speaker stand ideas for 1801b

fajimr · « **on:** 5 Jul 2004, 06:32 pm »

as I patiently wait for my 1801s........ I would like to get some ideas from others about speaker stands- both DIY and prefab. Photos and contact info would be especially helpful.

David Ellis · « **Reply #1 on:** 9 Jul 2004, 04:47 pm »

Speaker stands can be darn expensive commercially. I posted some DIY recommendations here:

Quote

http://www.ellisaudio.com/spkrstands.htm

Asided from this, a pair of sound anchors or Lovan stands will cost about $250 . This is expensive, but those stands are very solid.

EProvenzano · « **Reply #2 on:** 9 Jul 2004, 06:27 pm »

I have a pair of stands that is ready for paint.
I'll be able to post pics in a couple weeks....need to work them into the paint booth schedule at my dad's shop.

I went a different route and made 9wx18hx14d pillars from 3/4" mdf. There is a single horizontal brace about half way up that will function as a divider for filling the bottom half with sand. I figured, keeping the center of mass lower to the gound should keep these stands tip proof...and twin proof

. I may fill the top half with something lighter.

The bottom of the stands are floored with 1" thick mdf plates, aprox 14" x 19".

Paint will be 2 stage gloss black.

I used this project to brush up on my box making skills and biscut jointing. On to bigger and better things soon, I hope....
Bondo is a wonderful thing!

EP

robertwb · « **Reply #3 on:** 10 Jul 2004, 05:32 am »

I just put some pics in the gallery

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=340[url]

lonewolfny42 · « **Reply #4 on:** 10 Jul 2004, 07:06 am »

Quote from: robertwb

I just put some pics in the gallery

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=340[url]

Thats a nice looking rack that you've built for your equipement...plenty of room !!!

dk · « **Reply #5 on:** 16 Nov 2004, 11:24 pm »

Hi All

That perennial question again - speaker stands. I've built my 1801s, and have now also built some stands based loosely on Dave Ellis' design on the website. I built a square section pillar out of MDF instead of using a PVC pipe, but the rest is pretty similar.

So I have a base of 1 1/2" thickness MDF (2 3/4" sheets glued together) and a top of 3/4" MDF, and this is about 5mm less than the 1801 footprint on all sides.

I have spikes on the bottom of the stands, but....how to attach the speakers to the stands? They sit there quite happily, but will slide off if given any assistance - no good if children appear on the scene any time soon! Any recommendations? Upwards facing spikes and the 1801s sitting on them - still not super child-friendly? Bolts through from underneath? Leaving a gap between speaker & base, or attaching it with no gap? Any material inbetween? Dave seems to think that barstools do as good a job as anything, which suggests any means of attachment would be suitable without impacting sound....

Lots of questions - I'm just after the best possible sound, but with a nice solid attachment. Any advice most gratefully accepted.

Once the stands are painted, will post some pics.

David Ellis · « **Reply #6 on:** 16 Nov 2004, 11:53 pm »

This is a very good question. Indeed exposure to children changes the entire spectrum of possibilities. I suggest using some of those little rubber pads commonly used for drawer stops on the base of the stand. They will stick to the stand and the rubber on the other side will grip the speakers.

Dave

dk · « **Reply #7 on:** 17 Nov 2004, 12:03 am »

Thanks Dave!
Off to the hardware store then...
What's your view on using a rubber pad witha hole in the middle (a rubber donut, if you like), and bolting through from underneath as well? I could glue a nut into the wood on the underside of the speaker (who looks there anyway, right?!)
Just wondering whether attaching it that firmly to the base would affect sonics at all? Bass?
Many thanks - we're having a ball listening to music again, rather than amps & speakers!
Dave

David Ellis · « **Reply #8 on:** 17 Nov 2004, 12:11 am »

I really can't "picture" the hole in the middle concept.

I suggest placing a rubber pad on the 4 corners of the top pedestal.

I don't think there will be any audible impact. The 1801 cabinet has enough mass.

dk · « **Reply #9 on:** 17 Nov 2004, 12:16 am »

Dave
Sorry - I meant 4 rubber pads on each corner, as you suggested, but also small stainless steel bolts through the stand from underneath, through the middle of these pads, into the speaker cabinet itself.
Maybe it's overkill? Better to overkill the stand than have it cause any damage to living things I suppose!
Thanks again,
Dave

Al Garay · « **Reply #10 on:** 17 Nov 2004, 12:20 am »

dk,

It's overkill. A friend uses play-dough on his 1801 stands. Works well.

Al

dk · « **Reply #11 on:** 17 Nov 2004, 12:25 am »

Hi Al
Brilliant! I will put the drill away...
Dave

F-100 · « **Reply #12 on:** 17 Nov 2004, 12:27 am »

Quote from: dk

how to attach the speakers to the stands?

Can you buy Blue Tak in the Land Down Under?

If so, give it a try.

EProvenzano · « **Reply #13 on:** 17 Nov 2004, 12:46 am »

I've used Blutack with excellent results. Apply 4-5 gobs of the stuff on the top plate and squish the speaker down.
It acts like a temporary adhesive. In fact, the last speaker I tried to remove from the stand required a helper

It is important that the top plate of the stand and the bollom of the speaker be finished to a smooth shine. I find it sticks better.

Good luck.
EP

dk · « **Reply #14 on:** 17 Nov 2004, 12:49 am »

Thanks guys - we sure do have Blu-tac here. Makes for good speaker gasket material as well. They should charge more for the stuff!

David Ellis · « **Reply #15 on:** 17 Nov 2004, 02:30 am »

Ahhh, so you wan't to bolt the stand to the speaker. This is fine.

If you are seeking greater stability for your stand, I suggest purchasing a 10" wide x 15" long x 1" thick chunck of steel for the base. Finding a chunk of steel with take a few phone calls, but it's viable. Start by asking for a referral from a welding shop. Attach/bolt your current base to this chunk of steel (after painting the steel). It'll be very stable.

Dave

David Ellis · « **Reply #16 on:** 17 Nov 2004, 02:31 am »

Oh,

You might use poster putty. This stuff is great. Play dough will dry-out over time. Poster putty remains sticky and pliable.

Dave

robertwb · « **Reply #17 on:** 17 Nov 2004, 03:13 am »

I used sorbothane between my speakers and stands (I think it was 1/8"-got it from McMasterCarr)-at first I was experimenting with decoupling the speakers from the stand(I know it SEEMS like the wrong idea)-it didn't really make any difference

I've since upgraded to larger speakers and kept the sorbo but it's squished beyond doing what it was for by the heavier speaker

but it does have a tenacious grip-and I still use it just for that-my stands(link posted earlier) weigh about 65 lbs and if you're strong enough you could lift the speakers(25lbs) and the stands stay attached-just be warned it might damage any finish on the mating surfaces(or maybe my paint was still not fully cured)