[BradJudy]

Nice find Brad, thanks!  I only prefer the Switchcraft because they're copper, which really makes no sense as I love the Neutrik chassis mount rca's 

The Switchcraft are listed as "copper alloy", which I wouldn't be surprised to find is called "brass", but I don't know - they don't give any indication.

[SET Man]

Nice find Brad, thanks!  I only prefer the Switchcraft because they're copper, which really makes no sense as I love the Neutrik chassis mount rca's 

The Switchcraft are listed as "copper alloy", which I wouldn't be surprised to find is called "brass", but I don't know - they don't give any indication.

Hey!

   At that price I wouldn't surprise that is really brass. But alloy mean a mixture of metals right? So maybe they are some copper in there with others.

   But I don't think you could make a pure copper RCA for sale at that price these days

   Anyway, thanks Brad for those finds.

Take care,
Buddy

[Wayner]

I've been making interconnects for awhile now and have finally nailed down the design. The ground is 16 awg magnet wire. the conductor is 22 awg solid copper with Teflon jacket. The jacks are Neutrik NYS373, black color. For under $10 dollars, I have cables that will sound better than Monster Z2's at $199 per meter pair. I just can't stand to listen to any interconnects that aren't made out of solid wire.

Here is a pic:



They work especially good between the amp and preamp for some reason. I use a drill to wrap the 2 conductors together to get about 2 twists per inch. All interconnects are 1 meter long. I don't think you can buy a better RCA jack then the Neutrik for $1.80 each....go to radio shack and see what you can't get for that price, total junk.

Wayner

[chadh]

...I use a drill to wrap the 2 conductors together to get about 2 twists per inch...
Wayner

Wayner,

I had a conversation with Frank Van Alstine at a get together after the Audio Karma show earlier this year.  The conversation turned to cables, for one reason or another, and Frank spent some time trying to get me to understand some drawbacks with some cable designs.  If I recall correctly (and I really hope I do), he was not a fan of braided designs.  The braiding would reduce inductance, but increase capacitance, and Frank saw the higher capacitance as a much bigger deal.  I was just wondering whether simple twisted pair cables like yours have the same problem?  Is this something you've ever discussed with Frank?

Chad

[Wayner]

I know where he stands and, I agree. That is why I keep the twists to a very minimum. Many audio interconnects made with 2 wires have twisted pair in their construction (unless they are coaxial). The other element in my favor is the fact that I keep my cable lenghts short. This will reduce capacitance. The only reason for twist is for neatness. I try to keep the twists to a minimum. I have no other scientific reason for the twist. I may try to find some lightwall plastic tubing to contain the wires, then I wont need to twist them at all. I know Frank has issues with kimber-style cables, so do I. That braid is ridiculous. I made my first cables like this out of need. I just was short of cables one day and this was all I had to make a pair. After I got done, I went wow, pretty nice. So now I have 3 pair of these in my system and I like them.

These cables are doing things right, for the most part, as the imaging is out of sight! There is no high  freq. roll-off. Cymbals sound real and I can hear stereo anywhere in the room. I think it's important to use solid wire construction. It seems to keep the signal from blurring. That is my theory anyway.

Wayner

[chadh]

Thanks Wayner!

Chad

[Doublej]

Wayner,

Am I understanding you correctly?

You are twisting 16 awg magnet wire and 22 awg solid copper with Teflon jacket at two twists per inch and soldering them to Neutrik connectors.

Any magic treatment of the wire ends or special solder?

Where do get your wire from?

I need some more interconnects and this is a recipe I think I can handle.

[Wayner]

I just finished making another pair, this time I didn't twist the wire, but used vinyl electrical tape every 6" and it looks (and sounds) like the other pair without the hassle of twisting the wire (thanks Chad).

To source the magnet wire, go to a local motor rebuilding shop, they will have all kinds. Or, buy a coil bobbin (for speaker cross-overs) from Parts Express or Madisound and unwind the wire (that's what I did). Of course, you have to scrap off about 3/16 of an inch of the coating on the wire before soldering.

To source the solid center conductor (and it's 24 awg BTW, not 22 awg) buy some unshielded cat5 wire and cut it out. I tried Radio Shack wire and didn't like it. I think it may not be a good grade of copper.

The RCA jacks are Neutrik NYS373, black, avalible from Parts Express.

My newest 1 meter cable cost for the pair is about $7.80. They sound real good. The solid wire makes them a little tuff to manage, but the Neutrik connectors have a nice grip. They are of the correct dimensions too as some RCA jacks do not meet specifications on pin diameter and sleeve I.D., which can damage your RCA jack.



Wayner 

[Marbles]

I don't know if you consider these cheap, but it fits your request of: thin, flexible one meter analog single ended...and they don't seem to impart much if any of a signature to the sound in my system.

http://www.sasaudiolabs.com/price1.htm

http://www.sasaudiolabs.com/home.htm

"SAS Audio Labs presents the "V" series audio interconnects. The "V" series are hand constructed using JenaLabs 6n pure, oxygen free, cryogenically treated copper wire and either Vampire all copper/gold plated RCA type or Cardas Rhodium connectors.

The Vampire "V" are neutral while the Cardas "V" are fuller sounding. Both cables feature very low inductance and capacitance, typically 40pf Total for 1 meter length. My audio interconnects feature a 14 day money back guarantee. Available in 1/2, 1, 1 1/2, and 2 meter lengths. "










Highly recommended.