[cunaz]

Hi everyone,

I'm relatively new to kit building having only assembled a few kits to date.  I saw the FryKleaner as an excellent product to further my knowledge and skills.

While assembling the Pro kit, both the parts list and schematics indicate the following parts that I cannot determine were they should be attached:

R54 - 62 ohm resistor
R53 - 510 ohm resistor
R56 - 2k ohm resistor
R51 - 43k ohm resistor
R52 - 510k ohm resistor
C51 - .002uF cap
C52 - .0068uF cap

Neither the original FryKleaner or iRIAA kits indicate these parts.  The schematic found in the Pro document indicates that these are between the two boards, however the .jpg image on the web site contradicts this.

Thanks.

[hagtech]

Yeah, this is my fault.  The original FryKleaner and iRIAA boards were designed as standalone products.  Only later did I realize they could be put together into one box.  And so the Fry Pro was born.

The problem then was two R1's, C1's, etc.  So I added "50" to the numeric values on the iRIAA board.  So C51 really refers to C1 on the iRIAA board.  Parts on FryKleaner board are unchanged.

So maybe I'm not the best technical writer of manuals.  That's ok, I let the circuit boards speak for me.

jh

[cunaz]

I have a few more questions.

1.) I stuffed the RIAA board using the parts listed in the original manual, i.e. the Digikey part numbers.  This should be okay?

2.) How to wire the rotary switch?  I have the Lorlin data sheet to review.  There are three poles, A,B, and C and 4 positions per pole.  I'm not sure how this relates to S,V, H,M and L.

3.) The DC Jack.  According to the data sheet, Pin 1 is the center pin and is positive.  Should both Pin 2 and 3 be grounded together, or only grounding either 2 or 3 sufficient?  Looking at the 'Wiring' diagram, I'm not familiar with the 'square' symbol noted on the DCIN, RCA, and BNC jacks.

Again, sorry for the 'newbie' questions, I'm just getting started in this hobby.  Its really hard trying to learn on your own w/o a mentor.

[hagtech]

1)  Yes, you can use the original iRIAA parts.  Only need to do one channel, if you want.

2)  Use two of the three poles.  It doesn't matter which you pick for what.  Just use whatever is easiest to get your soldering iron onto.  

The wire connections are not drawn, as it would look like spaghetti, so I just used letters.  Connect "S" to the "S" hole in the circuit board and to a pole on the rotary switch.  Then "L" on board to the second position (outer ring) on the switch.  That would be either pin 2, 6,  or 10, depending on which pole you picked, A, B or C.  And so on.

3)  Best to connect grounds to both pins on jack.  Just to make sure.

4)  The squares are just "no connections".

Good luck!

jh

[cunaz]

Thanks Jim.

So that I'm clear on the rotary switch.  Trying to piece together your wiring diagram along with your advice.

Rotary switch has three poles, A,B, and C.  Each pole has four positions, thus:
A - 1,2,3,4
B - 5,6,7,8
C - 9,10,11,12

Therefore, if I decided to use Pole A for 'S' then:
Pole A is wired to 'S' and position 1 is not wired, i.e. 'off', position 2 is 'L', position 3 is 'M', and position 4 is 'H'.  Is this correct?

Then are you saying that one of the other poles, B or C, needs to be wired to V?

[hagtech]

Yes to both questions.

jh

[robertwstephens]

What number do you connect the incoming power to the switch if you are using pole A?

[hagtech]

2-3-4.

jh