Here's what I bought to assemble the thing, excluding some wire, screws, crimp terminals, solder, and rubber feet. I included the Neutrik XLR-RCA adapters because I needed those; they're quite nice. Nothing special about the parts I selected, just where I fell out. I decided that if the amps were half as good as reported, I'd go for pretty nice set of speaker connectors, and spare myself that inevitable "what if?" You'll need a "manly" soldering iron to use these big lumps of copper; my 35 watt job wouldn't get them hot enough, so I bought a 140 watt gun from Home Depot for $35 that worked just fine. From Parts Connexion
(20% off connectors during May; full prices listed):
PC #: CARDAS-53457
Desc: CARDAS CCBP-S unplated copper - $56/stereo set
PC #: NEUTRIK-53041
Desc: NC3FP-B1 - 3 PIN Female chassis mount jacks, gold-plated contacts - $6.50/each
PC #: DHLABS-57227
Desc: T-14 14awg, SILVER SONIC, Speaker Cable - $8/footFrom Mouser:
Mouser #: 693-DC11.0001.003
Mfr. #: DC11.0001.003
Desc.: Schurter Power Entry Modules Screw-on 1-pole 10A Non-illuminated - $8.31/each
Mouser #: 568-NA2MPMF
Mfr. #: NA2MPMF
Desc.: Neutrik XLR Connectors 3-P MALE XLR/RCA JACK PREWIRED - $11.39/each
Mouser #: 117-MP0045/1E2BL012
Mfr. #: MP0045/1E2BL012
Desc.: Bulgin Pushbutton Switches DPCO FLUSH BUTTON - $14.95/eachFrom Eltim Audio
Modu GALAXY Maggiorato case, with 10 mm front panel - $47.02 + $15 shipping.
Width = 230 mm, Depth = 280 mm, Height = 82 mm
Nothing pre-drilled here, but you can buy spare rear panels for $8!
A few comments about the lighted switch on the faceplate, which functions as a mute/standby switch, not to power the mains -- that is switched from the IEC on the back panel. I wanted a lighted indicator on the front panel and considered an LED, but then decided that I might as well incorporate a switch that lifts nAMPON and mutes the amp.
The Bulgin "vandal" switch listed above is not exactly the one I used, but it looks the same. I found a copy on eBay that takes 24v; the one I listed above takes 12 v. The accessory power provided from the SMPS is about 21 v, so if you go with the 12v version, you'll need to add a resistor to drop the voltage from 21 to 12 (I think a 1K ohm resistor would be about the right value, but please double check).
Note that when the mains are powered, the LED in the switch will be on, whether or not the switch is open or closed.
Hope that's of some use.