[eldarvanyar]

Hi everyone,

I am new to the forum. I live in the UK and have been into music most of my life and enjoyed hifi listening for over 25 years now.

 I have built a couple of hardwood plinths for a Thorens TD160 and am in the process of finishing a Lenco Plinth.

I have a Yamaha YP-800 DD TT that I love which was my first foray into vinyl about 6 years ago. Previously everything else had been digital.

 I was researching the JVC DDs online and came across this forum with a fanbase of the JVCs.

I have just bought a JVC QL-Y5F as spares or repair on ebay which will either be a waste of money or I may get lucky.

It is supposed to work, but there is no headshell or weight for the tonearm and the plinth has seen better days.

I am thinking of building a multi level solid plywood plinth like the Lencos.

Has anyone already done this? Would it be a completely wrong approach? I could build a similar plinth to the existing one out of better materials. I realise there are a lot more electronics to consider.

Any help or advice would be really appreciated.

Pictures of the TT are below.

[eldarvanyar]

I should add that there was no mat either do recommended replacements

Thanks again

Lee

[Russtafarian]

I've done some restoration/mod work on a Technics SL1200 and a couple Denon DP80 turntables.

If the JVC had all the controls built into platter/drive assembly like the Denon "UFO" tables, I'd say go for it.  Building a plinth that would accommodate the platter/drive as well as the front control strip, internal circuit boards and arm assembly might be more trouble than it's worth.

Get it set up first to make sure it works properly and you like the way it sounds and operates.  If you still like it,  think about how you might refinish the current plinth.  If you don't, sell it or give it away to a young vinyl enthusiast.

As for a mat, I've used the Acromat on the Technics and Denon.  In both cases it was a significant step up in sound quality.

Russ

[eldarvanyar]

Thanks for the input.

It arrived today, I have been able to put a plug on and turn it on. The platter spins, and the quartz lock green light is on when I switch it to all the different settings. So I presume that part is working ok.

The arm didn't seem to do anything but maybe thats because it does ont have a weight or headshell on it. I have put an Hitachi headshell on from my Hitachi HT-550 DD but need to source a weight.

Should the arm do things when pressing teh buttons without the weight? It looks like a Technics weight is going to cost about £20 on ebay.

Any advice on repairing the finish where its all chipped?

Thanks again

[eldarvanyar]

One more question,
how do I get the platter off 

[MaxCast]

It might have a sensor that will not let the arm move if there is not a record on the platter.

[neobop]

Thanks for the input.

It arrived today, I have been able to put a plug on and turn it on. The platter spins, and the quartz lock green light is on when I switch it to all the different settings. So I presume that part is working ok.

The arm didn't seem to do anything but maybe thats because it does ont have a weight or headshell on it. I have put an Hitachi headshell on from my Hitachi HT-550 DD but need to source a weight.

Should the arm do things when pressing teh buttons without the weight? It looks like a Technics weight is going to cost about £20 on ebay.

Any advice on repairing the finish where its all chipped?

Thanks again

It's an electronically servo controlled arm.  Hopefully it will function with a cartridge and counterweight.  If not, it might be hard to repair.  Not all arm stubs are the same diameter for the counterweight.  You might have to improvise. 

The platter should pull straight up using those 2 holes to grip.  Sometimes it's hard with an old table or one that's been dropped.  You have to be careful.  It might have a sensor like a tape head (like a Denon or Sony) reading a magnetic strip on the inside edge or underside of the platter.  This is for the quartz locked speed control and it shouldn't be damaged.

Before you make a mistake, in the Vinyl Engine library there's a service manual - free download. 
For body work I recommend auto body putty - polyester resin mixed with a little powered denser material like limestone.  Polyester resin has much better adhesion than most wood repair products, and is easily shaped, sanded and painted. 

These tables also benefit from bracing the inside of the plinth and filling with non hardening modeling clay, leaving a little breathing room for the motor.
Good luck with the arm.
neo

[eldarvanyar]

I ordered a Technical SL120 End Weight which has a 14mm diameter and fits perfectly.





I haven't weighed the End Weight yet but I put it on the arm and fired up the table and the arm moves automatically and responds to the controls, so I think I am in luck.

I am thinking off stripping of the the rosewood laminate and trying my hand at re laminating it.

Some more questions

Are these arms easy to rewire ? What do people recommend?

Do I need to oil the bearing? If so what have people done and used?

Thanks

[S Clark]

Why not cut out the damaged areas and glue something like an ebony insert in its place?  You could do all the corners to make it symmetrical, and it would be a lot easier than re-veneering the whole section.