[MonnieRock]

Hello everyone,

New guy here with a secondhand purchase of a AV123 set.

What is the  recommended RMS of these speakers?
What is the maximum watts to run without damage?
What is the frequency response?
A) X-MTM
B) X-LS
C) X-CS

How does one differentiate the "Classics" vs the "Encores"?

Thank you,
Monnie

[MonnieRock]

Silly me, did not attach the photograph of the speakers in question. Did not see an edit feature for my post so, here they are

Thank you,
Monnie

[mlundy57]

The X-MTM is designed to be -3dB at 40Hz, the X-LS is -3dB at 55Hz, and the X-CS is 70Hz

They can all play lower depending on the amount of room gain there is.

As for how many watts, you can't have too many watts available. The power amp won't deliver any more watts to the speaker than the volume control calls for. An amp doesn't push power, the speaker pulls what it needs.

The danger is not from an over powered amp (I have 600wpc monoblocks feeding 95dB efficient speakers) but from an under powered amp. If the amp is under powered for the speakers, when high volume is called for, the amp starts distorting. If it is asked to deliver more power than it can, the amp will clip. This can blow out drivers.

[MonnieRock]

The X-MTM is designed to be -3dB at 40Hz, the X-LS is -3dB at 55Hz, and the X-CS is 70Hz

They can all play lower depending on the amount of room gain there is.

As for how many watts, you can't have too many watts available. The power amp won't deliver any more watts to the speaker than the volume control calls for. An amp doesn't push power, the speaker pulls what it needs.

The danger is not from an over powered amp (I have 600wpc monoblocks feeding 95dB efficient speakers) but from an under powered amp. If the amp is under powered for the speakers, when high volume is called for, the amp starts distorting. If it is asked to deliver more power than it can, the amp will clip. This can blow out drivers.

Thank you for the quick, detailed response 

The AVR that I am looking at says:
"Rated Output Power (20Hz-20kHz, 2ch driven) 150 W (8 ohms, 0.06% THD)   " 11.2 channel

Crossover options are "40 Hz, 60 Hz, 80 Hz, 90 Hz, 100 Hz, 110 Hz, 120 Hz, 160 Hz, 200 Hz"

My goal is a 7.2.4 setup in the end.

Until Subwoofers are added as well as additional surround speakers ( The journey of piece by piece system building) guesstimate to first try
MTM set to 40Hz in AVR
X-LS set to 60HZ in AVR
X-CS set to 80Hz in AVR

Thank you,
Monnie

[Hobbsmeerkat]

The classics and encores use different tweeters.
The Encores use the current tweeter used in the X-line.
The classics had a tweeter that was similar to the old AV-line

[MonnieRock]

The classics and encores use different tweeters.
The Encores use the current tweeter used in the X-line.
The classics had a tweeter that was similar to the old AV-line

Thank you for the response 

Are there any side by side comparison photographs to show the physical differences to be able to spot them?

Thank you,
Monnie

[HAL]

They look like X-series Encore speakers as the tweeters have the curved face plate, not the flat face plates like the original X-series tweeter drivers.

[MonnieRock]

They look like X-series Encore speakers as the tweeters have the curved face plate, not the flat face plates like the original X-series tweeter drivers.

Thank you HAL !   

See the difference now. Now I know what to look for while looking for more X-MTMs.  Would love to have X-MTMs for Front, Surround, and Surround Back. Use the X-LS for Front/Rear Presence.

Thank you,
Monnie

[mlundy57]

Thank you for the quick, detailed response 

The AVR that I am looking at says:
"Rated Output Power (20Hz-20kHz, 2ch driven) 150 W (8 ohms, 0.06% THD)   " 11.2 channel

Crossover options are "40 Hz, 60 Hz, 80 Hz, 90 Hz, 100 Hz, 110 Hz, 120 Hz, 160 Hz, 200 Hz"

My goal is a 7.2.4 setup in the end.

Until Subwoofers are added as well as additional surround speakers ( The journey of piece by piece system building) guesstimate to first try
MTM set to 40Hz in AVR
X-LS set to 60HZ in AVR
X-CS set to 80Hz in AVR

Thank you,
Monnie

If you don't have a subwoofer in the system, set the X-MTMs to Large/Full Range depending on what your AVR calls that setting. The LS and CS crossover points are OK.

Once you add a subwoofer, then set the X-MTMs to 40Hz.

That AVR should have plenty of power for these speakers. If your AVR has preamp outputs, later on down the road you can add separate power amps on the main channels if you want more headroom.

[tortoiseman2542]

Those are definitely Encores!  Congrats on the find and purchase.  As others mentioned, the tweeter and grills give them away as Encores.  You could buy (assuming budget allows) a lower end Emotiva multi-channel amp and drive them to even better sound than a normal AVR can.  AVR will work fine though.  Congrats!

P.S. if you don't want them and are close to Ohio hit me up.  LOL   


Robert

[hawkeyejw]

Yep, definitely encores you have there. Pretty speakers, nice find. The AV123 cabinets were really beautifully made.

[MonnieRock]

Those are definitely Encores!  Congrats on the find and purchase.  As others mentioned, the tweeter and grills give them away as Encores.  You could buy (assuming budget allows) a lower end Emotiva multi-channel amp and drive them to even better sound than a normal AVR can.  AVR will work fine though.  Congrats!

P.S. if you don't want them and are close to Ohio hit me up.  LOL   


Robert

Robert,
Thank you for the congratulations !  Very pleased with the purchase.

I looked at separates, using a Emotiva as a pre/processor  and then using amps, but they seem to still be HDMI 2.0b.  Are you aware of any pre/processor that are HDMI 2.1?  At least the prospect AVR has pre-out for all 11.2 channels.

Located in Florida, not even setup yet LOL  But I will keep you in mind (that was funny you saying "hit me up")

Yep, definitely encores you have there. Pretty speakers, nice find. The AV123 cabinets were really beautifully made.

Hawkeyejw,
Thank you for the compliments !   

The veneer is not 100%, but perfect for me.  Those Brazilians did a nice job, especially the round outs on all the corners.


Thanks guys 

[tortoiseman2542]

What AVR are you currently looking at? 

Robert

[MonnieRock]

What AVR are you currently looking at? 

Robert

Robert,

Looking at the Yamaha RX-A8A
https://usa.yamaha.com/products/audio_visual/av_receivers_amps/rx-a8a/index.html

Looking like September/October release date, then wait for independent reviews.  Should come with the new HDMI Chipset solving all the issues.

In the meantime, I ordered the Yamaha TSR-700 from Costco, which is the same as the Yamaha RX-V6A, but rebadged for Costco, and $200 cheaper.  $399.99 vs $599.99
Yamaha TSR-700 at Costco https://www.costco.com/yamaha-tsr-700-7.1-channel-network-av-receiver.product.100686465.html
TSR-700 Yamaha site  https://usa.yamaha.com/products/audio_visual/av_receivers_amps/tsr-700/index.html
RX-V6A Yamaha site  https://usa.yamaha.com/products/audio_visual/av_receivers_amps/rx-v6a/index.html

Even though Yamaha's site lists the TSR-700 as 7.1 and the RX-V6A as 7.2, it has been confirmed both are 7.1 with two subwoofer outputs receiving the same signal.

Yamaha has stated that the early models that have HDMI 2.1 with the faulty Panasonic HDMI 2.1 chipsets will receive free of charge a new daughter board this fall.  The TSR-700/RX-V6A models are on the list for the free upgrade.

I ordered the Yamaha TSR-700 from Costco because:
1) I did not have an AVR
2) The Yamaha TSR-700 gets the upgrades
3) Can use the Yamaha TSR-700 until the Yamaha RX-A8A has been released/reviewed
4) If/when the Yamaha RX-A8A is purchased, can sell or use somewhere else the Yamaha TSR-700 being freshly updated.

For detailed information on the first generation Panasonic HDMI 2.1 chipset snafu, check out this thread
https://www.avsforum.com/threads/reliability-of-hdmi-2-1-chips-in-avrs-av-processors-issues-with-video-graphics-and-transition-to-40-48-gbps.3199232/

One might ask, why do you need HDMI 2.1

1) HDMI 2.1 is the current/newest version
2) nVidia 3xxx Ampere series output HDMI 2.1
3) Will be replacing my Television with a HDMI 2.1 version
4) Want to achieve  YCbCr 4:4:4 10bit at greater that 30hz for HDR10
5) I am a Flight Simulator junkie, MSFS 2000 has HDR10
6) Run my PC through the AVR with everything HDMI 2.1, using the Television as the monitor
7) All components will be HDCP 2.3


Thank you,
Monnie

[tortoiseman2542]

Monnie,

Thanks for that info.  I asked because I too run HDMI 2.1.  I have to run a backwards way via ARC for my Xbox Series X to my HDMI 2.1 tv.  I hate it and have been waiting for new receivers to come out that work with 2.1 correctly.  Let me know how you like that receiver from Costco.  I would pick it up too but i need RCA pre outs as I run those to an Emotiva Amp. 

Thanks,
Robert

[MonnieRock]

I hate it and have been waiting for new receivers to come out that work with 2.1 correctly.

I feel your pain Robert, consumers should not be in the field beta testers for these companies.  Specs listed should work out of the box. My opinion on "These are complex integrations that don't always play nice with each other between devices" the companies should do more testing before releasing products to the retail market.

Let me know how you like that receiver from Costco.  I would pick it up too but i need RCA pre outs as I run those to an Emotiva Amp.

 

Will let you know.   Seems the Yamaha RX-A4A which is 7.2 is the lowest in the tier that has all pre outs.

Which pre/processor are you using now to feed your Emotiva Amp?

Speaking of Emotiva, are you aware of any pre/surround processors out there that are HDMI 2.1?  Ideally would prefer separates than an AVR, but all the pre/processors seem to be still HMDI 2.0b (JBL,Tinnov,Emotiva,etc)


Thank you,
Monnie