[jules]

Given the twin problems of oxidation and physical loosening, would it be useful to use a conductive paste or powder for RCAs, tube bases etc?

Gold plating might be fine but I notice with older plugs that they often get stiff [oxides?] to the extent that it's necessary to use more force than feels right to couple/uncouple them. This can cause stretching.

I sometimes use WD 40 or vaseline for stiff non-audio electrical plugs but neither of these are conductive.

Any suggestions? Carefully applied graphite powder occurs to me as one possibility. Graphite, being carbon and having a reasonable conductivity with great lubricating properties, looks promising.

Am I talking audio sacrilege here  

[Dan Banquer]

I use kosher chicken fat; the enhancements come from a "higher authority".
                d.b.

[Occam]

Aw c'mon Dan, don't be such a peckerhead.....
The man asked a reasonable question for info.

Jules - the only experience I've had is with di-lectric which is a conductive grease for automotive/industrial use. If I could find some (I've not seen it at Strauss for years), I'd try it on my my ac plug, but not on signal connections.  Otherwise, I've no experience with the 'audiophile' spreads.

[Marbles]

Walker Silclear works for me.  Basically it's fine silver specs in a grease type suspension.

[Dan Banquer]

"Aw c'mon Dan, don't be such a peckerhead..... icon_sad.gif
The man asked a reasonable question for info. "

I was trying to be funny, I'll use more of the icons in the future.
               d.b.

[ScottMayo]

Given the twin problems of oxidation and physical loosening, would it be useful to use a conductive paste or powder for RCAs, tube bases etc?

Gold plating might be fine but I notice with older plugs that they often get stiff [oxides?] to the extent that it's necessary to use more force than feels right to couple/uncouple them. This can cause stretching.

I sometimes use WD 40 or vaseline for stiff non-audio electrical plugs but neither of these are conductive. ...

Decent quality RCA plugs don't oxidize, being gold plated. If they aren't gold plated, it's probably best to just replace them; there's no point in fighting a losing battle against metals that are going to oxidize no matter what you do.

My take on RCA plugs is that if they are worn enough to show any physical loosening at all, it's time to replace them. Since any plug will loosen if you connect and disconnect it enough, this argues for using inexpensive ICs. But most systems don't get recabled every day, and a good set of ICs should last for many years.

Oiling an IC would be insane. Worst case, it would form a capacitive film in the circuit. How much that would block low frequency signals I don't know, but filtering is not the job of an IC.

No suggestion for tube bases here; I don't use them. Graphite's not a good choice, though. The resistance is too high, and if it gets loose inside your gear (fine graphite gets everywhere), something bad will eventually happen. I'd consult the gear manufactuer for suggestions.

[_scotty_]

Scott,you have made a wonderful argument against using any Caig products
on audio signal carrying contacts.  You might want to try some empirical testing of the concept before summarily dismissing it as a bad idea.
 I have been using Caig ProGold for years with satisfying results.
Definition:  Dielectric,  A nonconductor of electricity, especially a substance with electrical conductivity of less than a millionth (10-6) of a siemens.
From Dictionary.com  http://dictionary.reference.com/search?q=dielectric
Scotty

[TheChairGuy]

I use and have used the Mapleshad stuff.

Despite some folks telling you that there is a difference between the Mapleshad and Walker stuff...I would think not.  Pierre Sprey (Mapleshade) and Lloyd Walker are partners in the Omega-Mikro line of cables, so it stands to reason that it is the same stuff.  

The Mapleshade stuff is half the price of Walkers...most likely due to the higher markeup Walker likes, and to support dealer distribution of it. Mapleshad's stuff is, unless there is an exception or two out there, sold direct to consumer.

I've used it on tube bases, fuses, IC's, AC plugs, IEC tips, and headshell leads and joints (GREAT effect on tonearm joint where headshell attaches to tube:o ) .  All to good effect.  However, I stopped using it on IC's as it seems to spread unevenly into the inside of the connectors, etc.  It's quite conductive, so I don't want it conducting anything where it ain't wanted.  And, it will if you let it.

Don't confuse it for a good upgrade of a component, but it's pretty helpful to getting you a bit faurther in sonics.  Treble response, in particular, is sharpened to my ears

I haven't noticed ANY spread of the conductive goop on any of the other applications...so it seesm immune to 'running' under high heat (as does automotive conductive grease)  

[ScottMayo]

Scott,you have made a wonderful argument against using any Caig products.

I do that a lot - not specifically about Caig, of course. I'm a real proponent of not trying to outsmart manufacturers, many of whom know what they are doing these days. If you need to tweak, rewire, filter, rebuild, dehex, or retune a new audiophile-grade component, I figure you probably bought the wrong component in the first place. I'm happy to be in the minority on this belief of mine, though.

Some folk adore tweaking. God bless 'em. Me, I dislike gear, and the less I have to mess with it to get it to continue to perform well, the higher I regard it. I know I'm in a good place when I look behind my stereo and decide I better break out the vaccuum, because the dust is getting thick.

This belief of mine is unexciting, it saves a lot of money and frees up a lot of time for music, and it doesn't please a lot of aftermarket manufactuers, but all of that kind of works for me.

Glad you like the sound you're getting. Me, too. That's what it's about.

[Kevin Haskins]

The Caig works great.   I use the Cardas stuff simply because I have it on the shelf.   I've used both and both work well.

The best attribute of these magic chemicals is their lubrication.   Some RCAs fit really tight.   A little magic juice makes them slide on/off easier and you don't end up wresting with the cables to get them on/off.   I've seen some RCAs so tight I was afraid that I'd pull the jacks out of the back of my cheap $50 DVD player.  

I keep a bottle on hand at all times as it works equally well on stepped attenuators and other mechanical connections where you have friction between moving parts.   Just think KY jelly.... same helpful attributes.  

Disclaimer:   I take no responsibility for those who try to use audio lubricants for anything other than their intended application.

[ScottMayo]

I keep a bottle on hand at all times as it works equally well on stepped attenuators and other mechanical connections where you have friction between moving parts. Just think KY jelly.... same helpful attributes.

Disclaimer: I take no responsibility for those who try to use audio lubricants for anything other than their intended application.

I may never see audio components the same way again.

(Well. no. I may never see YOUR components the same way again.   )

[jules]

many thanks for the opinions and the range of products ...

Weighing all your views up, I think I'll use a few judicious smears of one of these products on my tube pins/sockets for several reasons. Firstly,  the pins on tubes seem to be something fairly basic like plated brass and the sockets I use are likewise. This means they aren't quite in the class of 99.999% pure, telurium free copper with a heavy gold plating [this apparently being close to perfection?]. Secondly, I have no desire to ever   replace the tube sockets on my pre-amp as they are soldered directly to the pcb [9 pin] and look like the definition of an impossible desoldering job. Thirdly it's a little hard to tell by feel if one out of nine pins/sockets is getting loose.

All up, it looks worthwhile to give tube sockets/pins a little protection against physical damage and any sort of by-products of electrochemical reactions.

RCA's? I try to avoid them and hard wire where possible but Scott Mayo's advice looks pretty good.

jules