[chip]

This will be my next step in my N3s/AV1RS build. Looking at some crossover builds looks like they are built in two pieces.
Some examples I found -






In my build that Ruben did he left enough room on the left side behind the woofer for one part of the xover but looking at the above as the best way to build them can I mount the other one on the no rez say behind on the tweeter?

[hotjt133]

I think the placement options of the x-over board in the N3 enclosure is very limited. First of all, the board can't be larger than the speaker hole. The biggest inductor has about 8cm diameter, so I'm forced to split into two boards. Secondly, due to weight, it's better lie down on the horizontal surface. In my N3TL enclosure, the only place to put them is on top of the two brace boards. Thirdly, I have to think the placement of the 3 inductors in a 3D sense.

This is what I ended up with the placement. Anyone see if there're any problems?

[Danny Richie]

There is no problem with splitting them up and mounting them on the braces. I have done that many times. Now I just mount it all on a small piece of MDF and screw it to the rear wall right behind the lower woofer.

[hotjt133]

There is no problem with splitting them up and mounting them on the braces. I have done that many times. Now I just mount it all on a small piece of MDF and screw it to the rear wall right behind the lower woofer.

If you screw the small board on the rear wall, do you need to cut the area of no-rez out? I'd prefer to have a complete piece of damping material.

[Danny Richie]

If you screw the small board on the rear wall, do you need to cut the area of no-rez out? I'd prefer to have a complete piece of damping material.

You need to solidly mount the crossover. And the mass of the crossover itself will help damp that panel just like the No Rez would.

[chip]

Recommendations on the following - I broke the ends off one of the smaller red coils after I got everything mounted on the board. Do I need a new coil or can I solder the broken piece to the coil?

HELP>

[S Clark]

If you have enough left to solder to, simply scrape the varnish off the wire to get clean copper and re-solder.  If there isn't enough wire left, you will need to unravel a bit of the coil. The effect on the mH value will be negligible. 

[chip]

Basically the piece is long enough but I need to know if I can solder it red to red....the clean copper part is still available for use. I just want to know if I can solder red to red and it will have no ill effect.

[Danny Richie]

You have to scrap off the Red varnish.

[chip]

So I can't solder red to red?

So I need to scrape off the red on the coil and red on the broken piece then solder together?

[RAW]

You have to scrap off the Red varnish.

Like Danny said the coatings used on the inductors will not make a connection or very week connection if you do solder then and get the inductor HOT enough to melt the coating.Which may reach a temp so hot it will damage a capacitor.

I just personally scratch every inductor to make the best connection.You will find almost every inductor has some kind of coating thin or thick to prevent oxidation till this inductor gets used by the end user.

Now separate crossover boards. Personally I like this choice as I learned several years ago.If say a few months after you order a GR kit you would like to add Sonicaps to the tweeter crossover.(simple just remove the tweeter crossover)
Then say another few months you get some coin.Now you would like to put in Mills resistors with Platinum bypass caps.(simple just remove the tweeter crossover)

By doing the crossovers for 2-3 ways separately it gives easy flexibility for upgrading each crossover network later down the road very easy.