[Chris Adams]

santacore, Thanks! Oh man, if I had them but not the rest of the parts to make 'em work, I'd be pulling my hair out.   Gotta say, I think it will be worth the wait though.

Anand, thanks. Thought I'd give it a go without the power switch and see if it's satisfactory. I can always ad a power switch if I decide I'd like one.

bhakti, I'm not concerned about venting. The entire case is aluminum and acts like a giant heat sink. When I had Jason's tour pair they only got warm and were on all the time I had them. Granted there was no front, so it was open, but I don't think it will be an issue.

Stiedl, Thanks. 

[bhakti]

I think that should work!  Nice.  If you use it, please let us know -- I'll rewire mine.  Only question I have is whether it's okay to take the LED (-) directly to chassis ground rather than back to the PS ground. 

I will give it a try, but it may be several weeks as I have not yet purchased a chassis or chassis.  Good question on the LED (-).  My guess is it would be best to use the PS ground.  I think that would assure the 21vdc on the auxiliary power.

[PeteG]

Put them together and doing some listening now. I have light pipes in the front panel for now but will find the right LED/resistor combo using the unregulated output voltage (21v +/-) later, has anyone done this already?

[mgalusha]

Put them together and doing some listening now. I have light pipes in the front panel for now but will find the right LED/resistor combo using the unregulated output voltage (21v +/-) later, has anyone done this already?

Nice Pete!

A 24K resistor will allow just under 1mA for the LED with a 21V supply. For me that is about the right brightness level for the evil blue LED's. I say this after tinkering with a blue LED and a 21V supply for a guys amps less than a half hour ago.

[PeteG]

Nice Pete!

A 24K resistor will allow just under 1mA for the LED with a 21V supply. For me that is about the right brightness level for the evil blue LED's. I say this after tinkering with a blue LED and a 21V supply for a guys amps less than a half hour ago.

Thanks Mike, will get some.

[Chris Adams]

Nice build, Pete.  I almost used one of those Context cases for mine. Have my Pass B1 in one and like it very much.

[mgalusha]

Thanks Mike, will get some.

I'll mail you a couple on Tuesday, shoot me your address. Or, I am going to Jerry's tomorrow, I could drop you a couple off. Email me.

Mike

[PeteG]

I'll mail you a couple on Tuesday, shoot me your address. Or, I am going to Jerry's tomorrow, I could drop you a couple off. Email me.

Mike

Mike, thanks for the offer but as soon as I seen your post I sent a order to Digi-Key, plus now I’m not in any hurry to take the amps out  .

[mjock3]

Nice looking amps Pete. How are they sounding?

[PeteG]

Nice looking amps Pete. How are they sounding?

Thanks, so far so good. But I'll live with them a little while and will post something later on in the “Listening Impressions” thread.

[ajst2duk]

Pretty standard simple build here - sounds good though



Dont squirm at the long signal cable length, I'm keeping it this way until I'm satisfied with the look & sound.
AJ

[Emile]

I got my first pair of ncore's replacing a pair of spectron amps in monoblock mode, I'd say its a step up in amplifier technology although they lack the ultimate power the spectrons provide. This translates into a smaller soundstage, slightly less dynamic, less ultimate punch/slam, compression when driven loud (my speakers are around a 87/88 dB sensitivity), but hey its 200 vs 2000 watts into 8 ohms. They do however sound more neutral, the spectrons sound slightly sweeter, they have more grip/control, it's START STOP in stead of staaarrrt, stoooooppppppp. Detail/texture is better, they are cleaner, imaging is rocksolid (all on less then ultimate volumelevels though), distortion is lower, sounds emerge from total blackness, they simply sound more live/real. They're a steal at their pricepoint and an advance in class D ampliefier technology.

*I have to add that they do have an advantage over the spectrons as I'm running them "hotrodded", they dont have horrible metal enclosures, no speaker bindingposts/spades/additional internal speakerwiring/solder joints, no xlr connectors/input posts/additional wiring/solderjoints, pretty direct connection to powercords etc which may be partially responsible for the better sound.





 

[Ric Schultz]

Not fair, not fair..he he.  You are running bridged Spectrons versus unbridged NC-400.  Please order another set of modules and power supplies right now and try them bridged.  You would be the first person on the planet to do so.....please tell us what you hear.  I bet it will blow your mind.  You know how much better the Spectrons are bridged.......it will be the same.  Then you can sell your Spectrons and get even better input and output wires, etc. and your system will go through the roof!

[Emile]

I would need bridged nc1200's to even come close to spectron's powerlevels 

Anyway I'm gonna take this opportunity (availablity of ultra high quality amp modules for decent $$) to convert my system from passive to active. Since my first crossover point is @300Hz ill have double headroom from that alone, and I do have around 30% crossover losses in the coils in front of my woofers.

If still short then (dont think so) I may consider bridging but that may also diminish that awesome low output impedance/damping factor so I'm not that convinced bridging is the way to go.. yet.. 

[worldcat]

Nice Pete!

A 24K resistor will allow just under 1mA for the LED with a 21V supply. For me that is about the right brightness level for the evil blue LED's. I say this after tinkering with a blue LED and a 21V supply for a guys amps less than a half hour ago.

Where can we get the blue led lights from?

[poseidonsvoice]

Where can we get the blue led lights from?

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bulgin/MP0045-1E2BL012/?qs=TJSU9qitBVTj3x5tdT0Ncw%3d%3d

Anand.

[serengetiplains]

I bet it will blow your mind.  You know how much better the Spectrons are bridged.......it will be the same.

That's essentially my opinion also, Ric.  Bridged should reduce noise (read: non-signal additives, artifacts, perturbations ...) in its push-pull operation.

[cab]

That's essentially my opinion also, Ric.  Bridged should reduce noise (read: non-signal additives, artifacts, perturbations ...) in its push-pull operation.

The noise is already so slight that I can't help but wonder how any real improvement will be audible.

[Don_S]

My experience in general (not specific to NCores) is that there is always another level of "quiet".

The noise is already so slight that I can't help but wonder how any real improvement will be audible.

[Don_S]

AJ,

Nicely done.  Very clean looking. 

Pretty standard simple build here - sounds good though



Dont squirm at the long signal cable length, I'm keeping it this way until I'm satisfied with the look & sound.
AJ