[Rod]

Hi all,

I've been currently developing a hand built case for my christmas present to myself (GK-1 yippadedoda finally).  However I have stumbled across these cases being sold by the International Audio Group.

http://iagaudio.com/products.asp?id=4

I'm not really into rebuilding the wheel so these seem like the trick for me. What I wanted to know was if anyone has had any experiences with this company?  Planet10 from diyaudio believes they take a while to ship.

Regards
Rod

[EchiDna]

hey there Rod, welcome to the family

nice chassii they have there... but  

$$$

too rich for my blood once I add shipping and the 1.8 times multiplication factor to get into local currency!


I've built my own chassis for each item I've built and although not quite at that appearance standard, I can come close enough with simple tools and a bit of outsourcing - and for a lot less money

[JohnR]

I have the smallest one for a small TVC. Haven't actually used it yet. Horace is a one-man show so you do have to be quite patient...

To be honest, now that I have it it's a bit, um, shiny for my taste...

I'm thinking about some of these for upcoming amp projects:

http://www.par-metal.com/20series.htm

[Lost81]

A little closer to you, Rod:

http://www.designbuildlisten.com/index.htm


-Lost81

[Malcolm Fear]

I buy the black rack cases from Altronics (3RU for my GK-1, 2RU for AKSA 55 and 1RU for my sub pre amp). They cost approx $75 to $100. They go together in about 5 minutes and look better than the shiny stuff you point to.

[Rod]

Thanks everyone for the advice. I have gone for a polished number from IAG. Everyone has a preference I guess, and although I was originally going to go for something a little less garish I have changed my mind. After all the GK will be the crown on equipment rack with it's tubes, so why not make it shiny?

[Rocket]

Hi Lost 81,

Thanks for the link to ezy chassis as i will definitely have a look at buying one of their chassis.

My aksa deserves a better looking chassis.

regards

rod

[Lost81]

Hi Lost 81,

Thanks for the link to ezy chassis as i will definitely have a look at buying one of their chassis.

My aksa deserves a better looking chassis.

Hi Rod,

Glad you like them.

I like them a lot too, but I suspect the price of shipping from New Zealand to North California won't be cost-effective.


Cheers,
-Lost81

[Seano]

Rod
That is kind of the vision I had for my GK-1 chassis but you can bet I won't be spending US$100 plus shipping on the thing. If you get away under US$200 I'll be surprised.

Admittedly, I have the tools and sufficient skills to make something simliar but you don't need much.  Any metalwork shop can fold up the steel (preferred) or ally sheets for top/front and rear base and drill all necessary holes (even I'd get someone to do this - last time it cost me about $40).  Paint, polish or powder coat finish from there (sandblast and powdercoat with one layer of colour another of clear - $40).  Then to a recycled timber yard for a jarrah, kauri or cypress floorboard ($15/m). Cut to length and shape for the sides and finish as required (I like Organoil and timber polish myself). Insert sides into metal case and affix. Job's done.  

Now given all the above.........I'll probably just buy a 2U or 3U rack case and whack on my own jarrah front plate.  I'm just too far from the powdercoater and the local country town metal shop doesn't always work to the tightest tolerances. And it'll fit with the bespoke case I already have on the 100N+.  But, if I was in your position, then I'd definitely have a lunge at it. Don't bother going to the US. Keep it Aussie!

If you must.......that Kiwi stuff pointed out by Lost81 looks the part and is priced pretty well.

[Rod]

Those ezy chassis are a really nice all over solution. In hindsight I would like to have several 60mm and several 120mm for my active system... oh well you learn as you live.

[andyr]

... fold up the steel (preferred) or ally sheets for top/front and rear base and  ...

Sean, my understanding (but only from what I've read, not that I know) is that ally is better than steel for cases because it is non-magnetic.

Any experts out there care to comment?

Regards,

Andy

[Seano]

.....but all rack cases are steel, most consumer electronics cases are steel, most computer boxes are steel.......well some of the above are available in plastic (blimey, don't tell me we are talking Teflon cases:o).

The reason I prefer steel (apart from the fact I have a tin ear) is that it is way way way easier and cheaper to finish than aluminium.  And it's cheaper to buy too. To get anything to stick to ally AND look great you need either need specialist paint, luck and/or a dab hand. Check out powdercoated ally and compare it the powdercoated steel and I'll bet you that the steel looks a 1000% better. Your only real quality finishing option is anodizing, plating or polishing........

But true, aluminium (to my limited knowledge) is not magnetic.

[andyr]

.....but all rack cases are steel, most consumer electronics cases are steel, most computer boxes are steel.......well some of the above are available in plastic (blimey, don't tell me we are talking Teflon cases:o).

The reason I prefer steel (apart from the fact I have a tin ear) is that it is way way way easier and cheaper to finish than aluminium.  And it's cheaper to buy too. To get anything to stick to ally AND look great you need either need specialist paint, luck and/or a dab hand. Check out powde ...

C'mon, mate,

So what if "all rack cases are steel, most consumer electronics cases are steel, most computer boxes are steel ...".  This is because - as you say - it's cheap!  Most consumer electronics boards aren't stuffed with good metal film reses and Black Gate/Nichicon Muse caps for similar cost reasons.

I believe a number of "top-end" hi-fi manufacturer do use ally cases - one I know of is Naim.  And I've had some ally front/back panels powder coated fairly inexpensively and I thought they came out OK.  I've also had 90mm ally tube polished up by a metal polisher (table legs) and that came out roolly special!  ... but it needs constant wipes with a treated cloth to keep its shine!

Regards,

Andy

[jules]

Can I put in a vote for stainless steel here. Some grades are non-magnetic [or damn close to it] and, while I don't like the look of it for a complete case, it can be very useful as a platform. It also needs no paint or powder coating and doesn't rust or throw off its finish in the long term. I might be biased here. I'm currently putting together a [55N+] case using a self designed stainless steel floor [CAD and CNC for design and fabrication respectively] in conjunction with a wooden top section. It is not all that expensive to self design cases in stainless and have them laser cut, particularly if you do 5 or so.

Jules

[andyr]

Can I put in a vote for stainless steel here. Some grades are non-magnetic [or damn close to it] and, while I don't like the look of it for a complete case, it can be very useful as a platform. It also needs no paint or powder coating and doesn't rust or throw off its finish in the long term. I might be biased here. I'm currently putting together a [55N+] case using a self designed stainless steel floor [CAD and CNC for design and fabrication respectively] in conjunction with a wooden top section. It is not ...

Yes, Jules, I think a s/s floorpan or a floorpan/back plate with, say, wooden sides and a 1/2" brushed ally front plate would look sensational.     But that's serious money and effort going into the looks (more than I was prepared to do)!!

Regards,

Andy