[Steidl Guitars]

Thanks everyone.

Because of the close proximity of the wire harnesses, do you notice any hum or noise?

None--they are dead quiet, at least on my ~86-87 db speakers, ear against tweeter.  Although the last photo is deceptive because of the angle, none of the wiring runs across any of the modules, with the exception of the output wires. 

This thing is really very good. 

[steve k]

Beautiful work Bob! You've inspired me to build two cases now instead of four since I'll be bi-amping.

Can you let us in on the source for your case and that sexy power switch??

steve k

[earflappin]

Bob, nice work buddy.  Would you mind posting your bill of materials on this build sans the NCOREs themselves?  I think I am going to build this myself.  I love the flexibility of being able to have one or two SMPS600's and one or two NC400's.  You can biwire or biamp and have the option of one or two SMPS.  Very nice.  Thanks.  Did you consider the Cardas patented binding posts?

[Don_S]

Bob,

Really first class work.  Congratulations. 

Pictures can be decieving.  What are the approximate chassis dimensions?

[teetee]

Nice one chasis solution, that is what I am going to do too. Where did you get this case from? Are the holes pre open? Did anyone try to drive Ncore from Volume controlled CD/SACD Player like Oppo 95?

[Steidl Guitars]

Here's what I bought to assemble the thing, excluding some wire, screws, crimp terminals, solder, and rubber feet.  I included the Neutrik XLR-RCA adapters because I needed those; they're quite nice.  Nothing special about the parts I selected, just where I fell out.  I decided that if the amps were half as good as reported, I'd go for pretty nice set of speaker connectors, and spare myself that inevitable "what if?" You'll need a "manly" soldering iron to use these big lumps of copper; my 35 watt job wouldn't get them hot enough, so I bought a 140 watt gun from Home Depot for $35 that worked just fine. 

From Parts Connexion (20% off connectors during May; full prices listed):

 PC #: CARDAS-53457
 Desc: CARDAS CCBP-S unplated copper - $56/stereo set

 PC #: NEUTRIK-53041
 Desc: NC3FP-B1 - 3 PIN Female chassis mount jacks, gold-plated contacts - $6.50/each

 PC #:  DHLABS-57227
 Desc: T-14 14awg, SILVER SONIC, Speaker Cable - $8/foot

From Mouser:

 Mouser #: 693-DC11.0001.003
 Mfr. #: DC11.0001.003
 Desc.: Schurter Power Entry Modules Screw-on 1-pole 10A Non-illuminated - $8.31/each

 Mouser #: 568-NA2MPMF
 Mfr. #: NA2MPMF
 Desc.: Neutrik XLR Connectors 3-P MALE XLR/RCA JACK PREWIRED - $11.39/each

 Mouser #: 117-MP0045/1E2BL012
 Mfr. #: MP0045/1E2BL012
 Desc.: Bulgin Pushbutton Switches DPCO FLUSH BUTTON - $14.95/each

From Eltim Audio (http://www.eltim.eu):

 Modu GALAXY Maggiorato case, with 10 mm front panel - $47.02 + $15 shipping. 
 Width = 230 mm, Depth = 280 mm, Height = 82 mm
 Nothing pre-drilled here, but you can buy spare rear panels for $8!

A few comments about the lighted switch on the faceplate, which functions as a mute/standby switch, not to power the mains -- that is switched from the IEC on the back panel.  I wanted a lighted indicator on the front panel and considered an LED, but then decided that I might as well incorporate a switch that lifts nAMPON and mutes the amp. 

The Bulgin "vandal" switch listed above is not exactly the one I used, but it looks the same.  I found a copy on eBay that takes 24v; the one I listed above takes 12 v.  The accessory power provided from the SMPS is about 21 v, so if you go with the 12v version, you'll need to add a resistor to drop the voltage from 21 to 12 (I think a 1K ohm resistor would be about the right value, but please double check). 

Note that when the mains are powered, the LED in the switch will be on, whether or not the switch is open or closed.

Hope that's of some use.
Bob

[steve k]

Thank you Bob! Those are nice cases.

steve

[Don_S]

Translation:

9.06"W x 11.02"D x 3.23"H   Very nice compact case.

"Modu GALAXY Maggiorato case, with 10 mm front panel - $47.02 + $15 shipping. 
 Width = 230 mm, Depth = 280 mm, Height = 82 mm
 Nothing pre-drilled here, but you can buy spare rear panels for $8!"

[PeteG]

I agree with all you did a great job Bob, nice and compact chassis.

[siliconray]

Looks great! will there be thermal problem with 4 module inside when working in high power?

[bhakti]

Sweet!!

I'm considering following your lead.  If you did this again, what would you do differently?

Kudos,

b

[Steidl Guitars]

PeteG:  Thanks.

Siliconray:  There is a good discussion of "thermal considerations" in the amp datasheet that you can get at the Hypex website, starting on page 8.  In summary:  "any normal metal enclosure will provide enough additional cooling for even very heavy use." 

bhakti:  What would I do differently?  Well, the switch on the front panel is only 16 mm, so it's small; if I end up using it frequently, I'll look for a bigger version. 

[bhakti]

Steidl Guitars: thanks for the reply!

Question for you (or anyone) - is there a simple way to turn off the illuminated ring in the switch to show the amp is in the mute state?

I would like to leave the mains power on all the time and just switch the mute on and off while I power preamp and sources on and off.  It would be nice to have a visual indicator of mute being on or off.

Thanks!

[Steidl Guitars]

bhakti, no matter what I offer, you should check with someone who knows what they're talking about!

The LED in the switch has a pair (+/- set) of connectors, so if you opened that connection to power at the same time you opened the nAMPON connection to chassis, I think you'd get what you're after.  A double-pole switch (which is what I used) should do it. 

I like it.  If it works, perhaps I'll rewire the switch.   

Can anyone confirm?

[bhakti]

bhakti, no matter what I offer, you should check with someone who knows what they're talking about!

The LED in the switch has a pair (+/- set) of connectors, so if you opened that connection to power at the same time you opened the nAMPON connection to chassis, I think you'd get what you're after.  A double-pole switch (which is what I used) should do it. 

I like it.  If it works, perhaps I'll rewire the switch.   

Can anyone confirm?

Maybe something like this:

[Chris Adams]

I am so psyched! My NC400s showed up on Thurs. and I have them up an running today. Ice cold, fresh solder and no break in, they sound fantastic. The same sound I remember from Jason's tour pair.

I got the chassis from ebay. They're the same ones Siliconray is selling. They came with Nice rubber feet, the IEC cutout and IECs with fuse holders. I had already purchased two Furutech IEC Inlets so had to fill the extra space. Used some dampening material I had on hand. Also used Furutech FP-682f for the XLR input, Cardas solid copper binding posts, DH Labs T-14 for speaker hookup and a Radio Shack SPST switch for the nAMPON. If anyone is interested, the interconnects are Mogami 2534 mic cable with Neutrik gold pin connectors. They are very neutral. Got them from UpScale Music in Newington CT, $70 shipped for a 6' pair. Here are some pics.

[santacore]

Nice build Chris!! Mine also came on Thursday, but I don't have cases yet, so they sit. I can't wait to get them up and running.

[poseidonsvoice]

Nice work. I take it you decided to forgo on the power switch but implement nAMPON. Makes it nice and simple. Enjoy the fruits of your labor.

Anand.

[bhakti]

Nice job!!

Mine also came on Thursday and are also awaiting enclosure!

Chris, is there any venting in that case and if not, does it concern you?  I'm considering the same case and would like some venting

[Steidl Guitars]

Maybe something like this:

I think that should work!  Nice.  If you use it, please let us know -- I'll rewire mine.  Only question I have is whether it's okay to take the LED (-) directly to chassis ground rather than back to the PS ground. 

Chris, nice work!