[dlipter]

I haven't built any cabinets for a few decades.
Back then I used screw & glue butt joints.
I guess nowadays the screw part is not used.

I'm looking for some guidance as to the sequence of glueing and clamping the top, bottom, sides, and internal bracing. Is it done in stages or all at once?

Thanks,

dlipter

[sl_1800]

I have not built the N3 but from looking at the plans and from other projects I would  glue one side to the top and bottom and then, before the glue sets, add on the back.  This will help with keeping the joint of the side and back at true 90 degrees.  Since I don't have all that many clamps, I would let that dry then add in the braces and then the other side.  This is now the time to add the damping material and last clamp on the front.  I hope that makes sense and maybe someone else will chime in here.

[Danny Richie]

I use Elmers wood glue and a finishing nail gun. It goes pretty fast that way.

Assemble the sides/back/top and bottom, leaving the front last. You can then install all of the No Rez (or at least all of it in the lower section) before you put the front baffle on.

[dlipter]

Danny,

What gauge nails do you recommend?

I'll be painting my boxes....so the smaller size nails I think would be better.

16, 18.......22 gauge?

Thanks,

dlipter

[EARGASM]

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[djdube525]

Any recommendations on "treating" the MDF? ie Do you recommend a primer? Oil based? Something like Kilz? What about the edges of the MDF... should they be treated?

In some crazy way, I was thinking of needing to put a thin layer of bondo... but thought that had to be crazy overkill.

[dlipter]

Hey,
Use what you've got for your gun.


I don't have a gun...that's why I asked. I guess from your response that the thinner 22 guage nails are less likely to cause problems with splitting.

Question...The nails are to stablize the wood while clamping, keeping the pieces lined up?

[Danny Richie]

My gun shoots 16 gauge and works fine.

[EARGASM]

Removed by member.