[jimmyp58]

I should be receiving my SP 1.7 within the next week or so and I am wondering if anyone could chime in with setup tricks to make the process smoother.  You know, the times you had a hiccup then found out there was a better/quicker way to do it.  I've read the manual and it seems very straight forward but ... I am reaching out to my new brethren for a little jump-start.

Thanks....

Jim

[ec]

Ensure you have a tape measure to set the distances from listening postion to speakers.  Just as important if not more important, get a hold of an SPL meter so you can set the proper speaker levels.

[jethro]

I have older gear so this may not apply.

To make it more convenient to connect/disconnect the 12-volt remote turn-on when playing around with gear, I use fully insulated automotive spade connectors (female and male) and 18 g speaker wire. It's a lot easier to pull the spades apart then to loosen the little screw.

If you have a passive sub without a crossover and if you want to use the built-in SP-1.7 test tone to calibrate then be careful. I'm not sure if it is still true but the test tone to the sub out is not low-passed.

If you're changing a lot of settings, then turning the onscreen display (OSD) off may speed up the response to the SP-1.7 's buttons, and the remote's buttons. I say "may" because I have an SPV 1 and this is the case in my setup.

I would make sure that you have lots of ventilation (i.e. 4 or more inches) above the SP-1.7.

[jimmyp58]

Thanks for the tips fellas....

Jim

[ec]

Just thought of some other stuff.

Make sure the SP 1.7 has ample ventilation.  I would say at least 4" on the top, 2" on the sides and open back.  The manual doesn't state this but the unit gets hot.

Use a male to male 3.5 mm (1/8") stereo or mono mini jack if you are using an IR extender like the Xantech stuff (connecting block to SP1.7).  You do not need to connect one of the IR emitters to the front.  The SP 1.7 has an IR input at the back.

[nicolasb]

I found that the SP1.7 remote is a little underpowered - if the front face of the processor is at too oblique an angle to you then it doesn't pick up the signal. I have to use a Philips Pronto instead, or it ignores me.  

The only thing I think is at all tricksy about the SP1.7 is the labelling of the dynamic range compression switch. You might reasonably expect that "MAX" means "maximum amount of dynamic range compression", or that "normal" means "no drc" - but neither of these is actually true. The settings are "late" (maximum drc); "norm" (some drc); and "max" (no drc). So, assuming your amp and speakers can handle it, leave it set to "max".

(I have to say, I don't find the SP1.7 DRC system to be much use. It degrades the sound quality quite detectably, but doesn't reduce the dynamic range enough to make a useful difference, even on the "late" setting. I also have to wonder how many dealers automatically leave it set to "normal" without realising they're compromising the sound...).