Kraemer Designs D~400 Hypex NC400 Mono Amp Build

jtwrace · « **Reply #100 on:** 22 Apr 2013, 09:43 pm »

Quote from: Rclark on 22 Apr 2013, 09:39 pm

Like I said, not that it's even needed here. Besides, I don't need to do an analysis, that's what you're here for.

Maybe but it's not my enclosure....

ufokillerz · « **Reply #101 on:** 22 Apr 2013, 09:49 pm »

no need for arguments here, Kraemer is always open to suggestions and has been great to talk to!

I have never really seen delrin feet before for audio stuff, that is why i asked, if there are any real problems with delrin in this application, i'm sure it would be appreciated if someone pointed it out. Mainly because i am getting a set from Kraemer, and would love for anything to get banged out before hand.

jtwrace · « **Reply #102 on:** 22 Apr 2013, 09:51 pm »

Quote from: ufokillerz on 22 Apr 2013, 09:49 pm

no need for arguments here

Definitely no arguments here.

AluminatiSound · « **Reply #103 on:** 22 Apr 2013, 09:51 pm »

I got this material for free. There's free delrin here at my shop to make thousands of feet....

Absolutely nothing wrong with delrin.

Matt

AluminatiSound · « **Reply #104 on:** 22 Apr 2013, 09:53 pm »

The only thing i can see happening is the amp might slide around with delrin feet but the case will weigh enough. Even so, i will change it out to rubber or add rubber pads to the bottom of the delrin feet if need be.

Matt

mojave · « **Reply #105 on:** 22 Apr 2013, 10:07 pm »

Krell uses Delrin feet. From the KSA 150/250 owner's manual:

"The feet on the KSA-150 or KSA-250 can be used three different ways. They are made from machined Delrin and are supplied with separate rubber bottoms and mounting screws. The rubber bottom can be screwed into the Delrin for the protection of fragile surfaces such as hardwood floors or furniture. For use on rugs or carpeting, using the feet without the rubber bottoms is recommended. You may purchase, from your authorized dealer, a set of Acoustic Mass Dampers (AMDs). AMDs are custom-machined stainless steel feet fitted with a threaded insert and a washer made from acoustically absorbent material. When threaded into the Delrin feet, the AMS will decouple the amplifier from vibrations present on the surface where the unit is installed."

jackman · « **Reply #106 on:** 22 Apr 2013, 10:52 pm »

Nice work Matt! Your CNC artistry is the best I've seen on this site. Looking forward to seeing the finished products.

Jack

AluminatiSound · « **Reply #107 on:** 22 Apr 2013, 11:08 pm »

Thanks Jack!!

I am doing the sides currently. Almost done

Put the PSU vents in too, Made them straight instead of angled, as it looked better.

Matt

AluminatiSound · « **Reply #108 on:** 23 Apr 2013, 12:33 am »

Today i machined the case to thickness and did the sides of the case.

The cases were 3.010" and i cut them to 3.000".

Put the cases on their sides and cut some chips!!

Lots of pictures

The leftovers lol

My 18awg solid core copper hook wire came today from bulkwire.com.

All that is left is the front, back and bottom. Tomorrow if i get a call on my speakers and turntable i will go get them but if they do not call, i will be machining the front (Kraemer Designs logo).

Matt

AluminatiSound · « **Reply #109 on:** 23 Apr 2013, 10:06 pm »

I might get my cases anodized a bordeaux red

Got some parts today in that color and they look great!!

Matt

Rclark · « **Reply #110 on:** 23 Apr 2013, 10:47 pm »

I was just going to suggest anodizing. They do look damn good, and the grills turned out nicely too.

AluminatiSound · « **Reply #111 on:** 23 Apr 2013, 10:54 pm »

Quote from: Rclark on 23 Apr 2013, 10:47 pm

I was just going to suggest anodizing. They do look damn good, and the grills turned out nicely too.

Thanks man

I'll post more pictures on GR thread later tonight.

Matt

AluminatiSound · « **Reply #112 on:** 26 Apr 2013, 12:33 am »

Today i machined the front of the case, where my logo and model D~400 goes. It was a very fast cycle. It took 4 minutes and 30 seconds to complete.

Before operation.

After.

More pictures

Next will be the back. I'll make all the holes for the connectors, also engrave "NCORE". I had planned on doing a very crazy logo back there but have decided to scale it way back, because of machine time and it is my case, the Ncore's are just inside. Lastly the bottom will be hallowed out and testing will begin

AluminatiSound · « **Reply #113 on:** 26 Apr 2013, 02:07 am »

I'm starting to see if there's interest in more cases.

I can make a few runs of 14-20 cases at a time.

Pm or email me mkbenchmark@gmail.com

Matt

AluminatiSound · « **Reply #114 on:** 30 Apr 2013, 01:36 am »

Today i machined the back where all the connectors go. I positioned the power switch vertically so it would be more natural to power it on and off.

Tomorrow i will start hogging out the bottom

Matt

dragoonxp20 · « **Reply #115 on:** 30 Apr 2013, 01:52 am »

Looks amazing.

I really wish everything was designed well.

medium jim · « **Reply #116 on:** 30 Apr 2013, 01:55 am »

Matt:

Pretty cool, 25 years young and you can CAD & CNC that good. The world is your oyster my friend!

Jim

Norman Tracy · « **Reply #117 on:** 30 Apr 2013, 04:50 pm »

Matt,

I’ll join the chorus and say this is some very nice work. I want to especially compliment you on your styling. In this project and the repackaging of your Emotiva gear you have developed a design language that is bold and visually arresting. CNC cased hi-fi gear is quite the thing these days and you are avoiding the all too common follow the leader syndrome with too many designs looking like Jeff Roland Design Group or Ayre Acoustics Inc..

From design to process now I have a couple of questions. You may want to answer these now or just tell me “wait and see”.

Why did you complete the top, sides, and ends first and save “hogging out the bottom” until the end? To this wannabe machinist it seems you have to clamp the cases in your mill using already finished surfaces.

How do you intend to de-burr and prep the metal for finishing? Much as I love the dramatic angled fin features ending in the wave cuts it seems you could make a career out of de-burring those features and getting the mill marks off prior to anodizing. Can you just bead blast it and off to the plating shop?

Again, kudos for your design chops and craftsmanship.

Norman Tracy

AluminatiSound · « **Reply #118 on:** 30 Apr 2013, 05:19 pm »

Quote from: Norman Tracy on 30 Apr 2013, 04:50 pm

Matt,

I’ll join the chorus and say this is some very nice work. I want to especially compliment you on your styling. In this project and the repackaging of your Emotiva gear you have developed a design language that is bold and visually arresting. CNC cased hi-fi gear is quite the thing these days and you are avoiding the all too common follow the leader syndrome with too many designs looking like Jeff Roland Design Group or Ayre Acoustics Inc..

From design to process now I have a couple of questions. You may want to answer these now or just tell me “wait and see”.

Why did you complete the top, sides, and ends first and save “hogging out the bottom” until the end? To this wannabe machinist it seems you have to clamp the cases in your mill using already finished surfaces.

How do you intend to de-burr and prep the metal for finishing? Much as I love the dramatic angled fin features ending in the wave cuts it seems you could make a career out of de-burring those features and getting the mill marks off prior to anodizing. Can you just bead blast it and off to the plating shop?

Again, kudos for your design chops and craftsmanship.

Norman Tracy

Hi Norman,

I've ran this part (case) just like i would anything else i do here. You need to establish good edges and parallel/perpendicular sides. This sets you up for the best outcome. If we started with the bottom first, it would make it hard to do the sides, top and bottom, since i would need very tall vice jaws to securely hold onto the part (case).

You never want to get cornered being a machinist. The first operation is the most critical. Sometimes i sit for an hour just turning the solid model on my computer screen, which side should i do first.

I will be using 3m scotch brite pads. They are the aggressive type ones. Takes all the mill lines and machining marks off. It'll look very consistent after using these pads.

Tonight i will be starting (hopefully finishing) the last operation, which is the bottom.

Matt

ufokillerz · « **Reply #119 on:** 30 Apr 2013, 05:24 pm »

i still find it quite amazing now, considering that Matt only showed drawings of these about 3 weeks ago, and here were are now with this much progress into a new design