[R_burke]

Danny,

Are you planning on adding these to your website?

[chip]

I used a 3/8" round over on the pair that I built out. Looks good.

Pictures????

[baniels]

Here you go. http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=120804.msg1294499#msg1294499

Pictures????

[mlundy57]

Great question, Mike.

For the front, 3/8" is probably the largest common size you want to use before the roundover encroaches on the driver recess. 1/2" slightly cuts into the recess. On paper, the edge of the recess would be met perfectly with a corner radius of .43075.

For the rear you have more room to play with. The image below will show the implications of a few options. Does this help?

I used a 3/8" round over on the pair that I built out. Looks good.

Thanks. I think 3/8" is too tight a radius to wrap veneer around. I have a few scraps leftover so I will experiment to see if it will work.

Mike

[chip]

So to complete a desktop setup with this one needs -

The driver kit from danny:
Pair of LGK drivers. $58.
Passive compensation filters $52.
Set of tube connectors $50.
Ports, wire, screws, solder and heat shrink $8.
1/2 Sheet of No Rez $20 (I don't normally sell half sheets).

So I will offer a complete kit for $189 that includes everything.

Now a inline passive high pass filter can vary. The correct Sonicap platinum value depends on the input impedance of your amp. And if you want a by-pass on the filter or not... I can make up the ones I build for Serenity Acoustics for $100 a piece.

The DIY box kit from Ben -

An amp to drive it

What else am I missing? Is a crossover needed?

[Danny Richie]

Danny,

Can you tell me how much a speaker ways with the driver in it?

Thanks,

Greg

These Black ones that I just built out weigh 7 pounds a piece.

[Danny Richie]

Danny,

Are you planning on adding these to your website?

Maybe. I am real covered up with design work right now, and it is hard to set aside time to work on the web site.  And I am a loudspeaker designer and not a web site builder. So I am not real proficient at web page work.

[jeffh]

Thanks. I think 3/8" is too tight a radius to wrap veneer around. I have a few scraps leftover so I will experiment to see if it will work.

Mike

It can be done, but you will probably need to use something like this:

http://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Super-Soft-2-Veneer-Softener-Conditioner.html

I used Super-Soft 2 to build some small desktop speakers and I was able to wrap raw walnut veneer around a 3/8" round over.  Here are a few pictures:


Check out my Gallery for more pictures

[chip]

It can be done, but you will probably need to use something like this:

http://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Super-Soft-2-Veneer-Softener-Conditioner.html

I used Super-Soft 2 to build some small desktop speakers and I was able to wrap raw walnut veneer around a 3/8" round over.  Here are a few pictures:


Check out my Gallery for more pictures

Which speakers are those?

[Danny Richie]

So to complete a desktop setup with this one needs -

The driver kit from danny:
Pair of LGK drivers. $58.
Passive compensation filters $52.
Set of tube connectors $50.
Ports, wire, screws, solder and heat shrink $8.
1/2 Sheet of No Rez $20 (I don't normally sell half sheets).

So I will offer a complete kit for $189 that includes everything.

Now a inline passive high pass filter can vary. The correct Sonicap platinum value depends on the input impedance of your amp. And if you want a by-pass on the filter or not... I can make up the ones I build for Serenity Acoustics for $100 a piece.

The DIY box kit from Ben -

An amp to drive it

What else am I missing? Is a crossover needed?

You don't have to put an inline filter inline with them unless you are really playing them hard.  If you are only using a 10 or 12 watt amp on your desk with them then just run them full range.

If you are putting them in a small home theater system or something then you can set your processor to the typical "small" speaker setting. That will work fine.

You can also use a Fmod filter from PE in a budget or mid-fi application. These work great, but will obviously color the signal compared to a high quality inline cap.

Fmods: http://www.parts-express.com/Search.aspx?keyword=Fmod&sitesearch=true

[Danny Richie]

A quick reminder to you guys that are getting in flat packs.

Be sure and line the cabinets with No Rez before you assemble them.





You won't be able to get it in there after assembly.

I was going to offer the 1/2 sheet of No Rez with the kit and ship them together. But if you guys want to get started getting them together then give me a call and I'll send you guys the half of a sheet of No Rez. I will then deduct that from the cost of the kit when you order the kit.

[baniels]

Couldn't the no-rez be carefully slid in before adding the baffle?

[Danny Richie]

Couldn't the no-rez be carefully slid in before adding the baffle?

Yes, it can be added just before the front baffle. Just don't stick that baffle on and glue it down before the no Rez.

[mlundy57]

How far back did you cut the foam for the driver? It looks like 1 1/2" - 2".

Mike

[Danny Richie]

How far back did you cut the foam for the driver? It looks like 1 1/2" - 2".

Mike

I think I better pull a driver out and measure that because I can't find my notes.

[randytsuch]

Anybody (Mike?) have veneering advice?

Never veneered before, but have spent the last few months on a woodworking project, so I think I'm ready to give it a shot.

I have been looking into veneering, now and in the past, and considered iron on, press on with clamps, vacuum press with either raw, paper backed or 2 ply veneer in various combinations.

I am currently leaning towards raw veneer, and building a vacuum press to install it, but I've only changed my mind a few times on this in the last couple of days.   

Randy

[mlundy57]

It can be done, but you will probably need to use something like this:

http://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Super-Soft-2-Veneer-Softener-Conditioner.html

I used Super-Soft 2 to build some small desktop speakers and I was able to wrap raw walnut veneer around a 3/8" round over.  Here are a few pictures:


Check out my Gallery for more pictures

Those came out really nice Jeff. How did you apply the veneer softener light mist, saturated or in-between? Did you let it completely dry before application or was it still a little damp?

I have used paperbacked veneer with two application methods PSA backed "peel & Stick" and iron on using Heat-Lock glue. Haven't tried raw wood. I take it you used contact cement on it?

Mike

[jeffh]

Those came out really nice Jeff. How did you apply the veneer softener light mist, saturated or in-between? Did you let it completely dry before application or was it still a little damp?

I have used paperbacked veneer with two application methods PSA backed "peel & Stick" and iron on using Heat-Lock glue. Haven't tried raw wood. I take it you used contact cement on it?

Mike

Been a while since I did those, but if I remember correctly, you treat the veneer several times letting it dry each time.  The chemicals make the veneer really relax so it will bend without cracking.    I used the iron on method.  Started in the front, worked around to the sides and then the back. It has been over two years and they are still holding up very well.

[Vedder323]

And I am a loudspeaker designer and not a web site builder.

I could help with that if you ever wanted.

[mlundy57]

Been a while since I did those, but if I remember correctly, you treat the veneer several times letting it dry each time.  The chemicals make the veneer really relax so it will bend without cracking.    I used the iron on method.  Started in the front, worked around to the sides and then the back. It has been over two years and they are still holding up very well.

How did you keep the seams from shrinking and pulling apart from the heat. I had a problem with this even with 22.2mil laminated backed veneer.

Mike