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This thread is about keep FullRange drivers crossoverless to listen its Harmonic Integrity, that is the best feature a FR can delivery to the music lover.If you are a CrossOver lover you may be frustated here.Some Full Ranges drivers had strong mid-treble response, to keep it crossoverless, is need some passive treatment to smother the high frequencies.Of course passive, is a non electronic part, as inductor, capacitor, DSP etc.1) First: around all the box corners, even the small ones, with a triangular or L shape profile of wood or MDF. Alternatively can be used that soft massa/dough of caulk, avoid plastic or metal parts.2) Second: Paint matte black all walls inside the box, even the Baffle, it is not difficult with a spray can.3) Stuffing all the fullrange magnet with 30 to 50mm black foam or dark blue or brown. Pressed wool 20-30mm also is good. You will need some glue. Please note, that foam begins to crumble/mill after some 10 years, so use a new quality sample of medium density. Avoid 10mm carpet or non shaggy rug.4) Stuffing inside the box as recommended by the driver manufacturer or even more. If the box is BassReflex, stuffing the duct also, with dark foam, not the inside of the duct/flute of course, but the outside of the duct.5) Foam will raise the bass response too, that is great, as I am a bass fan.Please Note: Foam and wool blanket use space in the internal volume of the box, the white Polyester blanket will not occupy space in the box litrage.If you had a suggestion or a new trick, please fill free to post here to us.Cheers
After what I read, it appears that you are treating the enclosure and not the driver. If a raw driver has problems then the driver needs treatment too.
Yes, Iam treat the enclousure(I will no listen the raw driver), it can be BassReflex or Sealed, obviously for horns or OB this treatment not work.Iam unknow any raw driver treatment, unless the magnet stuffing(item 3). Do you would inform which you are referring??
Wouldn't a notch filter be less of a compromise than a handful of passive tweaks that may each have their own side effects?
Ever hear of EnABL?Sometimes cone problems can be treated with a coat of damping material. Something brushed on or sprayed on. Dammar (varnish) was all the rage a few years ago.Baskets that are stamped or that ring can be damped too. Use modeling clay or self adhesive peel and stick type of damping sheets.Wedging, bracing the entire motor assembly (back of the magnet) to the inside rear wall of the enclosure has benefits too. Shown to improve transients.
Another trick, Use different thicknesses of wood for less enclousure resonance:BAFFLE = 30mmBACK = 10 to 15mmSIDES = 20mm
If you really want to attenuate enclosure wall resonances, double or triple the layers.Constrained layers are best, but you end up with a very heavy back breaking enclosure.
This is great to a strong, firm enclousure. If the walls are all same thickness the resonance are greater than, if the walls are variable thickness.Same walls thickness = more resonances.Variable wall thickness = less resonances.
Fail.Different wall thicknesses = Different wall resonance. No guarantee of "less" resonance only a change in frequency.Not something you can guess. The only way you'll know for sure is to use an accelerometer attached to the enclosure walls.
Hey this is a tweeter burn machine. What is Chladni ??
A great tip from ERIKB1971: Make random craters inside the enclosure as the image below.
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