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"I built one of the UCD-400 2-channel kits and have loved it. I think even the assembled units will be an incredible value and much easier for Kevin to support. I was recently auditioning speakers and brought in this amp to see how it sounded with some different speakers I was interested in. I was able to compare this amp to McIntosh MC-501s in the same system driving the same speakers and I came away with a slight preference for the Exodus amp! I was really thinking the 501s would outclass the UCD-400s but this was definitely NOT the case. For those of you not up on all the McIntosh details, these are 500 watt 100lbs monoblocks that (with the new price increase) are over $11k for the pair.Your results may vary, but I think that these amps are an incredible value and I recommend them wholeheartedly."
Is it wrong to want to sell my car and use a pair of these as subwoofer amps... ?
Wow, and me with no extra money.
Just kidding you David....are you still in Texas doing your thankless job?
Can any owners of these UcD700 amplifiers comment on how they sound, particularly with respect to other "digital" amps. I have listened to both ICE-based (EVS 500M) and Nuforce (Ref 9SEV2) in my system, but never a UcD-based amp.Thanks!
Quote from: kwl on 1 Jun 2009, 06:54 pmCan any owners of these UcD700 amplifiers comment on how they sound, particularly with respect to other "digital" amps. I have listened to both ICE-based (EVS 500M) and Nuforce (Ref 9SEV2) in my system, but never a UcD-based amp.Thanks!I doubt your going to get an answer because I've only sold a handful of the UcD700 builds. There are many many many more of the UcD400 builds out there. They have a family resemblance, but the UcD700s are definitely a notch up the food chain. For most of my customers, the UcD700 was too expensive or at least the customers willing to drop $3.5K (typical price) wanted something that was a more recognizable brand (Krell, Ayre, Rowland etc..).I'm migrating over to a couple things that I think will help me compete better with the big-boys. For one, I'm planning on having a 45-day trial with some minimal expenses if they don't work in your system. System synergy is a big part of the game and the only way people are going to know what is going to work for them, is if they try it in their system. One of the ways I'm doing that, is that I'll have a more standardized model line with fewer options which allows me to get product back, test it, repackage it and put it back into inventory. Second, I'm significantly updating my chassis work. I bought a new CNC mill, CNC lathe, vibratory tumber and finishing gear and I'm in the process of building my own anodizing line. I'm basically designing a small-scale production line for high-quality aluminum chassis work. These will ship in ultra high quality packaging (small crates). They will be Made in America but pricing will still be very attractive. Third, I'm designing my own input stage, while using the Hypex output stage with the new Hypex developed SMPS power supplies which are superb. This allows me to keep the signal path ultra-short with the inputs/outputs all right on the rear panel. The SMPS will be separated within the same chassis by an 1/2" thick piece of aluminum plate. This all is ultra-efficient, with a >90% efficient SMPS, amplifier module, and control capability to put it in standby with very low energy consumption. I've tried to keep the design as "green" as possible with low energy consumption, and the chassis design will be 100% upgradeable for any possible future updates. When it eventually would reach the end of it's usable life (should be decades) the chassis would be 100% recyclable at your nearest aluminum depot. It is about 8-9lbs of aluminum per mono-block so that is a lot of beer cans. Fourth, I have both 110V/220V operation so they can be sold overseas which is something I've refused to do with the existing designs due to the difficulty of supporting overseas customers. These are much less weight so International shipping should be much easier and less painful. Changing a unit from 110V --> 220V is simply a matter of changing a jumper.
Kevin,Any prelim pics for the new chassis...