[lacro]

 When I ordered my kit from Danny, I knew full well that Danny, and most everyone else suggested using Norez. However, while talking with Danny I decided to upgrade to the X-LS Encore which added $50 to my original thought of the X-LS kit. So... I skipped the Norez for my first build (this time).

I decided I would try the floor tile method which involves a lot more time and work, but I am a glut ant for punishment I picked up the thicker tiles that are not self stick at HD. I had some contact cement (the nasty stuff) someone gave me. I  Used a radial arm saw, utility knife and tin snips to make the cuts. However, just a utility knife, straight edge, and tin snips would get the same results.


Here's a stack of pre cut tiles ready for installing:



All tiles glued in. It took most of an afternoon to complete, but less than $6 invested. Still need some foam though.





Remember... I screwed up and glued on one of my backs the wrong way with the recess for the speaker terminals facing inside I was able to fix the problem.




I used the plug from a 2-5/8" hole saw to fill the hole, and just re cut the recess with the router.



When I cut my pieces for the boxes, I messed one up and cut it short. I didn't have any 3/4" "dumpster dive" MDF big enough to make a new one, so I "Improvised" 



Being the boat builder I am, I use tools I am familiar with: This is a flat long board sander I made. It works really well for leveling all sides of the box. It is much better than a power sander. I actually own 2 palm sanders, 1 finish sander, a random orbit sander, and several disc sanders, but the "long board" is by far my favorite!





Now... I am to the point where I have a few questions before proceeding.




Larry

[S Clark]

Nicely done.  Next step- add an inch of carpet padding, leaving a spot for your crossover. 
Scott

[lacro]

Nicely done.  Next step- add an inch of carpet padding, leaving a spot for your crossover. 
Scott

Scott,
 Is carpet pad open cell?

Larry

[S Clark]

Scott,
 Is carpet pad open cell?

Larry

Yes, and it's cheap and available.  The quick test for open/closed cell is to hold it compressed to your mouth and blow through it. 

[lacro]

I have a few questions:
I have one suggestion for foam (carpet pad) anyone else have a favorite i might consider?
 Also, Should there be any dampening material (tiles) or foam applied to the front baffle?

TIA,

Larry

[cody69]

+1 for carpet padding. If you look you'll find there are different grades of padding -- the better stuff is more dense and rigid. Around here the big box stores have remnants you can pick up for next to nothing.

I've never done treated the front baffle. By the time you're done placing damping material on the other surfaces, there never seemed like enough surface to worry about. But good question and I'm interested in what others have to say.

[django11]

I'm pretty sure Danny has said  it is not required on the front baffle.  There is very little left to treat in any event...

[lacro]

I have been trying to decide what to use for foam inside my boxes. I have checked everywhere in my area, and can't find anything I think is suitable. I checked out the carpet foam, but the stuff I found around here is pure crap. It crumbles in my hand. I can't blow through it, probably because it has a skin on one side. The current available carpet pad is lousy stuff. Maybe a better carpet outlet has better stuff that you guys have had success with, but there isn't one in my area.
 Do you guys have any more suggestions that are tried and true? Some fiberglass was being tossed at work, so I grabbed it. It is about 2-1/2" thick fully fluffed, and is layered so it can be easily be pulled apart to any thickness.
Would this fiberglass be as good as foam if I strip it to about 1" and glue it in?



 Or should I just get some eggcrate speaker foam from Parts Express.

http://www.parts-express.com/images/item_standard/260-516_s.jpg


Larry

[pureiso]

Actually fiberglass would work better than foam, it is just not easy to work with.  As for the exact amount to use, I would recommend 80% full of fiberglass.  If the lower end is too much then remove until you find a balance you like.  Just make sure the port is unobstructed.

[Ron]

  Another product that works very well is Acousta - Stuf that is available from Parts Express in 1 lb bags.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=260-317

 I have used it before. Seems to provide deeper, tighter bass and cleaner midrange performance.

[Danny Richie]

That fiberglass works fine. I use it all the time.

[lacro]

That fiberglass works fine. I use it all the time.

 Ok Danny.... Thanks for that info, but knowing the speakers I am building (X-LS Encore), how much FG would you suggest I use. Would I use the same thickness as if I was using foam or No-Rez? or does it require more? I am itchin to get itchy 

Thanks,
Larry

[Danny Richie]

Ok Danny.... Thanks for that info, but knowing the speakers I am building (X-LS Encore), how much FG would you suggest I use. Would I use the same thickness as if I was using foam or No-Rez? or does it require more? I am itchin to get itchy 

Thanks,
Larry

You want to cover each wall and use a light fill of it behind the woofer (not packed in). And leave a clear air path to the port. 

[lacro]

I got my fiberglass insulation installed. I used my tried and true 3M 77 spray adhesive to stick it to the walls. I have been spending way too much time trying to find laminate to use for my finish. It is just non existent locally, especially with a nice woodgrain look. If I want to do a 100 mile RT, I could get a full sheet that I don't need.
 Peter has offered to get me what I need and send it to me (thanks for the offer Peter), but for my first build, I am just going to do the paint thing. I fully realize painting will be much more difficult than the laminate, but it's going to allow me to keep moving forward. Maybe the next build (we all know there WILL be a "next build") I will try laminate.
 Another reason for the paint method is I really like the look of rounded edges, and that would be quite difficult with laminate.
 So.... I temporarily installed my front baffle so I could square all edges with the router. I then did the round over
on all edges. I had considered many different ways to do this, but finally decided to round ALL edges. I am pleased with the look so far!



I ground the heads smaller on some wood screws so my roundover router bit wouldn't  hit the screw head. These screws will be removed after final gluing.



All edges rounded:



Larry...
 

[lacro]

I have a couple of questions:
 Has anyone ever used epoxy to seal MDF before painting? I use epoxy a lot, and it would seem that it would work good for sealing the MDF, especially the ends. Any thoughts?
 I am ready to add the wires to the crossovers. Should I assume the red wire was intended to be positive and the white negative? Also, The drivers are not marked +/- Is the larger (wider) tab the + side that will receive the red wire?

 Any help/ideas are appreciated....

Thanks,
Larry

[Captainhemo]

Hi Larry
I know you  origanlly planning on using laminate...  now you're planning on painting.    For a  look that is a cross between the  2,    spray on truck  bed liner   turns ouot pretty good. I used it on my sub enclosure  and I quite like it.  Super durablew too !!  There are a couple pics in my gallery of it.
 Counter- sinking thosse screws a bit might  be  easier to make room for your roundover next time.  I contersink mine  and just leave them in after  final glue up.
Enjoying  floolowing your build progress , good job 

[S Clark]

I have a couple of questions:
 Has anyone ever used epoxy to seal MDF before painting? I use epoxy a lot, and it would seem that it would work good for sealing the MDF, especially the ends. Any thoughts?
 I am ready to add the wires to the crossovers. Should I assume the red wire was intended to be positive and the white negative? Also, The drivers are not marked +/- Is the larger (wider) tab the + side that will receive the red wire?

 Any help/ideas are appreciated....

Thanks,
Larry

Epoxy would be a great sealer if your are used to using it.  The red wires are usually used as positive, and the broader tabs are usually the positive tabs on a speaker.  Captainhemo recommended truck liner, and it does look pretty good.  Some of the "hammered" look rattle can paints can be attractive as well. 

Scott

[lacro]

Epoxy would be a great sealer if your are used to using it.  The red wires are usually used as positive, and the broader tabs are usually the positive tabs on a speaker.  Captainhemo recommended truck liner, and it does look pretty good.  Some of the "hammered" look rattle can paints can be attractive as well. 

Scott

Scott,
 I may give the epoxy a try, I happen to have several gallons. I may try thinning it for max penetration, even though that's normally a bad idea as it reduces strength.
 I hope your theory is correct as I have already soldered the wires on the boards using red as plus. Maybe Danny can confirm the broader tabs are indeed + on these drivers?
 My biggest concern with painting is the butt joints showing through the paint.


Larry

[lacro]

Hi Larry
I know you  origanlly planning on using laminate...  now you're planning on painting.    For a  look that is a cross between the  2,    spray on truck  bed liner   turns ouot pretty good. I used it on my sub enclosure  and I quite like it.  Super durablew too !!  There are a couple pics in my gallery of it.
 Counter- sinking thosse screws a bit might  be  easier to make room for your roundover next time.  I contersink mine  and just leave them in after  final glue up.
Enjoying  floolowing your build progress , good job 

 I still think laminate is by far the easiest way to build, but when I do this again, I will have the laminate long before I need it. Not sure how far I will go with the finish quality with these cabinets.

 I have used rattle can stone look spray to to hide sins on MDF for speaker stands, and painting them semi flat black which turned out pretty nice, but I think I want something a little better this time. I may change my mind after the first screw-up

 Actually I did countersink the screws along with narrowing their heads on the first cabinet, but I did the roundover with the router on the sides/top/bottom instead of the router flat on the front baffle. I thought the woofer hole was a little close to the edge, and I might have a hard time keeping it flat (dipping into the woofer hole). However, in doing so, the bearing on the roundover bit dropped into the countersink hole, creating a divot in the roundover cut on the baffle at each hole. I will have to fix this divot.

 The second cabinet, I just counterbored the depth of the head to prevent this from happening again. I did space the screws far enough in so the roundover wouldn't hit the screw head.

 I enjoy watching your build too!

Larry

[Captainhemo]

My biggest concern with painting is the butt joints showing through the paint.


Larry

What about going over the  seams with  "bondo" or some other  body filler ?

-jay