Hypex NCore question and answers

zybar · « **Reply #500 on:** 11 Dec 2012, 06:07 pm »

Quote from: jtwrace on 11 Dec 2012, 06:04 pm

Have those NCores taken over the amp spot from the MA-1's yet?

I sold the MA-1's and have been using the NCores exclusively.

While the NCores are great, I still miss the MA-1's. Each amp has its own strengths and weaknesses.

George

jtwrace · « **Reply #501 on:** 11 Dec 2012, 06:46 pm »

Quote from: zybar on 11 Dec 2012, 06:07 pm

I sold the MA-1's and have been using the NCores exclusively.

While the NCores are great, I still miss the MA-1's. Each amp has its own strengths and weaknesses.

George

ajst2duk · « **Reply #502 on:** 12 Dec 2012, 09:42 am »

Quote from: barrows on 8 Dec 2012, 11:22 pm

Yes, I did listen. And was able to sell my Ayre K5-XEmp (a very good unit and highly recommended for anyone who needs a pre amp). If one uses a single source with a good method of controlling volume and a good output stage, adding a preamp will only make the system less accurate. As long as folks accept and understand that under the above circumstances adding a preamp is adding distortion, then I am fine if they prefer the resulting sound.
But ultimately, if accurate music reproduction is the goal, having the minimum (to get the job done, notably controlling volume as transparently as possible and driving the interconnects and input stage of the amplifier optimally) amount of parts in the signal is desirable.

One of my better listening experiences was to a Yello LP via PS Audio GCPH balanced direct into Ncore

santacore · « **Reply #503 on:** 26 Dec 2012, 07:16 pm »

Is anyone connecting the "stand by" wire of the power supply to the chassis ground, like the nAMPON wire? Is there a benefit or disadvantage to having both connected to chassis?

Julf · « **Reply #504 on:** 27 Dec 2012, 10:22 am »

Quote from: santacore on 26 Dec 2012, 07:16 pm

Is anyone connecting the "stand by" wire of the power supply to the chassis ground, like the nAMPON wire? Is there a benefit or disadvantage to having both connected to chassis?

No benefit in connecting the SMPS Standby to ground.

forgetu · « **Reply #505 on:** 1 Jan 2013, 07:53 am »

Having problem with the power switch.

Hi. I built monoblock NC400. On each case, I put a on/off switch. The main power is 220V AC. I didn't connect the ground of inlet to the chassis(as manual recommends).

The problem is , when the power cord is properly connected to the inlet, It works fine. But, when I plugged the power cord changing the direction, so the hot line and cold line is swithced, the power switch doesn't work properly. The symptom is like this. When I switch it off by pushing the butten, after a second or less, the amp keeps turning on and off about 5~6 times a second. And the turning on and off gets slow and finally the amp is turned off in a few seconds.

It seems that it keeps turning on and off until the capacitors are are discharged. when the hot line and cold line is connected right, the amp is turned off instantly not turing itself on again. Only when I change the direction of the plug on the powerstrip, changing the hot and cold of the inlet brings such symptom. It matters because I have to check up the hot and cold everytime I move the amps and plug the cables again. At first, I was scared when they(mono blocks) kept turning on and off very fast, thinking that it might damage the relays of the SMPS module. So, I instantly turned of the main switch of the powerstrip immediately. Later,, I neglected doing that,, and my SMPS doesn't work.

I had to send one of the SMPS for RMA. I sent it about a month ago, and it's still under 'consept'. I expected to get it back within 18 days like they say on the Hypex homepage. I sent an Email asking how to pay for RMA cost and when to get it back. No reply yet.

Can anyone help me with adjusting this problem please? I attach some of the pics of my monos..

P.S I inserted resister to adjust the voltage of Aux power to supply power for switch LED.
the link of swith I used for Ncore:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Waterproof-Light-Push-Button-Switch-L22-Dia-22mm-Stainless-steel/496350721.html

[/img][/img]

forgetu · « **Reply #506 on:** 1 Jan 2013, 07:58 am »

Sorry.. the pictures are not inserted well.. I put some more pictures here again..

Julf · « **Reply #507 on:** 2 Jan 2013, 12:51 pm »

Can't really make out the wiring from the pics - can you explain exactly how you wired up the switch?

mikeeastman · « **Reply #508 on:** 2 Jan 2013, 03:02 pm »

I had the same problem with one of my mono Ncores and it was the load and neutral wires were wired backwards at the IEC, when I rewire the it the problem was fixed.

Julf · « **Reply #509 on:** 2 Jan 2013, 03:06 pm »

Quote from: mikeeastman on 2 Jan 2013, 03:02 pm

I had the same problem with one of my mono Ncores and it was the load and neutral wires were wired backwards at the IEC, when I rewire the it the problem was fixed.

But for that to make a difference, you also have to have one of the mains wires connected to something else than just the SMPS600 mains inputs. Chassis? Ground? And if so, why?

mikeeastman · « **Reply #510 on:** 2 Jan 2013, 03:24 pm »

That was not the case in my situation, and I was told by the tech guy at Hypex that just having the wires backward would cause that problem. It didn't make sense to me either, but when I switched the wires the problem went away.

Julf · « **Reply #511 on:** 2 Jan 2013, 03:34 pm »

indeed!

forgetu · « **Reply #512 on:** 2 Jan 2013, 05:16 pm »

Thanks guys for leaving me the comments.
I emailed to hypex and got the message saying "This is a known problem and it occurs only in some instances. The solution would be to mount a double pole switch."

Just rewiring the load and neutral of the inlet couldn't be the solution for me. Because, When I move the monos, or lend them to my friend, If I don't check the polarity of the powerstrip, the same problem would occur again. Moreover, if my friend doesn't have the tester, he can't tell which is the load and the neutral. Rewiring the load and neutral is as good as changing the direction of the powercod, isn't it?

Sorry for my poor pics ^^
Brown line is wired to the load(or hot?), Blue line is wired to the neutral(cold?). I didn't connected the ground of the mains to the chassis(I actually wired but taped the end of the wire because the manual recommends not to wire the ground to the chassis). later on, let me put up more detailed, clear pics. For now there seems to be no solution except these -1. using double pole switch, 2. checking out the direction of the power cord everytime I reconnect. 3. Not using the switch ^^

Julf · « **Reply #513 on:** 2 Jan 2013, 05:24 pm »

Quote from: forgetu on 2 Jan 2013, 05:16 pm

For now there seems to be no solution except these -1. using double pole switch, 2. checking out the direction of the power cord everytime I reconnect. 3. Not using the switch

One solution would be to have a double pole relay driven by your current switch.

this_is_vv · « **Reply #514 on:** 6 Jan 2013, 10:29 pm »

In 2 weeks i will have money to order for nc400...keeping the finger crossed...took a while to get this fund up and running but able to get it now....if i am right roughly per channel it's gonna cost around 1500-1600 for a stereo.....

V

jtwrace · « **Reply #515 on:** 6 Jan 2013, 11:22 pm »

Quote from: this_is_vv on 6 Jan 2013, 10:29 pm

if i am right roughly per channel it's gonna cost around 1500-1600 for a stereo.....

V

How's that?

this_is_vv · « **Reply #516 on:** 6 Jan 2013, 11:27 pm »

Quote from: jtwrace on 6 Jan 2013, 11:22 pm

How's that?

just asking...after doing rough calculations....including case + binders etc....amp and smps and euro conversion rate lol

jonbee · « **Reply #517 on:** 6 Jan 2013, 11:30 pm »

Quote from: this_is_vv on 6 Jan 2013, 10:29 pm

if i am right roughly per channel it's gonna cost around 1500-1600 for a stereo.....
V

My single chassis dual mono (2 modules and 2 PS) cost about $1800 total to build. I used a prebuilt chassis, so assembly took 5 hours. A second chassis and IEC socket should add a couple hun. max, I would think. Of course you COULD spend a lot more, but I don't think it gets you proportionately better sound. Most designs posted here are not gold plated, yet sound terrific.

jtwrace · « **Reply #518 on:** 6 Jan 2013, 11:32 pm »

Quote from: this_is_vv on 6 Jan 2013, 11:27 pm

just asking...after doing rough calculations....including case + binders etc....amp and smps and euro conversion rate lol

You should be able to build them for about $2k. This is if you don't go nutty with a chassis.

this_is_vv · « **Reply #519 on:** 6 Jan 2013, 11:38 pm »

Quote from: jtwrace on 6 Jan 2013, 11:32 pm

You should be able to build them for about $2k. This is if you don't go nutty with a chassis.

Ok, then adding another week for saving to reach 2k....if some one selling there amps if you guys upgraded to nc1200 i guess then i wont mind buying...