[neobop]

Hello,

I am considering purchasing a 18x24x3 Maple Platform from Dawns Depot as I am upgrading my VPI Scoutmaster to Super Scoutmaster with Rim Drive.  My current top shelf of my rack is not large enough for the Super Scoutmaster.

Any opinions on these Maple Platforms?? I am currently using a Gingko Cloud 11 which will be too small for the Super Scoutmaster.

I would also like to install some threaded spikes/cones to the bottom of the Maple Platform.  Any suggestions or recommendations as to what spikes/cones would work best? Or maybe something entirely different?

Thanks Much

Tom

You might want to try inverted cones below the platform. They would decouple it from the stand, rather than mass couple. I don't like the idea of using something compliant like rubber.

[TomS]

As I understand it, granite rings/reflects like crazy and provides very little damping. That's the point of draining a TT via spikes/cones into maple, which damps those vibrations very effectively.

Interesting damping data was collected here http://qualia.webs.com/newdampingfactors.htm

[neobop]

Yes, Cat' Squirrel has done some interesting investigation in this area.  One thing he seems to discount is the affect of mass changing vibration to heat. In the case of a tonearm, a properly designed example dissipate most if not all vibration with the counterweight or arm base. But this is an entire table and considerations are somewhat different. The mass of granite could actually increase vibrations on the stand, once put in motion. I think results depend on specifics of the set-up. In this case I'd go with maple and probably use inverted cones. You could try it both inverted and verted.     If you're trying to mass couple, neoprene shock absorbers defeat the purpose. It could work pretty good if the mass of the table is enough to compress the rubber enough to prevent movement. It would be a decoupler though.

[vanderstephen]

Hi. Since you mentioned spikes/ cones, here's a link that I found that has spikes and such for cheaper than I have seen anywhere else. I have not bought from them yet, so I can't vouch for their service.
http://www.oregondv.com/spikes.htm

[mhconley]

Hi. Since you mentioned spikes/ cones, here's a link that I found that has spikes and such for cheaper than I have seen anywhere else. I have not bought from them yet, so I can't vouch for their service.
http://www.oregondv.com/spikes.htm

I can.  Paul also makes and sells Soundocity outriggers; he's a good guy.  I purchased a set of outriggers for my Paradigm Studio 100's that I transplanted onto my Fritz Carbon 7 towers.  They are the exact same spikes sold by Madisound; search for Yung.  On some Madisound is cheaper, on others Paul is.

You don't want to know what the Chinese manufacturer prices them at...  I contacted them about buying direct when I was starting my now defunct rack business.  Unfortunately they have a $3,000 minimum order.

As I understand it, granite rings/reflects like crazy and provides very little damping. That's the point of draining a TT via spikes/cones into maple, which damps those vibrations very effectively.

How about a spiked turntable on a 24" x 36" x 3" maple butcher block on Sorbothane hemispheres on the Enco granite rack?  Just throwin' it out there...

Martin

[WntrMute2]

This set-up is working really well for me.  While granite MAY ring, there is little chance that the micro vibrations from the TT could impart a meaningful amount of energy into the 175 lb. flat granite plate.  I picked it up locally from http://www.pts-tools.com/cgi/CGPTLMXI?PAMODE=*WORK&PMTYPE=KWSEARCH&PMLFNO=03_01_008_011&PMRQNO=000000013700473&PMWORD=GRANITE%20SURFACE%20PLATE  They have a matching stand for the size I bought.  A company called Grizzley also carries and ships when I last checked.

[kbuzz3]

My apologize for reviving a dormant thread but can someone post any referecences or links for how to install threaded inserts on the bottom of the ikea legs and or a maple platform. Im a total doofus and cant seem to find any you tube or other sites for this basic procedure.

I only see referces to tapping a hole.  I do not even know what this means
Do you drill a deep hole? Do you hammer the thread into the leg? I cant even tell what side of the thread is the top or bottom

Thanks

[Big Red Machine]

My apologize for reviving a dormant thread but can someone post any referecences or links for how to install thenthreaded inserts on the bottom of the ikea legs.  Im a total doofus and cant seem to find any you tube or other sites for this basic procedure.

I only see referces to tapping a hole.  I do not even know what this means
Do you drill a deep hole? Do you hammer the thread into the leg? I cant even tell what side of the thread is the top or bottom

Thanks

Are you using something like one of these inserts?

[kbuzz3]

Yes it is something like that

http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/tiptoes/feet/feet-yung-ysc-black-chrome-tiptoe-5/8-tall-m6-t-nut/

Thanks for the reply imhaving trouble loading a pic from an ipad

[Big Red Machine]

Well that T nut is not very secure after installed.  You basically drill a hole about the same diameter as the center part with the thread and tap it in with a hammer.

The ones I showed can be purchased at Home Depot or hardware stores and you drill a hole slightly smaller than the root diameter (base of the threads diameter) so the threads do the cutting.  You put a bolt the correct size and a nut on the bolt into the insert, tighten the nut to the face of the insert using the bolt to do the tightening and then basically screw it into position until the insert is flush with the face of the surface.  Then you loosen the nut with a quick jerk to release the bolt inside and then unscrew those 2 pieces and you are ready to go.

You are putting this into maple?

[Big Red Machine]

I can take a photo of how to do this tomorrow if you need more help.

[kbuzz3]

Big red thanks so much. Acutally i have a bunch of these nuts with matching cones from madisound so i was thinking of installing them on the bottom of my target audio rack, its much like the ikea lack but with out the hollow legs.  I also have a dawns depot maple board but im getting the idea from you that at least with the maple this may not be a good idea

[Letitroll98]

You put a bolt the correct size and a nut on the bolt into the insert, tighten the nut to the face of the insert using the bolt to do the tightening and then basically screw it into position until the insert is flush with the face of the surface.  Then you loosen the nut with a quick jerk to release the bolt inside and then unscrew those 2 pieces and you are ready to go.

It's a little easier to use an allen wrench that fits into the hexagonal flats you can see on your pic there.  No need for any quick jerks.  Quick jerks scare me.   

[Listens2tubes]

With all the meantion of using spikes under a turntable or for that matter any front-end components or amplifiers. Spikes do not work in only one direction. Speakers are spiked to anchor them to the floor. They produce sound the waves causing the vibrations in your floor and componenets. Spikes are funneling vibation to your preamp, amp, turntable, rack, platform, etc. 

[Letitroll98]

With all the meantion of using spikes under a turntable or for that matter any front-end components or amplifiers. Spikes do not work in only one direction. Speakers are spiked to anchor them to the floor. They produce sound the waves causing the vibrations in your floor and componenets. Spikes are funneling vibation to your preamp, amp, turntable, rack, platform, etc. 

Interesting viewpoint, counter to common recommendation, but that doesn't mean it's wrong.  I'm no engineer and am quite willing to learn something new, but I was under the impression that a spike worked as a mechanical diode transmitting energy in a direction, at which point you need a sink to absorb said energy.  Is this wrong, and why?  Thanks for your response.