to clamp the right angle jigs to each piece.

I don't have a picture of gluing the second side on, the camera battery died. After the sides were glued together I attached the back. Somewhere I remember hearing something about never having too many clamps

Then I attached the top

Next I dyed the inside of the port opening black using an alcohol based leather dye

I have not attached the bottom yet. I'm thinking I want to be able to bolt the base to the tower. I would think being able to remove the base would make the speaker easier to pack if I end up moving in the future.

What are some of your thoughts on this, glue the base to the tower and have it fixed or bolt it on so it is removable?

Mike

Captainhemo · « **Reply #10 on:** 9 Nov 2013, 02:24 am »

Looking good Mike , awesome job

Doing the Tl braces in pairs was a good idea to make rounding over the TL edges easier. When I did mine, I didn't think of that and had to deal with the short (6.5") piecs, I idd do the brace b's in the same manner you did.
Using the ink was smart

Keep the pics coming !!

-jay

mlundy57 · « **Reply #11 on:** 9 Nov 2013, 02:32 am »

Thanks Jay

How'd you attach your bases?

I still need to put the brace A in this one then build up the other cabinet. I hope to be done before Thanksgiving so I can show them off when the family is over.

Duke Ellignton's "Concert in the Virgin Islands" is sure sounding good through the N1X's right now

Mike

Captainhemo · « **Reply #12 on:** 9 Nov 2013, 04:03 am »

The bases on ine are permanenet, they are glued and screwed. Used 5 x 2.5" screws countersunk to flush on each 1.5" thick base.
The idea you brought up of having them removable is good though, you could use threded lag bolts and have the nuts couter sunk into the bases. Would definitely make packing/moving themn long distance much easier. When we moved mine over to my folks we just laid them down with some pillows in the back of the car and they were fine (just a couple blocks)

What are you constructing the bases from ?

Glad you are enjoying the N1X's, Have you noticed them getting smoother as you're putting the hours on ?
As I mentioned before, you're going to really enjoy the TL's . The dual M130's really work well in the TL and combined with the Neo 3's / platinum caps, I think you'll lbe surprised. You'll have fun showing them off at Thanksgiving.

-jay

mlundy57 · « **Reply #13 on:** 9 Nov 2013, 04:30 am »

I'm planning on making the bases out of 1.50 inch (2 ea 3/4" pieces laminated together) Baltic Birch. I'm also thinking of altering the design a little (see reply #6 above). I plan on some type of edge work such as a 3/4" roundover, champhor, ogee, or something just so the edges are not plain. I will stain the bases black then apply a French polish finish. That way I'll get depth and luster but also have some faint grain pattern if you look closely.

My plan for attaching the bases is to use 1/4" - 20 knife cut threaded inserts in the bottom of the tower and 1/4" - 20 black anodized (or stainless if I can't find black) counter sunk bolts to attach the base. Probably six bolts for each speaker.

These are the inserts

The N1X's are getting smoother the longer they play. Can't wait for the N3's. I'm expecting great things from them though I realize they are going to take a lot longer to break in.

Mike

Captainhemo · « **Reply #14 on:** 9 Nov 2013, 04:58 am »

Yes, I saw your plans for the bases above and liked them. I actually thought about doig a similar thing with my OB7's but I was only thinking of haveing the "feet" at the front. I ended up passing on the idea..... kind of wish I had followed through with it now .
I think the edge work could look very sharp too. Doesn't take a ton to just help set something off and add some character. Looking forward to seeing what you come up with

Those inserts should work well, a much better plan than the lag bolts w/countersunk nuts

-jay

mlundy57 · « **Reply #15 on:** 10 Nov 2013, 02:56 am »

Taking a break from speaker building tonight. Am attending the Tulsa Symphony Orchestra performance of Fantasia. Haven't been to a live symphony in years. This is great. Intermission is about over back to the show. You all enjoy.

Mike

NeilT · « **Reply #16 on:** 12 Nov 2013, 06:01 pm »

Great build pics and commentary.
Thanks and keep em coming.

Neil

Captainhemo · « **Reply #17 on:** 22 Nov 2013, 06:15 am »

How are they coming Mike ? Anxious to see some more pics

mlundy57 · « **Reply #18 on:** 22 Nov 2013, 11:24 pm »

Not going to make a Thanksgiving finish. I have some more pics to get posted. My computer died last Wednesday and I have been busy getting a new one up and running, reinstalling/upgrading all my programs and recovering all my data. The computer has taken precedence since I need it for work.

Mike

Captainhemo · « **Reply #19 on:** 23 Nov 2013, 05:44 am »

No worries man, you can have them make the big debut in front of friends and family at Xmas

Plus, that'll give you some time to get some hours on them too

Don't envy you regarding the computer issues, never a fun deal.

-jay