[jparkhur]

Ok, I have got the bug from everyone and started cutting my N3S sides with this new router bit.  I will allow me to glue and drop in every side and then leave the back as a drop in plate to have easy access to parts.  Has anyone used this or other types that worked out well.  Any response is appreciated.

[mcgsxr]

I own one of those bits (lock mitre bit I think they are called), but have yet to grow the stones to use it!

I have just done butt joints for subwoofer builds in the past, and found them fine.

I bought the bit a few years ago, as Totem speakers are built this way, but have not again since built cabinets - I run OB speakers

[jparkhur]

Thanks,  I am using Baltic Birch, so far no tear outs, and so far no screw ups...  I'll thread the final project later.  I still have yet to order the drivers from Danny.  Just want to make sure my cabinet is great before I go further..

JP

[Peter J]

This is  floor stander, right?  Lock miters are a strong way to build cabinets, but this may be difficult, if not impossible, to get the precision needed for a slide-in back that long. What do you intend on removable top/bottom so back can be slipped up/down. I'd also be concerned about the panel rattling, if I made joints loose enough to easily slide. Is it a sealed system?

I admire your creativity, but it really looks like reinventing the wheel to me. If you gotta have access other than driver holes, why not a screw-on panel on back? And if you're gonna be tweeking a bunch, perhaps a outboard crossover.

FWIW, I've attached a pic of back panel of a speaker I built... was sure I'd wanna have access so I meticulously put in machine screws with t-nuts. In seven or so years I've had them off exactly.....never.

[jparkhur]

Thanks Peter,

I am gong to leave the bottom as a drop in plate. So far so good.  I have all the 7 sides done and am making the internal bracing out of mdf for cost savings.  The bottom panel will sit on some internal strapping of extra wood.  I plan on over glueing all joints, so I hope no rattle.  So far so good...
JP

[Voncarlos]

We want pics! Please.

[jparkhur]

V,

Pics will come.  Still have to get cabs done and get supplies from Danny.  I will do them all at once so no one has to keep coming back.  JP

[django11]

One bit makes both profiles?Are you just using the bit with a handheld router or using a router table?  Can you make the profile in one pass?

[jparkhur]

One bit, both profiles.  One is horizontal, the other vertical..a and b sides meet.  Small router table and started making two passes to avoid any tear out.  All sides done and a dry fit worked, toying with the bottom and how to put in x over neatly. 

[roymail]

Cool, I love watching others try stuff like this.  I'm looking forward to your picture thread.

PeterJ, I like that rear access plate on your speakers.  My next build will be similar to that.  Are the straws in the port for an aperiodic effect?  How well does that work?

Thanks!

[toxteth ogrady]

Be extra careful with the vertical cut when using the lock miter bit. That's the biggest challenge with these bits so practice on some scrap before you cut the good stuff. The slightest movement and your joint is ruined.

[jparkhur]

Did and done..figured it out the hard way.  This is why I started making two passes on the vertical cut.  Also figured out I had to have the bit perfectly centered when mounting..  Jp

[toxteth ogrady]

Only two passes and no tear out with the 3/4" baltic birch? Either I've got a crappy bit or I need to find a new source for baltic birch.

[RAW]

All the best of luck with the lock bit.Once figured out you can grow to like the process.
With the bit yes the sharper the better, I have tried all of them and the Whiteside was my personal choice.
Now the baltic birch I am not sure you will get it to work sorry!The reason is the bit needs to stay clean and clear while cutting and with the amount of different angles in the bit these bits can not cut baltic or any other plywood without tear out.

I even had twin 4" dust ports on my router table.One direct under the router and one dust port around the bit area.Even with these I had tear out. Not with MDF though.
We made well over 100 cabinets mostly sub cabinets this way, all sold as flat pack kits.Man what a pain to package to prevent damage to the edges....

Here is a slide show showing some sub cabinets with the lock bit plus other cabinet we did with the bit, as small as 8"X8"X8" and yes I still have all my fingers
http://www.flickr.com/photos/28279019@N05/sets/72157624734998378/show/

[Peter J]

Cool, I love watching others try stuff like this.  I'm looking forward to your picture thread.

PeterJ, I like that rear access plate on your speakers.  My next build will be similar to that.  Are the straws in the port for an aperiodic effect?  How well does that work?

Thanks!

When I built 'em and that's what designer called for, so I did it  It's a bundle of straws that can slide back and forth to micro-tune port length, if I'm not mistaken. I think I recall a reference to laminar air flow as well. To be honest, I can tell little difference, and haven't moved them in a while, as evidenced by the dust in the port! Mind you, I'm the cabinet builder and listener, I leave the design to others who are better at it.

[Danny Richie]

Hey Al,

Good to see you around again. I hope you are doing well.

[MarvinTheMartian]

I found these setup instruction very useful ... Shawn
http://www.leevalley.com/en/shopping/Instructions.aspx?p=51601