There are other good kits available. The other guys who make good kits are mentioned on my site. Also, there are better drivers and there are worse drivers. The guys mentioned on my site all implement a very good crossover and have a solid repuation for developing a very good crossover. The crossover will make/break any pair of drivers, but all of the guys mentioned on my page execute a crossover very well. Assuming proper crossover execution, the drivers and cabinet are the only 2 variables remianing - cabinets and drivers.
Cabinets should be big and strong. The drivers should be chosen with the acoustic goal in-mind. More expensive drivers are most often better-but not always. There are certainly differences between motors with/without shorting rings. There are differences between stiff/soft cones. There are differences in spider makeup too.
While I understand a everything about spider makeup, there are some basic rules of thumb when it comes to spider implementation. Spiders with more ridges generally offer less throw/X-max, but better control. Spiders with less ridges generally offer more throw/X-max, but less control. Unfortunately is not possible to "have your cake and eat it too."
Smaller drivers might offer better midrange, but only if they are more linear/pistonic in their design range. Driver with bigger magnets will offer more sensitivity and speed. These drivers will also offer less bass extension. The list goes on and on and on.
The eduction of such matters takes considerable time. I ain't the smartest guy, but I ain't a dummy neither. I suggest you read my comments here to get a feel for how much time it takes to learn about speakers before attempting a design.
http://www.ellisaudio.com/Whynotdiy.htmDave
