[tg3]

These work great for me. X-statik/X-voce.



 

[hotjt133]

I finally decided to go with the N3 as a low risk start. The main reason not go with an OB is space restrictions. It won't pass WAF if the speaker are too far away from the wall, but OB needs lots of breathing space.

I hope someone can shed light on this one: Does the rounded edge on the front baffle plays a role in sound quality or imaging? I will use the vinyl laminates from part express which is only 2' wide, so it is no enough to wrap the two sides and the front in one piece. It will be less obvious if the join is on the straight edge than on a flat surface. So if I do not round edge on the front baffle, will it affect sound? Thanks.

[ctviggen]

Hi,
    While I was planning my OB7 build, the opinions of several experienced "ex OB fan" audiophiles likely to make me rethink. The main downsides of OB for HT applications tend to be mixed soundstage, voice imagings are artificially stretched and less sharp (more like a projector compared to plasma).

I'll put my projector system up against your plasma any day.

[Danny Richie]

I hope someone can shed light on this one: Does the rounded edge on the front baffle plays a role in sound quality or imaging? I will use the vinyl laminates from part express which is only 2' wide, so it is no enough to wrap the two sides and the front in one piece. It will be less obvious if the join is on the straight edge than on a flat surface. So if I do not round edge on the front baffle, will it affect sound? Thanks.

The rounded edges minimize surface reflections and improve imaging.

[hotjt133]

The rounded edges minimize surface reflections and improve imaging.

Thanks Danny. That's what I fear. However how much is the difference? Is it very minor or quite significant? I need to balance SQ and appearance.

Another question hoping N3 builders can answer, do you use 2' or less wide veneer? (To cover the front and two sides in one piece needs to be 3' wide) How do you cover the front and sides. Where do they join?

[Ron]

 I normally buy veneer in 4 ft x 8 ft sheets and cut the veneer to the width and length needed to cover the two(2) sides and front with one single sheet. There are a number of companies that sell veneer in 4 ft x 8 ft sheets. Tape Ease is one company I frequently use to buy my veneer. Also, you will need at least a 1/2 inch  radius on the front vertical edges of your cabinet.

[hotjt133]

I normally buy veneer in 4 ft x 8 ft sheets and cut the veneer to the width and length needed to cover the two(2) sides and front with one single sheet. There are a number of companies that sell veneer in 4 ft x 8 ft sheets. Tape Ease is one company I frequently use to buy my veneer. Also, you will need at least a 1/2 inch  radius on the front vertical edges of your cabinet.

Are you using paper backed veneer? I asked several suppliers and they said standard wood veneer may crack on 1/2 radius edges.

[S Clark]

However how much is the difference? Is it very minor or quite significant? I need to balance SQ and appearance.

Check out the measurements done on speaker designed with the GR-Research M130.  In this case, there are multiple diffraction effects up to 5 dB (quite a bit and definitely audible) that are the result of no rounding that are mostly eliminated by a 3/4" round over.
http://murphyblaster.com/content.php?f=cabinets.html

[Ron]

hotjt133

Are you using paper backed veneer? I asked several suppliers and they said standard wood veneer may crack on 1/2 radius edges.

 I normally use 10 mil paper backed veneer. Never had a problem with 1/2" or larger radius. You do need to be careful and take your time when veneering. I normally prefer using the heat activated type glues.

[hotjt133]

hotjt133

Are you using paper backed veneer? I asked several suppliers and they said standard wood veneer may crack on 1/2 radius edges.

 I normally use 10 mil paper backed veneer. Never had a problem with 1/2" or larger radius. You do need to be careful and take your time when veneering. I normally prefer using the heat activated type glues.

Thanks Ron. I guess that's the iron-on method? There are debate on iron-on vs contact cement and each have their issues.

[Ron]

 hotjt133

You are correct that both the iron-on method and contact cement have their issues. I have used both methods, but like the iron-on method best. Some people like to use wood glue for the iron-on method but I prefer to use "Heat Lock" brand heat activated glue. It's a matter of individual preference.