BUGLE2

Folsom · « **Reply #20 on:** 15 Nov 2013, 09:52 pm »

Get the can version with some heatsinks, all three, you won't be sorry.

http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=7lkVKPoqpbb%2FUQ6Cn%2FcA5g%3D%3D

(don't cut the legs too short, they might have to tilt slightly for heatsinks, there are smaller heatsinks BUT they aren't in stock)

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Aavid-Thermalloy/323005B00000G/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMttgyDkZ5Wiug5Aw9MG1ojffhIht%2fGvkUE%3d

izerbi · « **Reply #21 on:** 17 Nov 2013, 11:47 am »

Right! Just a couple of things; Why not the NA version which is easier to solder on the pcb? And, are there any "side effects" of using these opamps, for example i notice the voltage between 2.5V to 17V while the power supply on the bugle is 24V i believe.
Cheers

poty · « **Reply #22 on:** 17 Nov 2013, 03:19 pm »

Quote from: izerbi on 17 Nov 2013, 11:47 am

...i notice the voltage between 2.5V to 17V while the power supply on the bugle is 24V i believe.

The suggested opamp can work up to +17V - 0 - -17V power voltage. The BUGLE2 has 24V input voltage, but then the voltage is divided to +12 - 0 - -12V, so at least the voltage is in the margin.

Clive · « **Reply #23 on:** 29 Nov 2013, 04:10 pm »

Jim,

Are you going to be doing a version if the Bugle2 with adjustable 78 settings or is this something I should be able to work out from original Bugle and BuglePro manuals? It looks like the mods are the same as they were for the original Bugle.

Thanks,

Clive

hagtech · « **Reply #24 on:** 1 Dec 2013, 11:22 pm »

I probably will not do an adjustable version of the BUGLE2. The modification in the BUGLE PRO manual should work just fine. You'll need a bigger box.

Or you can always buy a TRUMPET REFERENCE instead.

jh

Clive · « **Reply #25 on:** 2 Dec 2013, 10:55 am »

Quote from: hagtech on 1 Dec 2013, 11:22 pm

I probably will not do an adjustable version of the BUGLE2. The modification in the BUGLE PRO manual should work just fine. You'll need a bigger box.

Or you can always buy a TRUMPET REFERENCE instead.

jh

Thanks Jim, the component values look incredibly close between Bugle and Bugle2 at the two crucial points on the circuit so that's cool.

While a save up for the Trumpet Reference

I have one other question. The Bugle Pro only has turnover settings for the bass, cut is for treble measured at 10kHz, is my understanding correct? Sorry if it's obvious!

A second question.....I can get my hands on a Cornet2, the Monogram mods to the original Cornet look like they'd work on the Cornet2, albeit as stereo version. Are there any issues with doing this?

Appologies for going OT.

Clive

hagtech · « **Reply #26 on:** 3 Dec 2013, 07:07 am »

Yes, you could build up a C2 with MONOGRAM circuit.

jh

hagtech · « **Reply #27 on:** 12 Jan 2014, 07:33 pm »

I made a time-lapse video of how I build the BUGLE2...

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=417691971695099

jh

izerbi · « **Reply #28 on:** 13 Feb 2014, 03:08 pm »

Outstanding!
Finally arranged some time to build the bugle2 and I’m very pleased.
It replaces the bugle and just like Jim said the noise at 60db gain is significantly lower, it is now residual and in no way an issue anymore, brilliant! I believe there is more detail now and a bigger soundstage with better separation of channels. Good stuff!
Went for the cans with the heatsinks and everything fits nicely in the box, also like the led. Decided to improvise some sockets for the gain and loading resistors but I’m not entirely sure about any contact issues with time, the cans look very solid in the sockets though.
First time I turned it on I realized that unlike the bugle this one needs the ground connection, did that and music is on!
Congratulations Jim on another fantastic kit which is fun to build and delivers an excellent performance.

Folsom · « **Reply #29 on:** 14 Feb 2014, 02:09 am »

Those cans are magic. I'm curious how JFET stages sound compared to them. I tried the OPA2134 that was for the original Bugle, in my Bugle, in just the output stage. I turned it off, it's a joke. There just isn't a contest.

However I also tried going back to Caddock TF resistors for the input on my original Bugle. Thats after replacing them with these. That was just as bad as trying to use the OPA2134 again.

The input resistors, any before the first opamp, should without any shadow of a doubt be LDR's. I don't care what your reservations are about them, by the time the signal gets through to the end you won't care. This is the difference between putting a fleece blanket over your ears while listening at a moderate volume. I wish I was exaggerating, but without the LDR's I lost anything that I'd consider to be "Hi-Fi" in the listening. It went from audiophile to audiopile.

It's nice to see the high grade stuff in yours. But if I'm not mistaken it appears you could also upgrade signal path resistors with something like PRP's or Dale's RN55, that'll fit nicely and not cost you an arm and a leg. However, put LDR's in for R16 L/R. The resistors I'd upgrade (besides R16), R 1, 4, 5, 7, 9, 10, 12, 15 L/R. Then if you want to get even more fancy, C 2, 3, 9, 10, 13, 14, 17, 18 could be these bad boys.

These look awfully handy to reduce a little inductance and brain strain.

Ya, I'm one of those silly tweaking people (trying to give you the disease). But ya know, Jim designs some good sounding stuff; that sounds real nice when you let is breath.

hagtech · « **Reply #30 on:** 21 Feb 2014, 06:08 am »

Quote

You know the only signal path capacitor is C6 L/R

Actually, C4 and C5 are also directly in the signal path.

jh

JohnR · « **Reply #31 on:** 4 Mar 2014, 10:27 am »

Hi folks, if it's of interest I wrote a short photo-essay on assembling the Bugle 2 - http://www.hifizine.com/2014/03/assembling-the-bugle-2-phono-stage/

Jim's time-lapse video is very cool. I did actually write the above quite some time ago, just a delay in publishing

Wolfgang III · « **Reply #32 on:** 5 Mar 2014, 10:14 am »

Hello AC,
I have just completed the bugle 2 and it seems to work fine although the volume from one channel is lower than on the other, I have tried to troubleshoot by changing the cables around and switching to another input on the amp but everything verifies issue is in the bugle white channel somewhere. Is this to do with my work or could it be a component problem, granted I am a novice so it may well be my poor craftsmanship.

thanks.

Speedskater · « **Reply #33 on:** 5 Mar 2014, 03:40 pm »

At least it's easier to troubleshoot a stereo unit with only one bad channel.
You can compare the DC voltages from channel to channel.
Or measure the resistors from channel to channel. The values won't match the printed number while in circuit, but they should be the same channel to channel

Wolfgang III · « **Reply #34 on:** 7 Mar 2014, 02:50 pm »

Thanks for the reply. I shall have a look may be next week and see if I can draw any conclusions.

oldman45 · « **Reply #35 on:** 19 Mar 2014, 03:37 pm »

This is my first post on this site. I just wanted to say thanks to Jim for creating a great product.

I bought the Bugle 2 last summer and finally got around to putting it together in the fall. It took me a while because I was busy I haven't messed with assembling something that complex in a long time. I also had to scrounge up a few extra pieces, such as trim pots and op amp sockets, to complete the project. After struggling with finding a decent soldering iron, things went much smoother. My old iron just wouldn't heat like it should and then I let the salesman at RadioShack talk me into buying a 60 watt iron. I knew it would be too hot, but I tried it anyway. That thing would begin to burn the board if I held it too close. I ended up buying an iron with a variable temp control. It works very well.

The only mods I made were to use OPAMP sockets so that I could easily swap out OP amps. I also replaced the 47k input resistor with 100k trim pots so that I could play with the sound. I have a V15vxmr cart and I wanted to see if it made a difference to give it more impedance like people suggest to do. Honestly, I "think" I can hear a faint difference by adjusting it, but not enough to make it worthwhile.

Jim, I do have a question about the MC amp section. How does the sound of Bugle 2 MC amp compare the Piccolo? I just acquired an Audio-Technica AT33EV cart. It has a .3mv output. Is the upgrade to the Piccolo worth the cost or will the Bugle 2 be comparable?

oldman45 · « **Reply #36 on:** 19 Mar 2014, 03:40 pm »

Quote from: Wolfgang III on 5 Mar 2014, 10:14 am

Hello AC,
I have just completed the bugle 2 and it seems to work fine although the volume from one channel is lower than on the other, I have tried to troubleshoot by changing the cables around and switching to another input on the amp but everything verifies issue is in the bugle white channel somewhere. Is this to do with my work or could it be a component problem, granted I am a novice so it may well be my poor craftsmanship.

thanks.

Did you match the components from one channel to another before assembly? I tested all of my resistors and tried to match each channel as closely as possible. Mine match up very well. Also, have you swapped the turntable cables to see if it is the table? When I first got mine connected, it was off balance. It ended up being dirty contacts on the cartridge pins.

Wolfgang III · « **Reply #37 on:** 22 Mar 2014, 01:14 pm »

Hi Oldman45, thanks for the reply. In short, I didn't match up the resistors before soldering and I have switched around the TT cables to make sure that was not the problem.
I haven't had a chance to take it apart again yet, not sure when I will get a chance to be honest, loads of work on the horizon, I'll be on the road for a few months. I decided when I do get a chance to have a look at it I might do some modification so I ordered the cans suggested by Salis Audio. One question though,does anyone know how are they orientated? When I do look into it again I will post my conclusions.

poty · « **Reply #38 on:** 23 Mar 2014, 01:44 pm »

Quote from: oldman45 on 19 Mar 2014, 03:37 pm

Jim, I do have a question about the MC amp section. How does the sound of Bugle 2 MC amp compare the Piccolo? I just acquired an Audio-Technica AT33EV cart. It has a .3mv output. Is the upgrade to the Piccolo worth the cost or will the Bugle 2 be comparable?

Sorry to intervene... Piccolo is not a phono preamp, it is a pre-preamp, like a substitution for SUT, so in this regard the correct way is to use Bugle 2 (MC version) alone or Piccolo - Bugle 2 (MM version) combo. IMHO, the second option is much better. Second IMHO - to use as much of the Piccolo amplification as possible and lower the gain of the Bugle 2 (at least in the first stage, better - to share equally amongst all stages). Third IMHO, upgrade the level to some Hi-End gear like Trumpet.

oldman45 · « **Reply #39 on:** 23 Mar 2014, 07:16 pm »

Thanks for the response and clarification. Even though I understood about the Piccolo, I did a bad job of expressing it.

While I would love to have it, I certainly can't afford the Trumpet. I've decided to stick with the Bugle 2 for now and see if the Piccolo head amp makes a difference later on.