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My 10 year old DIY MTM mains are kits from Phil Bamberg (BESL Engineering).  These are his Series 4.5k units with Scan Speak 8545K drivers paired with Scan Speak 9500 tweets.  I want to pull the drivers so I can send them, along with the cross overs, to Rick Craig.  I do not recall what was used as the gasket material backing the flange of these drivers.  It now, 10 or so years after assembly, has properties similar to crazy glue.  I can't get these buggers to let go of the baffle!  I even have tried prying them off with the business end of a standard screw driver.  All I am doing is damaging the MDT baffle.  Anyone got a suggestion for how I might remove these drivers?  (It's OK to ridicule me as long as it results in separating these cones from this box.)

[TF1216]

In the past I have used a sharp pick and inserted it into the drivers' holes or around its flange.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947090000P?sbf=Brand&sbv=Craftsman&vName=Tools&cName=Tool+Sets&sName=Specialty+Tool+Sets&sLevel=3

The other thing I have done is to carefully knock the front corners of the speaker onto the ground until the driver popped out.  Not recommended with a beautiful enclosure.

[face]

It sometimes helps to remove the screws holding the drivers in and let the enclosure sit for a day or two.  If not, a pick or screw may allow you to pry the drivers out. 

Is there a binding post "cup"?  I've removed them and used either my hand or a dowel to push on the magnet from behind.

FIY: I've run into the same issue with Partsexpress's speaker gasket material.  Since then I've been using Mortite.

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OK then, I am on way to Sears this Friday.  Don't know why I didn't think of that.  The binding post cup is not a cup, but just four posts drilled through and inserted in the bottom rear of this tower in a separate compartment that houses the crossovers.  It's a good idea, but it won't work with this design.  These are skinned in cherry, finished with Watcos, and polished with floor wax.  I will pass on banging them around too much, plus they weigh 90 some lbs. each.  If you like, you can see them here, http://www.bambergaudio.com/s45k.shtml.  Thanks for the help.

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I'll try that URL again.  http://www.bambergaudio.com/s45k.shtml  If it only gets you to a lead or "re-direct" page, then go to the products tab and select Legacy Loudspeakers>Scan-speak (Series 4).

[TF1216]

Please keep us posted.  I wish you luck with this frustrating task.

[Carl V]

OT...and just sorta curious.
That was/is a nice design whatcha got planned?
Are you going to reuse the enclosure...or drivers?

I ended up building a similar Design-- Northcreek Rythym (sp?)
I had a smaller SST derivative as well as DIY ACI Jaguar.  Nice drivers.

I have heard many Selah products & own a few.  Good choice.

[jimbop]

Can you get a putty knife under the flange, and slowly work it around to break the seal?

[S Clark]

What about some gentle heat?  Something along the lines of a hairdryer on low setting?

[face]

That reminds me, cold may help.  Placing the cabinets in your basement or air conditioned room may help the wood and metal contract(slightly), and may give you the edge you need.

[WGH]

Screw an oversize wood screw into the speaker flange hole so it grabs only the metal frame and not the wood, then pull on the screw head like you are pulling out a nail.

Put a piece of soft wood between the nail puller and the speaker cabinet so you don't dent the wood.

Wayne

[gitarretyp]

I've used machine screws the size of the driver screw holes in the past and screwed them into the driver frame for added leverage.

What he said.

[poseidonsvoice]

Danny of GR Research said precisely the same thing to use oversized wood screws to remove the driver. Whatever you use, keep us posted. I've wanted to remove the drivers on my Okara II's in order to install some damping material but have been unsuccessful for precisely the same reasons...