Mariusz makes a very good point. But there's also tons of music that simply can never manifest at such low levels including ambient information, overtones, harmonics, etc..
I think Bob said it best. How can any sane person offer anything of substance by test driving a car much less a Ferrari while only driving 20 mph?
This may be the single most absurd and asinine thing I've heard by a so-called professional in high-end audio. Imagine the damage this guy can cause reviewing what could be an otherwise superior or inferior product but he'd never know it.
BTW, supposedly this 50 - 55db listening levels included listening to recorded live performances and the reviewer is attached to what some consider the most respected internet publication.
-S