Power Inlet for AKSA

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jonwb

Re: Dimmer switch
« Reply #20 on: 13 Mar 2003, 02:46 am »
Quote from: blizzard
Hi Jonwb,
    I realize that my comments are not very constructive.  I'm really just trying to express areas of concern.  Don't rush into this project without thoroughly thinking it through, or you could destroy your speakers, amp, or both.


Steve,

Don't worry I wouldn't actually do such a crazy thing.  I am absolutely positive there are several good technical reasons (some of which you mentioned) why this wouldn't be a great idea.  I agree with your comments by the way, I wouldn't want the start up sequence for these fine hand crafted amps to be like trying to catch lightening in a bottle  :D

OK then, how about a nice big single phase circuit breaker?  Like this one:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/productdetail.jsp?xi=xi&ItemId=1611595385

30 amps seems like it'd be enough.  Although perhaps the in-rush exceeds this and it would "blow" as soon as you flipped in on.  Of course you could get bigger ones, but they start to get pricier then.  But hey, they do have that classy post-modern industrial look don't they?

jonwb

Lost81

Why not 20A IEC?
« Reply #21 on: 13 Mar 2003, 08:24 pm »
Their cable-mounted IEC ends don't cost as much as their lesser 15A counterparts.  Their chassis-mounted IEC ends cost more, but are of a much higher quality than the 15A variants.

I have them in my hands right now, and there is so much more contact real estate. contact pressure is so much higher than the regular 10A/15A IEC. Furthermore, instead of the ferromagnetic steel commonly used in chassis-mounted IEC, the 20A chassis-mounted IECs use brass.

Here's what's quoted from Michael Percy's catalog:

IEC POWER PLUGS:

These are the type of connectors used on virtually all audio components that have detachable power cords. I have both the commonly used 10-15 amp style and the much better 20 amp connectors. Unfortunately almost no one uses the 20 amp type which has much larger, higher pressure, lower resistance contacts, but is not interchangeable with the 10 amp types. If you are converting equipment to utilize a detachable power cord, or are willing to replace the male connector on equipment that uses a 10 amp IEC connector, then by all means use the 20 amp style. The 20 amp male requires a 33mm x 25mm hole with 42mm hole centers for the mounting screws. This means enlarging the main opening significantly over the 10 amp type but the mounting screw holes need only be widened 1mm each beyond the normal spacing for the 10A type IEC so they can be reconfigured with little difficulty.

*10A Swiss made female for end of power cord, straight? $8.95
*10A male panel mount connector? $2.00 each
*H320C, Hubbell 20A female for end of power cord, straight, clam shell case? $9.95 H320B,
*Hubbell 20A male chassis mount? $7.50

I bought some Belden 83803 from Take Five Audio and will be using it for the power cord. The cords are exceptionally stiff and heavy. The 83802 is a lot more manageable. I might strip it and use its individual conductors for power hookup within the chassis itself.

One interesting thing, the Belden 19364 (14AWG x 3) is actually thicker than the 83802 (12AWG x 2)  or the 83803 (12AWG x 3). It is, however, a lot more flexible though.

Cheers,
benny
---
And you grieve that the momentary beauty has faded so soon never to return, that it flashed upon you so treacherously, so vainly, grieve because you had not even time to love her . . .. (White Nights, Feodor Dostovesky)

Carlman

Power Inlet for AKSA
« Reply #22 on: 13 Mar 2003, 10:34 pm »
Lost,
I use a similar recipe for power cords but, I stuck with the 10A stuff.  I'm using Schurter IEC's and Belden 83802 which is also pretty stiff.  I bought it as a kit from 'Ernie' on Audiogon.  

I wouldn't strip too much cable since a big benefit from this cable is the nice shielding.  (unless the 83803 doesn't have that metal mesh stuff)

I was going to use 83803 in my future house for dedicated outlets... but, I don't think the electrician will let me supply it.  I like the 83802 for my equipment so, I figured, why not use something very similar in the walls?

Good idea on the 20A, I thought about it as well but, I decided to just direcly wire my pre-amp and DAC.  Plus, I wanted to be able to get rid of them if I didn't care for them.  However, there's no chance of that.

-Carl