[budcook]

I've been working (and spending) for months trying to build an all digital, all Bryston system.  One of the components I've thought about was the BIT power conditioner.  I struggled to make up my mind about whether or not it was worth it.  I even ordered one and then canceled it.

After going so far as replacing my new BP-17 with a new BP-26 I felt it was time to either bite the bullet or forget about it.  I'd been trying to decide if I should get a BIT-8 for my front end components and plug my 4BSST2 with Cardas Clear Power Cable into the wall or buy the 15 and plug the amp into the BIT.

I contacted Cardas to find out if they thought there would be a problem plugging the Cardas cable which has it's own isolation mechanism into the BIT.  I was told it would just reinforce what the BIT did.

So I bought the BIT IS-15 and from the day I got it, I knew there was something wrong.  If I wasn't careful about the volume it would begin to get edgy.  The bass was firm but there was too much of it.  Voices sounded as if they were singing in a cave.  I even switched from balanced to single-ended input on the BP-26 to soften the bass a bit.

I finally tried connecting the amp to the wall with the OEM Bryston cable and that got rid of the problems but also got rid of the things I liked about the Cardas power cable.  I finally went to the trouble of extracting the Cardas from the BIT and plugged it into the wall. Problems solved.

I think the BIT helps the front end components as well as the BHA-1.  I suppose I should try the Bryston cable into the BIT but it's difficult to pull it out and put it back in it's location.  Besides, I like the way things are now.

BTW, my new BP-17 sold quickly and I'm already having some remorse about selling it.  Fortunately, after resolving the problem with the Cardas cable, I can now appreciate the balanced inputs of the BP-26.

Bud

 

[Samurai7595]

I'm no expert in this field but from what I've read, unless you have a dedicated/isolated mains connection(s) (power source) for your audio system, power conditioners will not help much and some of the cheaply/badly build ones will seem to remove noise but at the expense of sacrificing detail in the music.  It may sound great at first but when you really take the time to listen, you will notice loss of detail.

As an example, have a read of the reviewers comments in the Stereophile review of the excellent Audience Adept Response power conditioner.  He mentions (before-last paragraph) "If you haven't yet installed dedicated power, you probably shouldn't be shopping for a $3800 power conditioner. On the other hand, once you've done everything possible to provide your system with clean power, spending $3800 on an AR may be the only way to further improve things."

http://www.stereophile.com/powerlineaccessories/407aud

Some companies like Linn Products are totally against the use of power conditioners on their systems and don't even encourage the replacement of their stock power cords but that's probably due to their Dynamik Switch Mode Power Supplies.

I did some experimenting about 2 years ago with products from Richard Gray and absolutely hated the end results.

Now for the Bryston BIT products, I've never used these so I can't comment...

[budcook]

I'm no expert in this field but from what I've read, unless you have a dedicated/isolated mains connection(s) (power source) for your audio system, power conditioners will not help much and some of the cheaply/badly build ones will seem to remove noise but at the expense of sacrificing detail in the music.  It may sound great at first but when you really take the time to listen, you will notice loss of detail.

As an example, have a read of the reviewers comments in the Stereophile review of the excellent Audience Adept Response power conditioner.  He mentions (before-last paragraph) "If you haven't yet installed dedicated power, you probably shouldn't be shopping for a $3800 power conditioner. On the other hand, once you've done everything possible to provide your system with clean power, spending $3800 on an AR may be the only way to further improve things."

http://www.stereophile.com/powerlineaccessories/407aud

Some companies like Linn Products are totally against the use of power conditioners on their systems and don't even encourage the replacement of their stock power cords but that's probably due to their Dynamik Switch Mode Power Supplies.

I did some experimenting about 2 years ago with products from Richard Gray and absolutely hated the end results.

Now for the Bryston BIT products, I've never used these so I can't comment...

Well, I tend to agree with you.  I really should try using the Bryston power cable plugged into the BIT to see how that sounds.  As it is, I prefer the Cardas plugged into the wall and have no doubt it simply won't work into the BIT.

I prefer the sound of my system with the Cardas over than the OEM cable using the same wall outlet.

So now I've spent an extra $400 over the BIT 5 so that I could plug the amp into the conditioner and other than the it's probably easier to sell a 15 than a 5, there is no other advantage to the 15. 

Next I have to find a way to A/B my Bryston headphone amp with and without the BIT.  That will be difficult if I am to keep all other factors equal.  I can't plug it directly into a wall outlet.

I'll keep at it but frankly, I like the way it sounds right now with the upstream components plugged into the BIT. 

Bud

[budcook]

I connected the amp to the BIT using the OEM Bryston power cable.  I haven't had much time to listen to it but I believe it's going to be terrific.

If it is then I'll sell my Cardas power cable and use the money for something else.

What's clear is that the power conditioning in that cable conflicts with the BIT.

Bud