[EuroDriver]

+1  Be sure to twist them in the opposite direction from the internal amp wiring, too.

<><

Dave

The reason for twisting them in the opposite direction is . . . . Or you are pulling our legs ?

[Atlplasma]

I found the IEC to make a nice difference as well. I was quite surprised as to the degree of difference. I also changed the fuse out when they went on sale at VH Audio and was pleased with that. I used Vampire binding posts, but did no comparison with others. Though down the road I will try what Rich had suggested. My wire came yesterday from Hypex. I hope to get it in today or tomorrow. 

I forgot to mention that mjock3 suggested the Furutech IEC in a PM.  On the fuse, which one did you go with?

[mjock3]

I went with the HiFi Tuning ones. Not sure how they compare to others.

Have you received the wire update?

[Speedskater]

The reason for twisting them in the opposite direction is . . . . Or you are pulling our legs ?

He's not pulling your leg because it will reduce coupling and noise pick-up,  but the difference will be very, very small.

[Atlplasma]

I went with the HiFi Tuning ones. Not sure how they compare to others.

Have you received the wire update?

Not yet. Will post when it arrives, and I get it installed.

[turbogti]

I forgot to mention that mjock3 suggested the Furutech IEC in a PM.  On the fuse, which one did you go with?

how about skipping the fuse...?

[Atlplasma]

how about skipping the fuse...?

  Are you suggesting removing the fuse from the power supply?

[ajst2duk]

This thread has been quiet for a while, so maybe I can get things going again. 

I used two of the Silicon Ray enclosures for my build and started with inexpensive IEC connectors from Parts Express. This weekend I replaced the IEC with Furutech FI-10 Gs. It could be wishful thinking, but I think the Furutech are providing a cleaner, more open sound for my system.

I'm considering replacing the speaker binding posts next. Again, I started with cheap parts for Parts Express. I would be interested in opinions on whether this is a useful upgrade and what members are using for this connection.

I've used Eichmann ETI cable pods - in fact I also have these on my speakers. I've yet to find a better solution than these, they are well designed, they are easy to use, and sound just great.

[rklein]

It has been a while since I posted anything regarding the NCore's.  I have made a few improvements over the past month or so and though I would post what I did.  I have my NCore mono's in a Sillicone RE2207 case with the very nice face plates that Jason (jtwrace) made.

I first replaced the power wires with a very nice set of wires that I sourced from a fellow AC member.  He shall remain anonymous as he freely sent these to me. 

I then replaced my IEC's with the Furutech FI-10 G's and also applied Soundcoat self-adhesive damping material where ever I could put it in the RE2207 case. (thanks Mark(mjock)). 

I replaced the Mogami input wire with the "new & improved" stuff sent out by Hypex. 

I ran my speaker hookup wire(DH Labs T-14) through a hole(along with a rubber grommet) I drilled between my speaker binding posts on the back panel and then used the Apex Jr. binding posts as a "clamp". (thanks Ric Shultz)

Lastly, I purchased a pair of Synergistic Research Quantum Fuses (thanks Anand)

The NCores with the above improvments are very satisfying.  I have read plenty of remarks on the pros and cons of the NCores.  However, with the changes I have made, these amps (to my ears) are very transparent.  They draw me into the music and I don't want to leave the room.  The NCores always were great in the bass.  Tuneful and tight.  However, the highs are now much more extended and the imaging is damn well spot on.  I have yet to try different power cords and am still using a Volex on both amps.   

After listening to the "new & improved" NCores for a while, I am trying some other components.  I have inserted a Mytek DAC (thanks Ted_b  ).   I am using the analogue volume control on the Mytek which allows me to finally run the the NCores balanced via Ted's Furutech XLR cables.  I have also inserted MG Audio Planus 2 speaker cable into my system.  Lastly, I built(with Ted's help) a new C.A.P.S. V.2+ server (New Windows Platform) and am running JRiver V. 18.

Last week, I listened for the first time with this setup to some DSD recordings of Mahler's 2nd Symphony (Fischer conducting the Budapest Festival Orchestra) and some Beethoven Sonatas performed by Mari Kodama.  My system has never sounded so satisfying.  The synergy is fantastic.  I have to also say that I have been a tube guy for years but I find this system to have the best of both worlds soundwise. 

With the improvments I have attained, I might just entertain purchasing two more of the NCore's and possibly bridging them.  However, for now, I will concentrate on choosing one of the new DAC's that offer DSD playback.  After hearing DSD in all its glory, I can't imagine having a DAC without this capability.

Regards,

Randy

[Regnad]

OT, sorry...

Hey Randy.   Would you mind describing your DSD sources and storage?   SACD discs?   Ripped files?   If so, how?   Where from?

Ever since hooking the balanced-outs of my OPPO right to the NCores, the sound is so good that now I am very interested in DSD DACs, etc.

Thanks for any advice.   

Nick

[rklein]

Nick:

Here are some threads related to your questions.  These are located in the HiRez Circle:

Ripping SACD's to get DSD...
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=95396.0

Taking SACD and BluRay directly to your DAC...
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=82217.0

Some DSD capable DACS...
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=110794.0

SACD sources...
http://sa-cd.net/home
www.amazon.com

Hope this helps,

Randy

[Regnad]

Thanks Randy,   I really appreciate it...

Lots to research!

[drmike]

what size fuse did you use, where did you get the sound coat?
thanks,
drmike

[rklein]

Here is where I bought the Sound Coat...

http://www.partsconnexion.com/damping_soundcoat.html

You need a small (5mm x 20mm) 5A slow blow fuse.

Randy

[drmike]

thanks randy.
drmike

[barrows]

So, a little investigating:  The nC400 speaker wire terminations appear to be a combination of materials.  The screw is steel, and the the other parts are non magnetic, which makes me suspect brass.  There are two ways I am thinking of dealing with this (I do not want the steel screw to be there, adding its own magnetic field).  One, replace the steel screw with a brass one, or Two, remove the steel screw and brass square nut, and solder output wires directly to the header.  I am really leaning toward the soldering approach, as there is plenty of surface area to achieve a nice joint, and a quality, well flowed solder joint is preferable to me.
Has anyone soldered speaker wiring directly to the header surface?

[hopkins]

Here is where I bought the Sound Coat...

http://www.partsconnexion.com/damping_soundcoat.html

You need a small (5mm x 20mm) 5A slow blow fuse.

Randy

What is the (theoretical) benefit of adding damping material to the amplifier ?

[jtwrace]

Has anyone soldered speaker wiring directly to the header surface?

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=110782.msg1144617#msg1144617

[rklein]

What is the (theoretical) benefit of adding damping material to the amplifier ?

I will let others who know more about your question answer.

However, here are some links that discuss the question you ask...

http://www.gcaudio.com/resources/howtos/vibration.html

Here is a quote from Ric Shultz's website:

4. Try and eliminate vibrations anywhere you can. Constrained layer damping materials can be added to chassis parts, heat sinks, heat sink tabs on transistors, circuit boards (you do not want any damping material put directly on top of signal carrying parts or traces). Doing so would add the sound of the damping material (dialectric absorption) to the signal. Of course, you want to use the best feet and shelving under your equipment.

I am sure that you could google and find other sites that talk about the benefits of using damping materials in metal enclosures.  Did the damping material help in my case?  Dunno.  Did it hurt in my case.  Certainly not and for a $12 investment for 2 sheets I figured why not try it.

Regards,

Randy

[ted_b]

OT, sorry...

Hey Randy.   Would you mind describing your DSD sources and storage?   SACD discs?   Ripped files?   If so, how?   Where from?

Ever since hooking the balanced-outs of my OPPO right to the NCores, the sound is so good that now I am very interested in DSD DACs, etc.

Thanks for any advice.   

Nick

Nick,
The DSD files were a gift from me (Randy and I have been diligently working on his system and I felt a couple DSF examples were appropriate).  I have my entire SACD collection (about 830 SACD's) ripped to DSF, and have written an SACD Ripping Guide for Dummies pdf primer that I've distributed to hundreds so far.  Feel free to PM me and I'll send out the pdf and the links to get started.

DSF files (DSF format used because it supports full ID3V2 metadata/tagging) are slightly smaller than 24/176k PCM files, so storage is about the same as PCM high rez on average.  And ISO's are also part of the ripped process, which are great for archiving in case yous cratch an SACD or for later DSD multichannel extraction too (that's a project for later).

I have roped another DSD fan.     YES!