DIY Groneberg IC Questions

Cmarnett · « **on:** 29 Mar 2005, 05:05 am »

I have some extra Groneberg Quattro Reference Cable so I've decided to try my hand at a pair of DIY ICs. Before I get started I have a couple of questions. Should I include the bare center wire with the two black wires for the ground? Also, should anything be done with the braided sheath or just trim it off? I would appreciate any information, thanks.

Eduardo AAVM · « **Reply #1 on:** 29 Mar 2005, 05:59 am »

Shield + central stabilizer bare wires core + blacks to (-) on the grounded side ONLY

Use preferably WBT 0101 or 0144 the other products are a hell to dela with.

Be careful, it is a little bit tricky to deal with this cable.

avalon65 · « **Reply #2 on:** 29 Mar 2005, 12:16 pm »

I would try your luck on PCs first. They are a little easier to make. Do a search in this circle for Groneberg. There was a good discussion on how to make them that included photos.

Cmarnett · « **Reply #3 on:** 29 Mar 2005, 02:01 pm »

I took the barrel off a pair of factory terminated Groneberg ICs and short of desoldering (which I’m not going to do) I can’t see where the braid is incorporated with the other copper wires. All I see is copper soldered to the ground. I’m using WBT 0101s and the shear volume of combining the braid, bare copper wire, and the two black wires makes it nearly impossible to work with. It can be done but not an easy job. I just want to make sure I have the proper ground wire configuration before I begin soldering. By the way I’ve made a couple of Groneberg PCs, they were a piece of cake. Thanks for the input.

Eduardo AAVM · « **Reply #4 on:** 29 Mar 2005, 05:19 pm »

Maybe this help:

This is analog:

This is digital (just one red to pin, the other red goes also with black+mesh+bare wire)

KarlDL · « **Reply #5 on:** 2 Apr 2005, 03:06 am »

The shield (braid) and/or its drain (bare copper) wire should be soldered to the outer conductor at only one of the two ends. It doesn't really matter which one, but convention is to do it at the "load" end. The physical principle behind this is simple - an "equipotential" surface provides an electrostatic shield - and a surface connected at only one end is (arguably, though not purely) "equipotential". I suggest marking the end where the drain wire is soldered in some manner, such as a band of heat-shrink tubing that's not present at the other end.