[poseidonsvoice]

Very nice.  What's the Audio Magic box?

http://www.audio-magic.com/Prod-PulseGenZX.html

Best,

Anand.

[mkcarnut]

Here is "stage 2" of my build...planning the layout and a custom case.  (Stage 1 was buying the basic parts!)  I would appreciate any input everyone can offer.

I looked at all the traditional cases, and decided I wanted to do my own thing.  So, I have designed cases that will mount to the wall beside the stand holding my other gear and behind my front speakers.  There is a monoblock per speaker.

For my design - I decided to show off the core.  Read on to find out how I am going to do that.

Each has a poplar face (~12*13").  The corners will be rounded off and all edges will be rounded also.  In the location where the NC400 is, there will be a circular hole ~the same diameter as the NC400, with smoked glass covering the hole.  The module will be visible but darkened by the smoked glass.  Wooden standoffs attach to the back of the face plate to space a steel plate (28 gauge - unless someone things I should use aluminum...) about 2" behind the face plate.  The power supply & NC400 will be mounted to this, and this is also where the grounds will connect.  A bottom plate (which would be the back plate, if the units were not wall-mounted) connects to the lower standoffs to hold all the inputs/outputs.  Additional standoffs attach to the back side of the steel plate to ensure airflow between the wall and the steel plate and provide holes to mount the unit to the wall.  Air will also be able to enter the sides and flow upward & out the top (only restricted by some fabric to keep dust out).

A drawing (to scale...each grid is 10*10 mm, fyi) of the plan view follows, followed by a not-to-scale side view drawing to give you a better idea of the layout and what it will look like.  Note that the locations of the wiring runs are approximate, not exact, but the positioning of the major parts is fairly exact.

Again - any input is welcome!

http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss195/klinemj/planviewoflayout.jpg

http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss195/klinemj/sideviewoflayout.jpg

Thanks for any input!

Mark

[srb]

Definitely an interesting design.

Two things I might do if I were building them would be

1.  Use aluminum for the back plate.  As this is the heatsink for the NC400 module, aluminum has ~ 6X the thermal conductivity of steel.

2.  Use a flush mount circular piece of glass.  I think this would look much better than having glass at the back of a 1" deep hole.  The hole would be routed with a recess similar to a tweeter.  Inexpensive 4" round blank glass with finished edge is available sold as round glass coasters.  The tint would be from a piece of window film applied to the backside and would also give you more variation in availability of both color and transparency.  Since you wouldn't be able to install rear clips for the glass, a tiny bead of silicone should hold it securely.

Steve

[doug s.]

i would re-orient the amp and p/s to keep wiring away from other wiring, etc.  sorta like this; you can figure out how you want your window, but keeping wires away from each other is more important, imo:


doug s.

[Airborn]

i would re-orient the amp and p/s to keep wiring away from other wiring, etc.

+1  Bruno has been pretty specific about keeping the wires tightly twisted and as far apart as possible.  Check the diy audio thread, Hypex web site and the Ncore build threads here for specifics.  Great unique design idea though.

[mkcarnut]

Thanks for the input...I have been looking for aluminum thick enough to use, but so far have not found a source.  I will look more this weekend.

As I plan to lay it out, the wires will end up 20 mm apart (and twisted).  I would like to keep the "window" toward the top/center.  But, I can lengthen the top plate by ~2", rotate the power supply, move the wires further apart, and still keep the window top/center.  The revised sketch (below) shows that.  I was kind of thinking I'd like a longer one anyway...it'll be more rectangular, like my Maggie 1.7's the nCores will be driving.  (And I like the coaster idea!  I will have to look for some.  If not, I am sure my local glass supply place can cut them for me.

Thanks for the suggestions, gents!

http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss195/klinemj/planviewoflayoutv2.jpg

[doug s.]

i think you will find that the custom umbilical supplied by ncore that connects the amp w/the p/s will not be long enough to lay out the amp as you have shown in your last drawing.  if you want to have the window towards the top, i think you will be better off laying out the modules similar to what i have shown, and turn the amp clockwise 90 degrees, so that the connectors are on the left side and not on the bottom.  you may also wanna rotate the amp module itself about 45 to 90 degrees counterclockwise in relation to the p/s, to more optimally use the prowided umbilical cord length.

look at the pics shown on page 11 of this thread, which will give you an idea of the actual length of the umbilical - not sure you would wanna re-do this connector.  also, you will find a cut-n-paste layout i did, which could be easily modified to center the amp module by lengthening the speaker and input connection wires; but again, this would leave the connectors on the side of the amp, not on the bottom:


if you want the connectors on the bottom, slide everything down, (making the case larger in this direction), run the power connector up and to the far left of the case, to the side at the top of my drawing, while extending the speaker and input connectors up & to the top side...


basically, what you need to do, is rotate the p/s module 90 degrees clockwise, as shown in your last drawing...

doug s.

[mkcarnut]

The length of the provided cables was a question I had...can anyone share what the actual lengths are for the cables from the PS to the amp & power in to the PS & from amp to XLR?  That would really help as I work the final details.

I do want the plugs on the bottom - I think that will look nicer once hanging on the wall.  And, I would really like the amp module top/center.  (And if not top/center, then one top/left and the other top/right.

So, I modified it like your cut & paste.  The is essentially layout #1, but given the taller case I can position the power supply further to the right of the amp to get more room to keep the cables apart at all points.

I think the cable lengths will be fine now, but if someone can provide the actual provided cable lengths, I'll do a final check on that.  (And then, I'll start woodcutting, sanding, and finishing!)

http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss195/klinemj/planviewoflayoutv3.jpg

Thanks!

Mark

[doug s.]

mark, my only suggestion now, is that you make the case a bit wider, so as to be able to slide the p/s a bit further to the right.  you can always extend the width of the case to the left, if you still want the amp module to be in the exact center.

and, (even if you don't enlarge the case), move the power wiring as far to the right as possible. 



doug s.

[jackman]

http://www.audio-magic.com/Prod-PulseGenZX.html

Best,

Anand.

I think their website has been hacked. It doesn't look right. 

[mkcarnut]

Quick question, Doug...on moving the PS and power inlet/power switch to the right...is that just to get more room between the power cables and the XLR & speaker out cables or for another reason?  Just curious.

I came up with a revised way to build the frame that ends up behind the face plate that will buy be some more room, so I will be able to move the PS a bit further away (both up/down and left/right) from the NC400 module.  Instead of using any wood in the frame, the frame will be 100% aluminum (combination of 0.75-1" extruded "L"-shaped stock and 1-2" extruded flat stock plus a thin aluminum backing plate with added support from a couple rigid flat stock ribs across the width).  As a result, the total size of the box won't increase, but the interior room will.  This will also be more durable than having the wood standoffs.  (And all 3 sides that will be visible behind the face plate will still be covered in fabric to hide the structure yet allow airflow...)

And, the total cost of the cases will be less than a pre-bought case!

Mark

[ted_b]

I think their website has been hacked. It doesn't look right.

Yep.  Well, here's a review, with product info.
http://positive-feedback.com/Issue43/audiomagic_pulse_zx.htm

[doug s.]

Quick question, Doug...on moving the PS and power inlet/power switch to the right...is that just to get more room between the power cables and the XLR & speaker out cables or for another reason?  Just curious.

I came up with a revised way to build the frame that ends up behind the face plate that will buy be some more room, so I will be able to move the PS a bit further away (both up/down and left/right) from the NC400 module.  Instead of using any wood in the frame, the frame will be 100% aluminum (combination of 0.75-1" extruded "L"-shaped stock and 1-2" extruded flat stock plus a thin aluminum backing plate with added support from a couple rigid flat stock ribs across the width).  As a result, the total size of the box won't increase, but the interior room will.  This will also be more durable than having the wood standoffs.  (And all 3 sides that will be visible behind the face plate will still be covered in fabric to hide the structure yet allow airflow...)

And, the total cost of the cases will be less than a pre-bought case!

Mark

yes - keep the power cables separated from the speaker and input cables.  good idea to use something w/smaller dimension inside the amp, to maximize interior room.

doug s.

[mkcarnut]

Super - that's why I thought you made the suggestion.  I just go back from buying parts for my custom case.  I'll be finalizing/double-checking exact dimensions, then starting to cut metal tomorrow.  As soon as it starts to take shape, I'll post some early pix.  I did find one special touch...I was looking for metal in Home Depot, and they have some nice satin finish aluminum to be used as a kick panel on a door.  The finish was so nice, so I bought some to use as the "back" (in my case, bottom) panel and under the amp.  So, any exposed metal (including that through the "window") will have a nice satin finish aluminum look.  It's not thick enough to be used on its own, so I will bond it to the main structural layer.

Mark

[jackman]

Yep.  Well, here's a review, with product info.
http://positive-feedback.com/Issue43/audiomagic_pulse_zx.htm

Looks cool but the website is not working right.

[bhakti]

Looks cool but the website is not working right.

They don't have a website.  Either out of business or off the world wide web.

[*Scotty*]

http://www.highend-electronics.com/12.html

[mkcarnut]

Here's the 1st image of my 1st chassis.  Parts for the 2nd are cut and de-burred...I just need to drill holes and bolts it all together.  Recall these will be wall-mounted.  The left side in this photo will be "up", and the connectors will be to the right side of this photo.  The top in this photo (which will face the room) will be poplar, with a circular "window" cut over the NC400 module with dark smoked glass covering the window - so you can "see the core"!  I hope to get the 2nd chassis assembled tomorrow and at least the 1st poplar top cut and the edges routed into a nice rounded/tapered edge.

The cutouts show approximately where the NC400 and power supply will go, and the pipe cleaners show approximate wire locations.  Also, the open sides and part that will face up will remain open, but there will be "grill cover" fabric over the exposed aluminum to keep out dust and critters.  Finally, I figured out a way to make the poplar easily removable, so I will have easy access to show off the parts to friends, change fuses, etc.



More later as I make progress...the next photo will be of the poplar tops in place.  My NC400 and PS won't ship until mid-September, but various connectors will be arriving this week.  I'll install those as they arrive so when the modules arrive, I am ready to hook them up & jam!

Thanks to all for your input on my project!

Mark (PS to rclark...yes...it will be built balanced!  Ready and waiting for that XSP-1!!!)

[secretriches]

I've been listening to my NCore now for about 2 months and thought I'd share my chassis design. Top is 1/4" aluminum with hole cut and covered with 1/16" solid bronze plate. Wood is 3/4" rosewood. Bottom is 1/4" aluminum with plenty of ventilation holes.

I really like the speed and dynamics of this amp but have been reluctant to provide a detailed review yet. The amp is burned in and I'm not quite pleased with the mid range (flat) or the amount of air I'd like in the treble. I kind of concur with some others that the NCore has plenty of power and initially sounds exciting but there's something missing. Rather than dwell upon that, I'll be receiving a new Arion amp and will be able to compare the two in about a month. At that time, I'll be better able to share my experience.

My system consists of a MacMini and Oyen FW drive for music server, Zodiac Gold DAC with Voltikus power supply, and a pair of absolutely incredible LaHave Audio Mela monitor speakers. These monitors are up there with TAD monitors and are incredibly revealing. The Zodiac is also very transparent and I'll ultimately be able to tune my final system with speaker and XLR balanced cables. Right now cables are Grover Huffman.

The wiring inside the NCore I built is all 7n Neotech solid copper with teflon. The connectors on the back are one great big huge Furutech IEC, a pair of Cardas patented binding posts, and a beautiful pair of Furutech high end XLR female chassis connectors. From my experience building numerous amps using wood and 1/4" aluminum, it would be hard to build a better chassis sonically. Switch on the front is 20A from the UK.

I'll be back in about a month with some initial observations between the NCore and Arion.

[Atlplasma]

I've been listening to my NCore now for about 2 months and thought I'd share my chassis design. Top is 1/4" aluminum with hole cut and covered with 1/16" solid bronze plate. Wood is 3/4" rosewood. Bottom is 1/4" aluminum with plenty of ventilation holes.

I really like the speed and dynamics of this amp but have been reluctant to provide a detailed review yet. The amp is burned in and I'm not quite pleased with the mid range (flat) or the amount of air I'd like in the treble. I kind of concur with some others that the NCore has plenty of power and initially sounds exciting but there's something missing. Rather than dwell upon that, I'll be receiving a new Arion amp and will be able to compare the two in about a month. At that time, I'll be better able to share my experience.

My system consists of a MacMini and Oyen FW drive for music server, Zodiac Gold DAC with Voltikus power supply, and a pair of absolutely incredible LaHave Audio Mela monitor speakers. These monitors are up there with TAD monitors and are incredibly revealing. The Zodiac is also very transparent and I'll ultimately be able to tune my final system with speaker and XLR balanced cables. Right now cables are Grover Huffman.

The wiring inside the NCore I built is all 7n Neotech solid copper with teflon. The connectors on the back are one great big huge Furutech IEC, a pair of Cardas patented binding posts, and a beautiful pair of Furutech high end XLR female chassis connectors. From my experience building numerous amps using wood and 1/4" aluminum, it would be hard to build a better chassis sonically. Switch on the front is 20A from the UK.

I'll be back in about a month with some initial observations between the NCore and Arion.

Just curious about the efficiency of your LaHave speakers. Several reviewers have commented that the Ncores are not particularly impressive when driving efficient speakers.