[Matt Cooney]

In my current setup, I need to stack my BP25 on another component.  The feet of the BP25 don't give enough lift for good clearance over the faceplate of the other component.  Of course, there are various audio products and DIY ways to insert something that adds height, but curious if somebody makes replacement feet for the unit itself. I have seen other components that have oversized, aftermarket feet to replace OEM feet. 

[drummermitchell]

Isoacoustics is good place to look .
Indigo pucks look quite nice and they have others also.

[rollo]

   Lots of footers out there that you would be wasting your money on if you are stacking your gear. Some sort of wood block would suffice. Home Depot. Tennis balls paited black, hockey pucks and so on.


charles

[Matt Cooney]

Yep, this does cry out for DIY....particularly since I fashion myself as an amateur woodworker!  Thanks
Matt

[James Tanner]

Hi Matt

Here is what we use on the large amplifiers - I sometimes just put them under the current feet on the preamp if I want to raise it a bit.






james

[Elizabeth]

I own and LOVE using it as my main preamp always... a Bryston BP 26 and the accompanying power supply.
I have my Brystons up on 1 3/4" thick 22"x16" Walnut shelves (with 4 thin hard 70Duro bits of sorbothane arranged as a trapezoid two front corner, two near center, back) on my metal with glass shelves (cheap) rack However They are also further 'footed' with the preamp having 2 3/4"x3/4" by 5" Brazilian Ebony 'pen blanks, with the 3rd a Cocobolo similar pen blank in center front.. holding the BP-26 directly from Walnut to chassis 3 of them. (the BP-26 also has on top of IT, two Burmese Blackwood pen blanks holding up the phono box of a Threshold FET TEN pair and on top of the phono is again with more wood ((knife scale size Bolivian Rosewood)) FET TEN preamp)
The Bryston preamp Power supply is on a separate 1 3/4" by 22"x16" Walnut butcher block and again has additional 2" by 4x4" bowl blank Bolivian Rosewood blocks under each OEM foot. On top of the Bryston power supply is a Rudistor RPX33 mk2 headamp ..no wood between, I confess I never use headphones much and have NOT worked to find out what would be good under the headamp)

Added.. My Bryston 4B-SST² has under it, bottom butcher block is up on old Tip Toes, Maple 3" by 18"x19" butcher block, on top of that is a Walnut 3" 14"x17" butcher block. (They are separated by very small thin ebony discs in the same trapezoid pattern as the shelving) between the amp OEM feet and the Walnut block is in back a 2"x2" by 12" VeraWood spindle, and in front are a pair of 2" by 4"x4" bowl blanks of Bolivian Rosewood (not a true rosewood)
Again, all this by extensive experimentation with dozens of types shapes and sizes of exotic wood tried when listening to the effect it had on the music...
And YES the dual butcher blocks did make a notable difference over just one.
If you wonder how much time several months of constant listening (usually several days for each change back and forth) and swapping one components bits at a time..
All of the exotic wood is 'raw' no finishing, no surface treatment, I did scrape off the wax casually on touched surfaces, but not off the end grain. A few I did file a bit, but most are as bought from the exotic wood sellers (aside from some removal of wax) ((FYI 2" by 4x4"Katalox wood splits and really goes South if you take the wax off and do not kiln dry or finish it... just to mention))
And sorry to hijack the tread a bit with my getting carried away.. but you ASKED.. I answered in detail.

[rob80b]

Not quite replacing the feet but dense rubber stoppers give a solid foundation, come in different sizes and colors.. used here a few years ago to clear the upper lip on a BHA-1 and add a bit more room between components for better air circulation. Four shown but I prefer to just use 3.


https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00INXX92C/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_9OZoEbC1C4TC1

[Elizabeth]

Not quite replacing the feet but dense rubber stoppers give a solid foundation, come in different sizes and colors.. used here a few years ago to clear the upper lip on a BHA-1 and add a bit more room between components for better air circulation. Four shown but I prefer to just use 3.

I used butyl rubber bottle stoppers for YEARS and years. They work well for $1.50 a pop. I used the size ten.

[Stu Pitt]

I used butyl rubber bottle stoppers for YEARS and years. They work well for $1.50 a pop. I used the size ten.

I’ve used hockey pucks to raise up my gear, primarily my B60. And I’m not Canadian. Go figure, eh?

[CanadianMaestro]

[schmidtmike76]

what kind of feet are those?

[CanadianMaestro]

Hard but flexible rubber pads that can go under regular feet. Seems to improve vibration isolation.

[Stu Pitt]

what kind of feet are those?

Vibrapods. I have some too. I also have vibracones. They work pretty well and are cheap enough.

[zoom25]

Whenever I tried isolation material and/or 'dampeners' on electronic gear, I felt overall the sound somehow got worse. Something improved, but something else get worse. In the end, just stuck with the regular feet placed on my regular rack. Sounds 'fine' and right to my ears. If I were to experiment again with that stuff, I'd only consider something with wideband and even measurable performance. Therefore, something made for scientific purposes, rather than 'hifi'. This is one area where I felt trying things out was like taking a stab in the dark without any rationale.

(Aesthetically, I would love Solid Tech Rack of Silence. They match Bryston really well.)

[Elizabeth]

I decided to try tuning. The notion is not mine. I was Michael Green who has been doing tuning for years. I just took the 'idea' in my own direction. But he deserves the credit.
Take the idea of Violin strings.. no violin, just the strings.. tune them up try to play them, say via a plywood board. Sounds like sh*t no doubt.. Add the interesting box of wood, a TONE device.. and magical sounds from the same strings..
THe bits of wood, in a far more primitive way, does the same for audio equipment.

This is nothing to do with isolation, nor dampening, aside from the odd bits of these qualities inherent in the wood species.

Tuning.. I do have to say it took a lot of work to find the right (or at least good combinations) Particularly the hazard of listening to the same few  pieces of music dozens of times so I could hear the subtle differences.

But the changes and improvements really were worth the effort.
The negative I see is by the time folks all realize this works.. say in ten years..( I will be dead most likely too) is that most of all the exotic wood species will be.. by then ... like Rosewood, banned for sale or international transport. Most of the wood I bought is already on the list of problematic.. just not yet fully endangered.
So if anyone has an interest, I suggest you invest now in some of the wood. Just sayin' my two cents. (on the other side it may be good no one is interested. .since a lot of interest would probably help decimate some of the species

[CanadianMaestro]

Speaker placement is the most inexpensive (zero $) and significant tuning I have done for my listening pleasure. Done right, it pays big time.

[redbook]

 I mass loaded my speaker cabinets with lead shot ...amazed at the improvement in bass tightness.