What to do w/ original LeAmps?

jonwb · « **on:** 27 Jan 2003, 09:11 pm »

Hope its OKAY to post this here. I figure they are Curt's amps right?

I'm looking at purchasing a pair of used nOrh LeAmps. They are oringinals w/ the DC blocking cap and the silver nOrh face plate.

I have read all sorts of posts about the crazy things people are doing with these amps. I'm looking for a decent amp(s) to power a set of GR-Research Alpha LS loudspeakers that I'm building. I'm wiring the speakers/cross-overs to be bi-ampable, so at some point I may need 4 channels.

Currently I have a rather "humble" setup. I am driving my current speakers with either my Hafler DH-220 or my DH-500. They are getting the signal from the pre-out of my Yamaha RX-V1000. The Haflers sound pretty good to me and the DH-500 sure does pump out the juice. But I do want to start upgrading my electronics to "catch up" to the potential of my speakers.

So, do I buy the LeAmp's and off load the Haflers? And if I do, what upgrade(s) should be performmed? What is the cost of the DC blocking cap removal and the LED tweak? Is this something I can do (heck I got a solder sucker

)? I understand there is a black face plate available, what does that cost? Or... there are upgrades I can do to the Haflers (http://www.musicalconcepts.com/mc_amp_mods.htm). Decisions, decisions...

I'm looking for some feedback here. I was going to just e-mail Curt, but he seems to check in here regularly, and I though others might want to chime-in.

Curt · « **Reply #1 on:** 28 Jan 2003, 10:27 am »

Hi jonwb,

Yes, it's our amp and posting here is fine.

Just for the record so you know, IRD will service, Mod and repair all of its audio component models, used or new, at the same low rates for the life of the product. We like to stand behind our gear.

For US customers we have a service center in North Carolina.

The DC Cap Mod is $15 per unit and black faceplates, blue LEDs and feet are available if desired. After you decide what you want to do you can e-mail me for details.

Once the DC mod is applied the original models will preform exactly the same as a new unit.

FYI : We re-test each serviced unit unit for free, and confirm all factory SPECS giving the component a 100% clean bill of health.

Have fun looking at your options and building your new system.

Xi-Trum · « **Reply #2 on:** 29 Jan 2003, 02:25 am »

I highly recommend getting the MB-100 modded. They're superb little amps for the money, that is if you value neutrality and accuracy. I recently got the ampzilla 2000 and have been comparing them to the MB-100. They have striking similarities in some areas. The ampzilla is 10X the price of the MB-100 but is definitely not 10X better.

Jay S · « **Reply #3 on:** 29 Jan 2003, 02:48 am »

The MB-100s/LeAmps sound great, esp for the price. What Guan and I have found is that a good non-current limiting power filter (we used a DeZorel) helps take them to another level as well and makes them very competitive with the big boys! Guan also has a highly modified Baron tube amp (which has been used as a reference amp by one of the Stereophile reviewers) and the "little" MB-100/Le Amp (cap removed by IRD, by the way) didn't seem to give up anything.

Guan · « **Reply #4 on:** 29 Jan 2003, 07:56 am »

Quote

The MB-100s/LeAmps sound great, esp for the price. What Guan and I have found is that a good non-current limiting power filter (we used a DeZorel) helps take them to another level as well and makes them very competitive with the big boys!

I'll second that. As I discussed with Curt in another thread, the difference between using a power filter (a DeZorel AR Senior with ground filtering in my case) and plugging the MB100 straight into a wall is VERY significant in terms of the natural flow and balance of the music. Not to mention higher resolution and lower noise floor.

Quote

Guan also has a highly modified Baron tube amp (which has been used as a reference amp by one of the Stereophile reviewers) and the "little" MB-100/Le Amp (cap removed by IRD, by the way) didn't seem to give up anything.

True. Before anyone thinks that the MB100 sounds like a tube amp...no it doesn't. It actually sounds quite neutral and has a wonderful clarity and balance (with the DeZorel!). The Baron amp has more harmonics and a touch more tonal colour but loses out in terms of bass definition and separation. The Baron also has a slightly hard upper mid/lower treble emphasis. But being a tube amp, I found that tube-rolling and adjusting the feedback levels does ameliorate this characteristic somewhat.

Guan

Curt · « **Reply #5 on:** 29 Jan 2003, 09:00 am »

Very nice MB-100 comments

Thanks guys.

Just one more added thought:

AC line filters may not be needed in all areas. It depends on your neighbors and a few other variables.

If there is bad noise in your area, in this case... Hong Kong you may hear a great difference But, if you live in an area with little noise away from factories etc. you may hear little if any difference at all.

A noisy area can also influence phase shifts between the voltage and current delivery or what engineers call the power factor, which I heard this type of filter can also help, But once again, it may or may not be needed or make any difference in your area.

It is always good to test basics first before adding more components. You can always check for improvements down the road.

Einstein once said, “Keep it as simple as possible but, no simpler than it has to be.” I find this to be very good advice.

Jay S · « **Reply #6 on:** 29 Jan 2003, 09:09 am »

Build good components and the praise will come.

Curt is right about Hong Kong. Since it is the norm to live in a high-rise condominium, I'm sure that noisy power is almost unavoidable and, hence, a good power filter is required in self-defense. Those of you who live in the open country are much more fortunate!