I should really be working but…
Actually, in an RC filter the phase does start shifting before the signal has any noticeable attenuation. It can be seen with an oscilloscope.
For a low pass filter: at high freq the capacitors reactance is very small and the phase shift is almost nil, at the fc point the caps reactance equals the dc resistance and the phase shift is 45 degrees, and at low frequency the cap reactance is very high compared to the resistance and the phase shift is almost 90 degrees.
Phase shift in cables is a bad thing because it screws up all we do to keep the music in phase at all frequencies and time aligned at the listeners ears. Although, this is not normally a problem with reasonably good quality cables. I like to say away from weird designer flavor cables, simpler is usually better.
If you set up an oscilloscope to show both, a sine wave going into a RC filter (well away from fc) and the same sine wave coming out and then put them at the same scale and on the same baseline on top of each other they look like a single wave form.
Then start to adjust the signal generator in the direction of fc. As the capacitive reactance starts to "kick-in" becoming larger the phase starts to shift and now you can see the sine waves start to separate on the scope, amplitude still about the same but the filtered sine wave is shifting in phase. This starts to happen well before the -3dB fc point and reaches about 45 degrees at -3dB.
Interesting this electronics stuff...
Tips 4 Mathew_M :
1. I have put voltage dividers right on the input RCAs before, inside the preamp box. Sometimes this is easy and cheaper. Just a thought.
2. Your MB-100/Leamp amps are very easy to drive. Listen to them for a while and see what you think.
The load stiffness “rule of thumb” 10:1 or 100:1 originally was for voltage sources that can not drive a load, do not have enough output current. Not really an original audio rule.
Most audio sources easily drive a 22.1K load. If you do change the input impedance of a device and go to high, say 100K plus on the input impedance you can unbalance the input bias current and actually make excessive noise. You can wind up worse off.
I would listen first if all is OK do nothing. But, if your not happy your not stuck.
If you feel the dynamics are missing simply change R4 (22.1K) on the amplifier PCB to 47.5K MF 1%. Then your amplifier input impedance will be 47.5K. I would go no higher than that.
You should be able to change it from the top of the PCB without ripping the entire amp apart.
BTW : This can be done at our service center without voiding the warranty.
(I had to say that)